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Maytag MFC2061KES refrigerator

Maytag MFC2061KES refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag MFC2061KES refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for MFC2061KES Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Crisper Drawer for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WP67002659

    Crisper assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Crisper Drawer

    Part #67002659

    Replaced by #WP67002659

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Fill Cup for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WP628356

    Ice maker diagram

    Refrigerator Ice Maker Fill Cup

    Part #95100-1

    Replaced by #WP628356

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Shut-off Arm for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WP67004028

    Ice maker diagram

    Refrigerator Ice Maker Shut-off Arm

    Part #67004028

    Replaced by #WP67004028

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  • Refrigerator Door Handle Mounting Stud for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WP67006113

    Handles (mfc2061kes) diagram

    Refrigerator Door Handle Mounting Stud

    Part #67006113

    Replaced by #WP67006113

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part 67006425

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #67006425
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  • Refrigerator Screw for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part 67006425

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #67006400

    Replaced by #67006425

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WP489349

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #67006303

    Replaced by #WP489349

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  • Refrigerator Dispenser Switch for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WP12575501

    Water dispenser/water tank/water filter diagram

    Refrigerator Limit Switch

    Part #12575501

    Replaced by #WP12575501

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  • Refrigerator Freezer Door Bracket for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part WPW10330993

    Interior cabinet/toe grille/frz shelves diagram

    Bracket, Dra

    Part #67004733

    Replaced by #WPW10330993

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Installation Kit for Maytag MFC2061KES - Part 8003RP

    Ice maker diagram

    Refrigerator Installation Kit

    Part #R0131235

    Replaced by #8003RP

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Maytag Refrigerator MFC2061KES FAQs

On Maytag model MFC2061KES, you lower the front by removing the toe grille and turning the front adjustment screws (A) with a hex-head driver to drop the front of the refrigerator. Then set the stabilizing legs so the cabinet sits solidly and the doors close properly; see the owner's manual.

How to lower the front (leveling procedure)

  • Unplug the refrigerator if you will be working near wiring or moving it.
  • Remove the toe grille (grasp firmly and pull outward to unclip).
  • Use a hex-head driver to turn the front adjustment screws (A) on both sides:
    • Turn to lower the front (make small, even adjustments side-to-side).
    • Recheck after each few turns.
  • Adjust the rear adjustment screws (B) if your model has them (used to raise or lower the rear).
  • Set the stabilizing legs (C) clockwise until they are firmly against the floor.
  • Turn the front adjustment screws (A) counterclockwise until the refrigerator’s weight rests on the stabilizing legs.

Target level and what to look for

The manual’s goal is a refrigerator that is level side-to-side and slightly higher in front so doors self-close.

Check What “good” looks like Why it matters
Front-to-back tilt Front about 1/4 inch (6 mm) higher than the back Helps doors close and reduces warm-air leaks
Side-to-side level Bubble centered Prevents uneven door gaps and drawer binding
Cabinet stability No rocking after legs are set Reduces noise and vibration

Why it matters

If the wheels are carrying the full weight, the refrigerator can roll, rock, and leave door gaskets slightly unsealed. Leveling and setting the stabilizing legs improves cooling performance, reduces moisture issues, and helps the doors close consistently.

Last updated: January 2026

A bottom-freezer refrigerator like the Maytag MFC2061KES typically lasts 15 to 20 years with normal household use. Regular maintenance (good airflow, clean seals, and stable temperatures) helps the compressor and cooling system run efficiently and reach that lifespan.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

Most bottom-mount (bottom-freezer) refrigerators land in this range because they use additional components (fans, defrost system, controls) that can need service over time.

  • 15 to 20 years is the typical life expectancy
  • Heavy use, hot kitchens, and poor airflow can shorten life
  • Keeping door seals tight and coils clean reduces run time
  • Stable freezer temperature helps overall performance
  • Timely repairs of small issues can prevent bigger failures

Quick reference: what “normal” looks like

Item Typical target Why it matters
Expected service life 15 to 20 years Common range for bottom-freezer designs
Freezer temperature About 0°F (-17°C) Helps food stay frozen and reduces compressor strain
Freezer fill level About 2/3 full Improves efficiency and temperature stability

(Temperature and efficiency tips are covered in the MFC2061KES owner’s manual.)

Maintenance that helps you reach 15 to 20 years

  • Keep vents inside the fresh-food section and freezer unblocked for airflow
  • Clean and inspect door gaskets; replace if torn or not sealing (common cause of long run times)
  • Avoid overloading with warm food; it forces longer cooling cycles
  • Keep the freezer reasonably full (around two-thirds full) for better efficiency
  • Address cooling noises early; an evaporator fan issue can snowball into temperature problems

Why it matters

A refrigerator’s most expensive wear items are in the sealed cooling system (compressor and related components). When airflow is restricted or doors leak, the unit runs longer, which increases heat and wear. Good habits reduce run time and extend the useful life.

Last updated: January 2026

A bottom-mount refrigerator like Maytag MFC2061KES is better when you want fresh-food items at eye level and easier access to everyday groceries; a top-mount is often better when you want the simplest layout and typically lower purchase cost. “Better” depends on how you shop and use the freezer.

Quick comparison

Feature Bottom-mount (freezer on bottom) Top-mount (freezer on top)
Fresh-food access Best for daily use (less bending) More bending for fridge items
Freezer access More bending; often drawers/baskets Easier reach to freezer shelves
Organization Usually more pull-out storage Usually simpler, fewer drawers
Efficiency Varies by model and usage Often very efficient for the price

What we see most customers prefer

  • Choose bottom-mount if you use the refrigerator section most and want better ergonomics.
  • Choose top-mount if you want a straightforward design and strong value.
  • If you store lots of frozen food, a top-mount can feel more convenient day to day.
  • If you meal-prep and use fresh ingredients often, bottom-mount access is usually the win.

Why it matters

Your choice affects daily comfort and food quality. Bottom-mount designs keep the fresh-food compartment more accessible, which helps you avoid leaving doors open while searching. Regardless of style, good airflow and proper clearances help performance; our MFC2061KES owner's manual covers measuring the opening and recommended spacing for air circulation.

Tips to get the best performance from either style

  • Avoid overcrowding shelves; blocked airflow makes the refrigerator run longer.
  • Let hot foods cool before loading them.
  • Keep doors sealing tightly and level the cabinet if doors swing open.
  • Place the refrigerator away from heat sources and direct sunlight.
  • Maintain the recommended clearances around the cabinet for ventilation.

Last updated: January 2026

The most common Maytag refrigerator problem is a cooling issue (not cold enough, warm freezer, or running constantly). On the Maytag MFC2061KES, the most frequent root causes are airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, a weak evaporator fan, or a door seal that is not closing tightly; ice maker and water flow issues are also common.

Quick checks we recommend first

  • Confirm temperature settings in the MFC2061KES owner's manual.
  • Make sure air vents inside the fresh food and freezer sections are not blocked by food packages.
  • Clean condenser coils and the area around the condenser fan (dust buildup is a top cause of poor cooling).
  • Check door gaskets for gaps, tears, or areas that do not “grab” the cabinet.
  • If you hear a clicking start attempt or the compressor struggles to start, inspect the start components.

Common symptoms and the most likely causes

Symptom Most likely cause Parts often involved
Fresh food warm, freezer OK Airflow/damper issue Refrigerator electronic damper WPW10196393
Freezer warm, fresh food warm Evaporator fan not moving air Evaporator motor WPW10128551, refrigerator evaporator fan blade WP2169142
Frost buildup, weak airflow Defrost system problem Refrigerator defrost heater WP67002493, refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat WP67003426
Ice maker not making ice Water supply or ice maker issue Refrigerator ice maker D7824706Q, refrigerator water inlet valve assembly WP67006531

Why it matters

Cooling problems usually get worse over time; the refrigerator can run longer, temperatures drift, and food quality suffers. Catching airflow, gasket, and coil issues early often prevents bigger repairs like compressor or sealed-system work.

When a repair is more likely than a cleaning

  • The evaporator fan is not running when the door switch is held closed.
  • You see heavy frost on the freezer back wall and airflow is weak.
  • The compressor clicks repeatedly and does not stay running.
  • Door gaskets look good, coils are clean, but temperatures still will not stabilize.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

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Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

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 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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