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Maytag MFD2560HEW refrigerator

Maytag MFD2560HEW refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Maytag MFD2560HEW refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for MFD2560HEW Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Screw for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part WP489349

    Screw, Tf

    Part #M0238731

    Replaced by #WP489349

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  • Refrigerator Freezer Drawer Slide Shaft for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part W11028221

    Freezer shelves diagram

    Shaft Rack

    Part #67004017

    Replaced by #W11028221

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  • Gasket-fip for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part W10830189

    Refrigerator Door Gasket (white)

    Part #67003546

    Replaced by #W10830189

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  • Refrigerator Door Hinge for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part WP12566606ED

    Right refrigerator door diagram

    Refrigerator Door Hinge

    Part #67001011

    Replaced by #WP12566606ED

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  • Clip for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part W11673433

    Evaporator area & rollers diagram

    Imperial Refrigerator Evaporator Heater Clip

    Part #10428101

    Replaced by #W11673433

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  • Appliance Nut for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part WP486692

    Compressor diagram

    Refrigerator Electronic Control Module Motor Nut

    Part #12632601

    Replaced by #WP486692

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  • Amana Refrigerator Water Reservoir Kit for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part W11361728

    Water dispenser/filter diagram

    Refrigerator Water Tank

    Part #67004091

    Replaced by #W11361728

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  • Refrigerator Deli Drawer for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part WP67003531

    Pantry assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Deli Drawer

    Part #67003531

    Replaced by #WP67003531

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Installation Kit for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part 8003RP

    Ice maker diagram

    Refrigerator Installation Kit

    Part #R0131235

    Replaced by #8003RP

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Cube Ejector for Maytag MFD2560HEW - Part WP627843

    Ice maker diagram

    Refrigerator Ice Ejector

    Part #95101-1

    Replaced by #WP627843

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Maytag Refrigerator MFD2560HEW FAQs

A bottom-mount refrigerator like the Maytag MFD2560HEW is better for many kitchens because the fresh-food section sits at eye and waist level, so the items you use most often are easier to reach. The tradeoff is that frozen foods are stored lower in pull-out drawers.

What “better” usually means in day-to-day use

Bottom-mount designs tend to feel more convenient when you cook often and access the refrigerator compartment more than the freezer.

  • Easier access to fresh foods (milk, produce, leftovers) without bending
  • Freezer drawers can organize bulky items better than a top-shelf freezer
  • Better visibility of refrigerated items, which can reduce food waste
  • Works well for households that meal prep and use fresh ingredients often
  • Tradeoff: you bend more for freezer items

Quick comparison: bottom-mount vs top-freezer

Feature Bottom-mount (like MFD2560HEW) Top-freezer
Most-used items Easier reach (fresh food) Harder reach (fresh food)
Freezer access Lower drawers Upper shelf
Organization Strong freezer organization Simple, basic layout
Typical preference Fresh-food focused homes Budget and simplicity

Installation and placement details that affect satisfaction

Even the “best” layout feels worse if the refrigerator is installed in a tight opening or in a hot location. For the MFD2560HEW, we follow the clearance guidance in the owner's manual, including allowing about 1/2 inch at the top and 1/2 inch behind the machine compartment cover for airflow.

  • Avoid installing near ovens or other heat sources
  • Keep it in an indoor household location
  • Don’t install where temps drop below 55 F or rise above 110 F
  • Level the refrigerator to help doors seal and run smoothly

Why it matters

Ergonomics and airflow both impact daily convenience and performance. A bottom-mount layout reduces bending for fresh foods, and proper clearances help the refrigerator cool efficiently and avoid temperature issues.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Maytag MFD2560HEW bottom-mount refrigerator, the “bottom part” people usually mean is the machine compartment area where the compressor and other cooling-system components sit (typically at the back, near the floor). For model-specific access and panel removal steps, use the MFD2560HEW owner's manual.

What you might be referring to (common “bottom” parts)

Depending on what you see or hear, the bottom area can mean different components:

  • Compressor: the pump that circulates refrigerant; often the main “humming” source
  • Condenser coil and condenser fan area: removes heat from the system
  • Drain pan: catches defrost water so it can evaporate
  • Toe grille (kick plate): the front lower grille you can remove for leveling access
  • Freezer drawer/basket area: on bottom-mount designs, the freezer is physically at the bottom

Quick identification guide

Use this to match the name to what you are noticing.

What you notice Most likely name Where it is What it affects
Warm air, dust buildup, louder running Machine compartment (condenser area) Back bottom Cooling efficiency, run time
Steady hum or clicking near the floor Compressor area Back bottom Cooling, starting
Water under fridge or in base area Drain pan or drain system Bottom rear/under unit Leaks, odors
You need to level the refrigerator Toe grille area Front bottom Door alignment, sealing

Why it matters

Using the right name helps you pick the correct repair steps and parts. For example, “bottom grille” issues are handled differently than “compressor” issues, and a freezer drawer problem is different from a cooling-system problem.

Helpful next steps

  • If you mean the front bottom cover, remove the toe grille as shown in the MFD2560HEW owner's manual.
  • If you mean the cooling-system area, unplug the refrigerator before inspecting for dust buildup or unusual noises.
  • If you are chasing cooling problems, check that the refrigerator has proper clearance for airflow (the manual calls out space behind the machine compartment cover).
  • If you are seeing water, focus on the drain pan and defrost drain path first.

Last updated: February 2026

Most Maytag refrigerators, including the Maytag MFD2560HEW bottom-mount style, typically last 10 to 15 years. With steady maintenance (cleaning, good airflow, and keeping door seals tight), it’s common to reach the upper end of that range before major sealed-system repairs become more likely.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

A refrigerator’s life is usually limited by wear on cooling-system components and how hard the unit has to work day to day.

Common factors that shorten lifespan:

  • Dirty condenser area that traps heat and forces longer run times
  • Door gasket leaks that let warm, moist air in
  • Poor airflow around the cabinet (tight enclosure, blocked vents)
  • Heavy ice maker and dispenser use with low water pressure or poor filtration
  • Frequent power interruptions or voltage issues

Maintenance that helps you get the full life

We recommend these practical habits for the MFD2560HEW:

  • Keep temperatures steady (avoid frequent control changes; use normal settings)
  • Clean spills quickly and keep air vents inside the compartments clear
  • Check door closing and gasket contact all the way around
  • Replace the water filter on schedule if your model uses one (helps protect the ice maker and water system)
  • Listen for changes in operating sounds; new clicking, buzzing, or fan noise often signals a fixable issue early

Quick “repair or replace” guide

What you’re seeing What it often means Typical next step
Warm fridge, freezer OK Airflow/evaporator fan or frost issue Inspect airflow; troubleshoot fan/defrost
Frost buildup, poor cooling Defrost system problem Check defrost heater/thermostat
Water/ice tastes off, slow flow Filter restricted Replace filter
Doors not sealing, sweating Gasket leak Adjust/clean gasket; replace if torn

Why it matters

Knowing the expected 10 to 15 year lifespan helps you decide when a repair (like an ice maker, control board, or defrost part) makes sense versus planning for replacement, especially if cooling performance is declining.

For model-specific care, cleaning, and troubleshooting steps, follow the owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Ice on the bottom of the freezer in your Maytag MFD2560HEW almost always happens when the defrost drain clogs. During normal defrost, meltwater should flow down the drain to the drain pan; when it cannot, it refreezes on the freezer floor and builds into a sheet of ice. See the defrost and cleaning guidance in the owner's manual.

What to check first (fast, no-parts steps)

  • Unplug the refrigerator or turn off power at the breaker.
  • Remove the freezer drawer/baskets so you can access the freezer floor.
  • If there is a thick ice sheet, melt it with a hair dryer on low or let it thaw with towels (do not chip ice with sharp tools).
  • Locate the drain opening under/near the evaporator cover area and clear visible debris.
  • Flush the drain with hot water using a turkey baster or squeeze bottle until it flows freely.
  • Confirm the drain pan underneath is seated correctly and not overflowing.

Common causes and the right fix

What you see Most likely cause What usually fixes it
Ice sheet on freezer floor Defrost drain clogged with ice/debris Thaw and flush the drain; clear the drain tube
Water refreezes again within days Drain tube still restricted or freezing at the tip Repeat flush; ensure drain tip is clear and positioned correctly
Frost plus poor cooling Airflow issue at evaporator area Check evaporator fan operation and airflow paths

Parts that can be involved

If clearing the drain does not stop the problem, a defrost system issue can create excess ice that overwhelms drainage.

Why it matters

When meltwater cannot drain, it refreezes and can block the freezer drawer, cause water leaks, and contribute to temperature swings that affect ice maker performance and food quality.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

If the temperature in your refrigerator doesn't match the temperature you set, the problem could be the temperature cont…

Repair time and Difficulty

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

How to replace a refrigerator water valve

Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your refrigerators

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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