How many cubic feet is my Kenmore refrigerator by model number?
For Kenmore refrigerator model 79579433215, the exact cubic-foot capacity is listed in the product specifications section of the 79579433215 owner's manual. As a quick check, we calculate capacity by measuring the inside usable space (width x height x depth in inches) and dividing by 1,728.
How to calculate cubic feet (the right way)
Use interior measurements, not the outside cabinet size.
- Empty the compartment so you can measure flat surfaces.
- Measure interior width, interior height, and interior depth in inches.
- Multiply:
W x H x D = cubic inches. - Divide by 1,728 to convert cubic inches to cubic feet.
- Repeat for freezer and fresh food sections, then add them together.
Quick example (for reference)
If the interior measures 28 in x 60 in x 18 in:
| Step | Math | Result |
|---|---|---|
| Cubic inches | 28 x 60 x 18 | 30,240 |
| Cubic feet | 30,240 ÷ 1,728 | 17.5 |
Why online “depth x height” answers are often wrong
Many estimates use only two dimensions or use exterior cabinet measurements. That inflates the number because it ignores:
- Wall insulation thickness
- Shelves, bins, and drawers reducing usable space
- Air channels and the evaporator cover
- Divider walls between compartments
Related model help
If you are trying to identify your exact 795-series configuration (and any display error you are seeing), use our Kenmore 795 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes reference alongside the manual.
Last updated: January 2026
Is there a way to reset a Kenmore Elite refrigerator?
Yes. For Kenmore model 79579433215, the most reliable “reset” is a power reset: unplug the refrigerator for a few minutes, then plug it back in and set the temperature controls to your normal settings. If the unit is in Demo mode, turning the temperature setting to a real temperature exits Demo and restores cooling.
Quick reset options (start here)
- Power reset: Unplug the refrigerator for 2 to 5 minutes, then plug it back in.
- Control reset after power is restored: Set the refrigerator and freezer controls back to the desired temperatures (the manual notes you should reset controls after reconnecting power). See the 79579433215 owner's manual.
- Exit Demo mode (cooling is off): If the display is on but the refrigerator is not cooling, press TEMPERATURE ADJUST until you set a temperature; the OFF light should turn off when Demo mode is deactivated.
- Breaker reset: If it is not running at all, reset the tripped circuit breaker or replace a blown fuse.
When a “reset” fixes the problem (and when it will not)
A reset helps when the issue is a temporary control glitch, a power interruption, or Demo mode. It will not fix a failed part such as a control board, fan motor, or sealed system issue.
| Symptom | What it usually means | Best next step |
|---|---|---|
| Lights and display work, but no cooling | Demo mode is enabled | Set a temperature to exit Demo mode |
| Completely dead (no lights) | No power to the refrigerator | Check outlet, breaker, cord connection |
| Cooling returns after reset but fails again | Intermittent control or component issue | Use troubleshooting steps in the manual |
Why it matters
Resetting clears minor electronic hiccups and restores normal control operation without replacing parts. Identifying Demo mode is especially important because it disables cooling while the lights and display appear normal.
Last updated: January 2026
What is the most expensive part to replace on a refrigerator?
On the Kenmore 79579433215 refrigerator, the compressor is typically the most expensive component to replace because it is the heart of the sealed cooling system and the repair often requires specialized tools and labor. Control boards and door assemblies can also be high-cost repairs.
What usually costs the most (and why)
In most refrigerators, the highest total repair cost comes from parts tied to cooling performance or major assemblies.
- Compressor (sealed system): high part cost plus specialized labor
- Electronic control board: expensive electronics; can be model-specific
- Major door assemblies: large, heavy assemblies with hardware and seals
- Condenser-related assemblies: can be costly depending on design
Examples of higher-cost parts listed for model 79579433215
These are examples of parts on this model that can be relatively expensive compared with small switches, clips, and fittings.
| Part type | Example part on this model | Why it can be pricey |
|---|---|---|
| Control board | Lg refrigerator electronic control board EBR78764103 | Electronics, model-specific programming/fit |
| Door assembly | Refrigerator freezer door assembly ADD73697305 | Large assembly; shipping and labor add up |
| Condenser assembly | Refrigerator condenser assembly ACG73766805 | Major cooling-system component |
Quick cost-saving checks before replacing big parts
Before investing in a major repair, we recommend ruling out common, lower-cost causes first.
- Confirm the refrigerator is getting steady power (no tripped breaker, loose cord)
- Clean condenser cover and vents with a vacuum attachment (do not remove the condenser panel cover)
- Check door sealing and closing; warm air leaks can mimic cooling failures
- Look for frost buildup that could point to airflow/defrost issues
- If you see an error code, match it to the symptom before ordering parts
Why it matters
Replacing a compressor or other major assembly can approach the value of an older refrigerator. Doing a few basic checks first helps you avoid replacing an expensive part when the real issue is airflow, a dirty condenser area, or a door seal problem.
For model-specific procedures and safety steps, follow the 79579433215 owner's manual.
Last updated: January 2026





