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Kenmore 79578406801 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 79578406801 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Kenmore 79578406801 refrigerator
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Kenmore Refrigerator 79578406801 FAQs

Water under your Kenmore 79578406801 bottom-mount refrigerator is usually caused by a defrost drain problem (clogged or frozen) that sends meltwater into the cabinet instead of the drain pan, or by a water supply connection that is seeping if your unit has an icemaker or dispenser. Use the owner's manual to locate access points and follow safe handling steps.

Most common causes (and what to check first)
  • Clogged or frozen defrost drain: Water backs up and can leak to the floor during defrost.
  • Drain pan overflow or mispositioned pan: Water from defrost should collect and evaporate; if the pan is out of place, it can spill.
  • Water line or fitting leak (icemaker/dispenser models): Even a slow drip can pool underneath.
  • Door not sealing: Warm air creates excess frost, which later melts and overwhelms the drain.
  • Cabinet not level: Water can run forward instead of toward the drain pan.
Quick troubleshooting steps
  1. Unplug the refrigerator before working near fans, wiring, or the compressor area.
  2. Check for a frozen/clogged drain: Look for ice or standing water on the freezer floor or under crisper drawers.
  3. Flush the drain with warm water (turkey baster works well) and clear debris with a soft pipe cleaner.
  4. Inspect the drain pan underneath for cracks and confirm it is seated correctly.
  5. If you have a water line: Turn the shutoff valve on and inspect all connections for seepage; tighten fittings that leak.
Parts that commonly relate to leaks
Symptom Likely area Part that may help (if damaged)
Water after defrost, puddle under front Defrost drain path Refrigerator drain tube 5251JA3003D
Moisture, frost, then leaking later Door seal/closure Refrigerator door gasket ADX73350927
Light stays on, warm air intrusion Door not registering closed Lg refrigerator door switch 6600JB1010A
Why it matters

Leaks are often a sign that defrost water is not reaching the drain pan, or that the water supply line is dripping. Fixing the root cause prevents floor damage, ice buildup, and temperature swings that can affect food safety.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Kenmore refrigerator’s model number is printed on the appliance’s rating label; on Kenmore bottom-mount units like model 795.7840__ / 795.7841__, it’s typically inside the fresh food compartment on a side wall or ceiling area, or on a label you can see when you open a door. Use the exact model number from that label when ordering parts or checking instructions in the owner's manual.

Where to look for the model number label

Check these common label locations first (use a flashlight and look for a white or silver sticker/plate):

  • Inside the refrigerator compartment on the left or right interior wall
  • On the ceiling of the refrigerator compartment near the light housing
  • On the door frame (the cabinet edge that’s visible when the door is open)
  • Behind or near the crisper drawers (on the back wall or side wall)
  • Near the base grille or lower kickplate area (less common, but possible)
What the model number should look like for this series

For this Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator family, the manual covers models formatted like:

What you see on the label What it means
795.7840__ Series and configuration; last digits vary by version
795.7841__ Series and configuration; last digits vary by version
Color code at the end Identifies finish (for example, stainless vs. other colors)
Why it matters

Using the exact model number from the rating label helps us match the correct parts and diagrams for your refrigerator, including items that can vary by version such as the door gasket, evaporator fan motor, temperature sensor, or ice maker assembly.

Quick tips before you order parts
  • Write the full model number exactly as shown (including dots and any ending digits)
  • If the label is worn, take a clear photo and zoom in to read it
  • Match parts by model number first, then confirm by part diagram location
  • Use the owner's manual to confirm feature layout (ice room, filter location, controls)

Last updated: February 2026

The ER IF code on your Kenmore 79578406801 typically points to an ice fan (ice room fan) airflow problem. That fan moves freezer air through the door ducting to keep the ice maker area cold; when airflow is blocked or the fan is not running, the control displays ER IF.

What to check first (fast, no parts)
  • Power reset: unplug the refrigerator (or turn off the breaker) for 5 minutes, then restore power.
  • Make sure the freezer door closes fully and seals tightly.
  • Clear ice buildup around vents and the ice room area; heavy frost often indicates an airflow restriction.
  • Confirm the ice bin and freezer drawer are seated correctly and not blocking air passages.
  • Listen for a small fan running when the unit is cooling; a loud grinding or no fan sound can indicate a fan issue.
Common causes and what they mean
Likely cause What you may notice Typical fix
Ice buildup blocking the duct Frost, weak ice production Defrost and clear the air path
Fan not spinning or noisy Rattling, buzzing, no airflow Inspect fan area; replace failed fan motor if needed
Door not sealing Frost returns quickly Adjust door, check gasket condition
Sensor or defrost issue contributing to frost Repeated icing and ER IF Troubleshoot defrost system components
Parts that can be involved on this model

If you confirm the fan is not running or airflow is restricted by recurring frost, these model-listed parts are commonly related:

Why it matters

ER IF is an early warning that the ice maker compartment may warm up. Fixing airflow quickly helps prevent soft cubes, clumping ice, and temperature swings in the freezer.

For model-specific component locations and access steps, use the owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore 79578406801 is warm at the bottom of the fresh food section, the most common causes are restricted airflow (blocked vents or overpacked shelves), dirty condenser coils, or a failing fan that is not moving cold air correctly. Use the owner's manual to confirm vent locations and recommended settings.

Quick checks that fix most “warm bottom” complaints
  • Make sure the top air vent inside the refrigerator is not blocked by food containers.
  • Leave space between items so air can circulate from top to bottom.
  • Set the refrigerator temperature first, then wait 24 hours before changing it again.
  • Clean dust and pet hair from the condenser coil area (typically underneath or behind).
  • Confirm the doors close fully and the gasket seals all the way around.
Airflow basics (why the bottom warms up)

This model relies on airflow between the freezer and refrigerator sections. Cold air enters the refrigerator through the top vent, circulates, then exits at the bottom to return to the freezer. When that path is blocked, the bottom area is usually the first place you notice weak cooling.

Common airflow blockers
What you see Likely cause What to do
Top feels cooler than bottom Vents blocked or shelves packed tight Clear vents; reorganize for airflow gaps
Temps swing after loading groceries Multi-Flow needs time to stabilize Wait 24 hours after adjustments
Frost or moisture near doors Door not sealing well Inspect gasket; clean sealing surfaces
Parts that can cause poor cooling at the bottom

If airflow is clear and coils are clean, a fan or sensor issue can prevent cold air from circulating correctly.

Why it matters

Warm temperatures at the bottom can push food above safe storage temps and also make the compressor run longer, increasing energy use. Restoring proper airflow and correct control settings usually resolves the issue quickly.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common issues we see on Kenmore refrigerators like model 79578406801 are poor cooling, ice maker or dispenser problems, water leaks, frost buildup, and unusual noises. These often come from airflow restrictions, door sealing problems, or water supply and defrost drain issues; use the 79578406801 owner's manual troubleshooting guide to pinpoint the symptom.

Common problems and what to check first
  • Not cooling well: keep air vents clear, confirm the doors close fully, and give temperatures time to stabilize after control changes.
  • Ice maker not making ice or slow ice: confirm the freezer is cold enough and the ice room door closes tightly; after a new hookup, allow about 24 hours for ice production.
  • Bad-tasting or smelly ice: discard old ice, clean the bin, and wrap foods tightly so odors do not migrate.
  • Water leaks or puddles: look for a clogged or iced defrost drain path and check water line fittings if the unit has a dispenser.
  • Noisy operation: some sounds are normal; new loud buzzing or scraping often points to a fan or airflow problem.
Quick symptom-to-likely-cause guide
Symptom Most common cause What to do next
Warm fresh food section Blocked airflow, fan not moving air Clear vents; listen for fan operation
Ice maker stopped Door not sealing, freezer too warm, water supply issue Confirm door closes; check supply valve
Water on floor Defrost drain restriction, water line leak Inspect drain area; check tubing/fittings
Frost buildup Door not closing, gasket not sealing Inspect gasket contact and door alignment
Parts that commonly relate to these symptoms

If you confirm a specific failure, these model-compatible parts are often involved:

Why it matters

One root cause can create multiple symptoms. For example, a door that does not seal can trigger warm temperatures, frost, and ice maker problems at the same time.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

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