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Amana LWA50AW top-loading washer

Amana LWA50AW top-loading washer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Amana LWA50AW top-loading washer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for LWA50AW Top-Loading Washer

  • Speed Queen Nut for Amana LWA50AW - Part 27222

    Outer tub, cover, pressure tube, and cou diagram

    Nut

    Part #27222

    Replaced by #27222

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  • Brace, Frt P for Amana LWA50AW - Part Y35097

    Front panel, base and cabinet, and speci diagram

    Brace

    Part #35097

    Replaced by #Y35097

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  • Dryer Idler Pulley Shaft for Amana LWA50AW - Part WP56461

    Motor, belt, pump, and idler assy diagram

    Shaft

    Part #38228

    Replaced by #WP56461

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  • Spring for Amana LWA50AW - Part 205546P

    Weldment and bearing assy, brake and pul diagram

    Brake

    Part #38505

    Replaced by #205546P

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  • Speed Queen Washer Timer Knob for Amana LWA50AW - Part 201501W

    Control panel diagram

    Timer Knob

    Part #35333W

    Replaced by #201501W

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  • Washer Cold/hot Water Fill Hose, 5-ft for Amana LWA50AW - Part WP89503

    Mixing valve and hose(inlet, filler, and diagram

    Fill Hose

    Part #28330P

    Replaced by #WP89503

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  • Speed Queen Washer Switch for Amana LWA50AW - Part 201927P

    Control panel diagram

    Switch

    Part #39023

    Replaced by #201927P

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  • Crosley Washer Drain Pipe Adapter for Amana LWA50AW - Part 40008101

    Mixing valve and hose(inlet, filler, and diagram

    Adapter

    Part #36878

    Replaced by #40008101

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  • Shipping Plug for Amana LWA50AW - Part 38149

    Front panel, base and cabinet, and speci diagram

    Shipping Plug

    Part #38149

    Replaced by #38149

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  • Alliance End Panel (right) for Amana LWA50AW - Part D504008WP

    Control panel diagram

    Panel

    Part #504008W

    Replaced by #D504008WP

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    This part replaces 504008W. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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Amana Top-Loading Washer LWA50AW FAQs

On an Amana LWA50AW top-loading washer, the most expensive repairs are typically major drive-system parts (transmission/gearcase, brake, or tub and spin components) and some electrical controls, because the parts are costly and the labor is more involved. Use the owner's manual to identify your washer’s exact configuration before ordering.

Most expensive washer repairs (what we see most often)

These are the repairs that usually cost the most on a washing machine, including many top-load designs like the LWA50AW:

  • Transmission/gearcase or drive assembly: large, heavy component; significant teardown time
  • Tub and spin system work (basket drive, bearings, seals): labor-intensive and often tied to leaks or loud spin
  • Motor: higher-cost part; may require additional drive components
  • Main control or timer/control components: parts can be expensive and diagnosis matters
  • Brake or clutch system: can be pricey and typically requires deeper disassembly

LWA50AW examples from parts commonly tied to higher-cost repairs

Not every expensive repair is listed as a single “big assembly” part, but these examples show the kind of components that can drive up total repair cost:

Repair area Example part on this model Why it can get expensive
Spin system/bearing work Bearing 28944RP Higher part cost; often paired with seals and labor
Brake system Brake 205546P More teardown; may be bundled with other drive wear
Controls Switch 201927P Electrical diagnosis time; control issues can mimic other failures

How to decide whether it’s worth repairing

We use these checkpoints to make a fast, practical decision:

  • Compare the part cost plus labor to the washer’s age and condition
  • If the washer leaks, roars in spin, or has metal-on-metal noise, expect drive/tub work
  • If symptoms are intermittent, confirm basics first (lid closed, correct cycle, proper load size)
  • Price out all related items (seals, clamps, fasteners) so the repair is complete
  • If multiple major systems are failing, replacement is often the better value

Why it matters

The “most expensive part” is usually expensive because it sits at the center of the wash and spin system. When it fails, the repair often includes extra parts and time, not just one component.

Last updated: February 2026

A 3.5 cu. ft. washer is typically considered medium capacity, not large. For an Amana top-loading washer like model LWA50AW, 3.5 cu. ft. usually handles everyday family loads well, while “large” washers are generally 4.0 cu. ft. and up.

Capacity size guide (typical ranges)

  • Small: 2.0 to 2.5 cu. ft. (best for singles, small loads)
  • Medium: 3.0 to 3.5 cu. ft. (most common for everyday use)
  • Large / extra-large: 4.0 cu. ft. or more (bulky items, bigger households)
Capacity Common label Best for
2.0 to 2.5 cu. ft. Small Light laundry, limited space
3.0 to 3.5 cu. ft. Medium Regular mixed loads
4.0+ cu. ft. Large Comforters, heavy weekly volume

How to decide if 3.5 cu. ft. is “big enough”

We recommend thinking in terms of what you wash most often:

  • King bedding and bulky blankets: 4.0+ cu. ft. is usually the better fit
  • Jeans, towels, mixed weekly loads: 3.0 to 3.5 cu. ft. is a strong everyday range
  • Overloading concerns: medium tubs clean better when you leave room for clothes to move
  • Cycle time and water use: bigger capacity often tempts bigger loads, which can reduce cleaning if packed too tight

Why it matters

Washer capacity affects cleaning performance, wear on drive components, and how often you need to run loads. A medium-capacity tub (around 3.5 cu. ft.) is a practical balance for most households, especially in a classic top-load design.

Where to confirm your washer’s actual capacity

Capacity can vary by design and model series. For the exact specifications for your Amana LWA50AW, check the LWA50AW service manual.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Amana LWA50AW top-loading washer is leaking, making loud noises, not filling or draining correctly, or leaving clothes dirty, it needs attention. Catching these symptoms early helps prevent bigger failures in the drive system, controls, or water-handling parts (see the LWA50AW service manual).

Common signs your washer needs repair

  • New or worsening noises: grinding, squealing, banging, or a loud spin.
  • Leaks: water under the washer, dripping at hoses, or water running down the cabinet.
  • Won’t fill or overfills: slow fill, no fill, or water level is wrong.
  • Won’t drain or won’t spin: tub stays full, clothes are soaking wet at the end.
  • Poor cleaning: detergent not dissolving, heavy soil left behind, or linty residue.
  • Burning smell or hot motor area: stop the cycle and unplug the washer.

Quick checks you can do first (safe, no tools)

  1. Unplug the washer before touching internal parts.
  2. Confirm both water supply valves are fully open and inlet hoses are not kinked.
  3. Make sure the drain hose is not shoved too far down the standpipe (can cause siphoning).
  4. Run a small load; listen for noise changes between agitate and spin.
  5. If leaking, check hose connections and clamps; a loose clamp can cause a sudden drip.

Symptom-to-likely-area guide

Symptom Most common area to inspect Example part on this model page
Water on floor near hoses Hose connections, clamps Hose clamp WP285655
Loud banging in spin Leveling, load balance Leveling leg (listed as 22003428)
Won’t start or stops mid-cycle Timer/controls, lid switch circuit Timer knob (201501W)
Won’t drain/spin Drain path, drive/brake system Brake (205546P)

Why it matters

A washer that keeps running with leaks, overfilling, or abnormal noises can damage the motor, wiring, and floor. The LWA50AW uses a timer, pressure switch, and water temperature switch logic; when one of these systems is off, symptoms usually show up as fill, agitation, or spin problems.

Helpful DIY guidance

For control and timer-related symptoms, we recommend following the steps in how to replace the timer and control parts on an Amana top load washer.

Last updated: February 2026

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Choose a symptom to see related washer repairs.

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Main causes: leaky water inlet valve, faulty water-level pressure switch, bad electronic control board…

Main causes: bad lid switch or door lock, bad timer or electronic control board, wiring failure, bad water inlet valve a…

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