Is top mounted refrigerator better than bottom mounted?
A top-mount refrigerator is usually better if you want lower cost and slightly better energy efficiency; a bottom-mount (like Kenmore 59675513400) is usually better if you want fresh-food items at eye level and easier day-to-day access. Your “better” choice depends on how you use the refrigerator.
| Feature | Top-mount (freezer on top) | Bottom-mount (freezer on bottom) |
|---|---|---|
| Everyday access | Freezer is easiest to reach | Fresh food is easiest to reach |
| Organization | Simpler layout | Often better fresh-food organization |
| Energy use | Often slightly lower | Often slightly higher |
| Price | Usually lower | Usually higher |
| Ergonomics | More bending for fresh food | More bending for freezer |
- Choose top-mount if you use the freezer a lot, want a simpler layout, and want the best value.
- Choose bottom-mount if you use the refrigerator section most, want less bending for fresh-food access, and prefer wider shelves and bins.
- If you cook often, bottom-mount layouts typically make daily meal prep easier because the most-used items are at eye level.
This model is designed for indoor household use and needs proper airflow clearance for reliable cooling. When installing, allow about 1/2 inch space at the top and 1/2 inch behind the rear cover area for air circulation, and level the cabinet so the front is slightly higher than the back (per the 59675513400 owner's manual).
The “best” style is the one that matches your habits. Door openings, leveling, and airflow clearances affect temperature stability, frost buildup risk, and how hard the compressor has to work over time.
Last updated: January 2026
What is the bottom part of a refrigerator called?
On Kenmore refrigerator model 59675513400, the “bottom part” is most often the machine compartment area, which houses major cooling components (like the compressor and condenser system). The removable front trim at floor level is commonly called the toe grille.
Depending on what you’re pointing to, the bottom area can be called different things:
- Toe grille: the front kick plate you pull off during leveling and service access
- Machine compartment: the rear lower area where the cooling system components sit
- Compressor compartment: another common name for the machine compartment area
- Drain pan area: the space where the drain pan sits to evaporate defrost water
- Bottom hinge cover: small cover(s) near the lower door hinge area
The lower section is where heat is rejected and the sealed system does its work. If airflow is blocked or parts fail, you can see warm temperatures, long run times, or unusual noises.
| What you see | Common name | What it’s for |
|---|---|---|
| Front panel at floor level | Toe grille | Access for cleaning, leveling, and service |
| Rear lower cover area | Machine compartment cover | Protects components and guides airflow |
| Lower rear “motor” area | Compressor area | Circulates refrigerant to cool the refrigerator |
Our manual for this Kenmore bottom-freezer design calls out clearance behind the machine compartment cover for airflow, and it also describes removing the toe grille as an early step in the leveling procedure. For the exact locations and removal steps, use the 59675513400 owner's manual.
- Make sure the toe grille is fully clipped back in place after cleaning or leveling
- Keep the rear lower area clear for airflow (dust buildup can raise temperatures)
- If you hear a new buzzing or clicking from the bottom rear, the compressor start components may be involved
- If you see water under the unit, check for a shifted drain pan or a defrost drain issue
Knowing the correct name helps you find the right diagram, instructions, and replacement parts (for example, toe grille removal is part of proper leveling and door alignment).
Last updated: January 2026
Why is my Kenmore refrigerator leaking underneath?
Water leaking underneath a Kenmore 59675513400 bottom-mount refrigerator is usually caused by a defrost drain problem (clogged or frozen), a drain pan issue, or a leak in the ice maker or water supply connection. We recommend checking the drain path first, then inspecting the water line and fittings.
- Unplug the refrigerator before inspecting internal components (per the 59675513400 owner's manual).
- Look for ice or standing water on the freezer floor or under the crisper area (often points to a defrost drain restriction).
- Check the drain pan underneath for cracks, misalignment, or overflow.
- Inspect the water supply line and fittings at the back for drips.
- If you have an ice maker, check the fill tube and connections near the refrigerator ice maker D7824706Q.
During defrost, meltwater should flow through a drain tube into the drain pan. If the drain is blocked, water can back up and leak down.
What to do
- Clear visible debris from the drain opening.
- Flush the drain with warm water (a turkey baster works well).
- If the drain is frozen, thaw it and confirm water flows freely to the pan.
The manual calls out installation issues that can cause leaks, including improper valves and tubing. It also specifies typical water pressure requirements.
| What we see | Likely cause | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Drips behind fridge | Loose fitting or kinked line | Tighten fittings by hand, then snug (do not overtighten) |
| Small/hollow cubes, slow fill | Low water pressure | Confirm supply pressure is in the recommended range |
| Intermittent leaking | Saddle valve or plastic tubing | Use proper shutoff valve and durable tubing |
Leaks under a refrigerator can damage flooring and can also signal a water connection problem that gets worse over time. Catching a drain restriction or a loose fitting early helps prevent repeat puddles and ice buildup.
Last updated: January 2026





