Installation guide
Owner’s manual
Error Codes
How can I tell how many cubic feet my Whirlpool refrigerator is?
Your Whirlpool WRS325FDAW01 refrigerator’s cubic feet (capacity) is the total usable interior volume of the fresh food and freezer sections combined. The most accurate way is to look up the listed capacity for your exact model in the WRS325FDAW01 owner's manual; measuring the interior gives a close estimate.
- Check the model’s listed capacity in the WRS325FDAW01 owner's manual (best for an exact number).
- Measure and calculate the interior volume (good estimate).
- Compare by style: side-by-side refrigerators like WRS325FDAW01 commonly fall in a mid-to-large capacity range.
- Empty enough space to measure the fresh food section.
- Measure height x width x depth in inches (measure usable space, not the door bins).
- Multiply to get cubic inches.
- Divide by 1,728 to convert cubic inches to cubic feet.
- Repeat for the freezer section and add the two results.
- Cubic feet = (H x W x D) ÷ 1,728
- Measure inside wall to inside wall.
- Measure depth to the back wall, not to the front of shelves.
- Exclude space taken up by fixed components (like the ice maker housing) if you want “usable” space.
| What you’re calculating | What it represents | Why it can be different |
|---|---|---|
| Measured cubic feet | Approx. interior volume you can access | Shelves, bins, and housings reduce usable space |
| Listed capacity | Standardized model capacity rating | Uses manufacturer measurement conventions |
Knowing cubic feet helps us match the right refrigerator parts and accessories for your Whirlpool WRS325FDAW01, and it also helps when planning food storage, shelf organization, and airflow clearance.
Last updated: February 2026
What is the most common problem with whirlpool refrigerators?
The most common Whirlpool refrigerator problems are cooling performance issues and ice maker or water dispenser troubles. On the Whirlpool WRS325FDAW01, these symptoms are usually tied to airflow restrictions (dirty condenser coils or blocked vents), door sealing problems, or water supply and filtration issues; our owner's manual troubleshooting section helps you narrow it down fast.
- Fridge or freezer too warm: restricted airflow, dirty condenser coils, or a defrost problem
- Ice maker not making ice: water supply off, clogged filter, or ice maker issue
- Water tastes bad or flow is slow: clogged water filter
- Water puddles under the unit: defrost drain issue or door not sealing well
- Noisy operation: many sounds are normal as the compressor and fans adjust during operation
- Confirm the refrigerator is plugged into a grounded 3-prong outlet (no extension cord).
- Make sure cooling is turned on and allow 24 hours after installation or a power outage for full cooling.
- Check that air vents inside both compartments are not blocked by food packages.
- If the unit is connected to water, verify the shutoff valve is fully open.
- If water flow is weak or ice production is poor, replace the refrigerator water filter EDR1RXD1.
| Problem you notice | Most likely cause | Best next step |
|---|---|---|
| Too warm | Airflow or defrost issue | Clear vents; clean coils; watch for frost buildup |
| Ice maker not working | Water supply or ice maker issue | Check valve; replace filter; inspect ice maker |
| Slow water dispenser | Clogged filter | Replace filter; purge air from lines |
| Buzzing or clicking | Water valve cycling | Normal when connected to water |
Cooling and ice maker complaints often share the same root causes: restricted airflow makes temperatures drift, and restricted water flow reduces ice production and dispenser performance. Fixing the basics first prevents unnecessary part replacement.
Last updated: February 2026
Why is my Whirlpool side-by-side refrigerator not making ice but water works?
If your Whirlpool WRS325FDAW01 dispenses water but won’t make ice, the most common causes are the ice maker being turned off, the freezer not cold enough, or restricted water flow to the ice maker. Start by confirming the ice maker is ON and allow 24 to 72 hours after changes for normal production.
- Make sure the ice maker is turned ON (raise/lower the wire shutoff arm or use the ON/OFF switch, depending on your unit); see the installation guide.
- Confirm the freezer temperature is set cold enough for ice production (typical target is around 0°F).
- Verify the household water shutoff valve is fully open.
- Inspect the water supply line for kinks that can reduce flow.
- If this is a new install or the water line was recently reconnected, flush the water system and discard the first three batches of ice.
When the dispenser works but the ice maker doesn’t, we focus on issues that affect the ice maker circuit specifically (fill tube, ice maker module, or marginal water flow that still seems “OK” at the dispenser).
| Symptom | Most likely cause | What to do next |
|---|---|---|
| No ice at all | Ice maker OFF or bin not seated | Turn ice maker ON; reseat bin |
| Small or hollow cubes | Low water flow or kinked line | Straighten line; confirm shutoff valve fully open |
| Ice production slow after changes | Normal recovery time | Wait 24 hours; up to 72 hours for full output |
| Ice maker cycles poorly or stops | Ice maker assembly issue | Consider replacing refrigerator ice maker assembly WPW10300022 |
- Refrigerator water filter EDR1RXD1 if flow is restricted (a clogged filter can reduce fill to the ice maker).
- Refrigerator ice maker assembly WPW10300022 if the ice maker won’t cycle or won’t harvest ice.
Ice makers need three things at the same time: a cold freezer, steady water pressure, and an enabled ice maker. If any one is off, you can still get drinking water at the dispenser but end up with no ice or hollow cubes.
Last updated: February 2026
