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Kenmore Elite 59676603601 bottom-mount refrigerator

Kenmore Elite 59676603601 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 bottom-mount refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 59676603601 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Thermostat for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP627985

    Icemaker parts, optional parts (not included) diagram

    Refrigerator Thermostat

    Part #95092-1

    Replaced by #WP627985

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Module Housing for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP2195914

    Icemaker parts, optional parts (not included) diagram

    Ice Maker Housing

    Part #2194712

    Replaced by #WP2195914

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  • Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP67006531

    Icemaker parts, optional parts (not included) diagram

    Refrigerator Water Inlet Valve Assembly

    Part #67006531

    Replaced by #WP67006531

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  • Refrigerator Temperature Sensor for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP67003924

    Freezer liner parts diagram

    Refrigerator Freezer Thermistor Cover

    Part #67003924

    Replaced by #WP67003924

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  • Refrigerator Water Filter Head for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP67006524

    Refrigerator liner parts diagram

    Refrigerator Water Filter Head

    Part #67006524

    Replaced by #WP67006524

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  • Whirlpool Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Cover Frame for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP67003854

    Shelf parts diagram

    Refrigerator Crisper Drawer Shelf Frame

    Part #67003854

    Replaced by #WP67003854

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP681249

    Icemaker parts, optional parts (not included) diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #95106-1

    Replaced by #WP681249

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  • Refrigerator Ice Maker Shut-off Arm for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP67004028

    Icemaker parts, optional parts (not included) diagram

    Refrigerator Ice Maker Shut-off Arm

    Part #67004028

    Replaced by #WP67004028

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  • Refrigerator Door Handle Mounting Stud for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part WP67006113

    Refrigerator Door Handle Mounting Stud

    Part #67006113

    Replaced by #WP67006113

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore Elite 59676603601 - Part 67006425

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #67006425
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Kenmore Elite Bottom-Mount Refrigerator 59676603601 FAQs

Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 59676603601 is a bottom-mount design in the common 33-inch class; most units in this family are about 33 inches wide and roughly 69 to 71 inches tall (without measuring, exact dimensions vary by configuration). For the exact cabinet and door-swing clearances, use the 59676603601 owner's manual.

Typical dimensions you can expect

Most Kenmore Elite bottom-mount refrigerators like 59676603601 fit standard kitchen cutouts. Use these as planning ranges, then confirm by measuring your unit.

  • Width: about 33 in (common “33-inch” footprint)
  • Height: typically 69 to 71 in (varies with hinges and leveling legs)
  • Depth: often 33 to 35 in overall (varies with handles)
  • Recommended clearance: about 1/2 in at the top and behind for ventilation
  • Hinge-side clearance: at least 2 1/2 in next to a fixed wall for door swing

Quick fit check (measurements that matter)

Measure your refrigerator and the opening in three places (top, middle, bottom) to catch out-of-square cabinets.

What to measure How to measure Why it matters
Width Cabinet edge to edge Confirms the “33-inch class” fit
Height Floor to top of cabinet Avoids hitting upper cabinets
Depth Back wall to front (include handles if present) Prevents doors/handles from sticking out
Door swing Hinge side to nearby wall Ensures doors open fully

Why it matters

Correct sizing prevents poor airflow and door-interference issues. The manual’s clearance guidance (top/behind space and hinge-side spacing) helps the compressor and condenser system run efficiently and keeps doors from binding.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore Elite model 59676603601, DH commonly indicates a defrost heater (defrost heat) problem, meaning the refrigerator is not warming the evaporator enough during the defrost cycle. This can lead to frost buildup, warm temperatures, and reduced airflow; follow the troubleshooting steps in the 59676603601 owner's manual.

What you’ll usually notice when DH shows up

  • Freezer temperature rises or swings
  • Refrigerator section warms because airflow is restricted
  • Frost or ice buildup on the freezer’s back wall
  • Evaporator fan noise changes (airflow gets weaker)
  • Ice maker slows down or stops making ice

Quick checks we recommend first

  1. Power reset: Unplug the refrigerator (or turn off the breaker) for 5 minutes, then restore power.
  2. Check for heavy frost: If the freezer back panel is packed with frost, the defrost system is likely not clearing ice.
  3. Confirm doors seal well: A leaking door gasket can add moisture and accelerate frost buildup.
  4. Listen for the evaporator fan: If the fan is running but airflow is weak, frost may be blocking the evaporator.

Parts that commonly cause a DH/defrost heat issue

What can fail What it does What you’ll see
Defrost heater Melts frost off the evaporator Heavy frost, warm temps
Defrost control (board/timer) Starts and ends defrost Repeating frost return
Temperature sensor/thermistor Tells control when to defrost/stop Erratic temps, defrost errors

If you’re diagnosing the defrost circuit with a meter, a failed heater is a common root cause; for this model, the listed heater is refrigerator defrost heater WP67002493.

Why it matters

When the defrost system can’t clear frost, the evaporator can ice over and block airflow. That makes the refrigerator work harder, temperatures drift warmer, and food can spoil faster.

Last updated: January 2026

Most Kenmore Elite refrigerators, including model 59676603601, typically last 10 to 15 years with normal household use. Regular care (cleaning, good door sealing, and steady temperatures) helps you reach the high end of that range; major sealed-system failures often drive replacement decisions.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

  • Average range: 10 to 15 years
  • Longer life is common when: condenser area stays clean, doors seal tightly, and airflow is not blocked
  • Shorter life is common when: the unit runs hot, coils are clogged, or temperatures swing often
  • High-impact components: compressor, evaporator fan motor, defrost system, temperature sensors
  • Usage factors: frequent door openings, warm room location, overpacking, and poor ventilation

Quick maintenance checklist (adds years)

Use these habits to reduce compressor run time and frost issues:

  • Keep door gaskets clean and check for gaps or tears
  • Vacuum dust from the condenser area regularly (frequency depends on pets and dust)
  • Avoid blocking air vents inside the fresh food and freezer sections
  • Set stable temps (most homes do well around 37°F fresh food and 0°F freezer)
  • Follow the care and cleaning guidance in the 59676603601 owner's manual

Common “end-of-life” symptoms vs. fixable issues

Symptom Often indicates Usually worth checking first
Warm fridge and freezer, loud running Sealed system or compressor strain Condenser cleaning, airflow, door seal
Frost buildup, weak cooling Defrost problem Defrost heater and airflow
Temps swing, food spoils faster Sensor or airflow issue Damper control and fan operation
Ice maker stops, no ice Water supply or ice maker issue Water inlet valve, ice maker module

Why it matters

A refrigerator near the 10 to 15 year mark can still be reliable, but preventive maintenance reduces energy use and helps avoid expensive failures in the sealed refrigeration system.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 59676603601, the damper control is typically located inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment where cold air enters from the freezer, usually behind an upper rear cover or housing near the air inlet. For your exact access steps, use the 59676603601 owner's manual.

How to find it in the refrigerator section

In most bottom-mount designs, the damper sits at the top rear of the refrigerator compartment and connects to an air duct coming from the freezer.

  • Look along the upper back wall of the refrigerator compartment for an air vent or diffuser
  • Check behind a snap-on cover or small plastic housing near that vent
  • Listen for a soft opening/closing sound when temperatures are changing
  • If you see frost buildup near the vent, the damper area is a key place to inspect

Why it can get noisy

A damper can make clicking, tapping, or buzzing noises when it cycles. Common causes include ice interference, a sticking door, or a failing motor/gear.

Symptom What it often points to What to do first
Loud clicking during cycling Damper door sticking or worn drive Inspect for ice or broken plastic
Buzzing/humming near top rear Damper motor working hard Check for blockage at the air inlet
Temperature swings in fridge Damper not regulating airflow Verify settings, then inspect damper

Quick checks before replacing parts

  • Set refrigerator temp to a normal mid setting and wait 24 hours for stabilization
  • Make sure food packages are not blocking the air vent
  • Check for visible frost/ice around the vent area (unplug first if you need to remove covers)
  • If the refrigerator is too warm, also confirm the evaporator fan is running; a weak fan can mimic damper problems (see evaporator motor WPW10128551)

Why it matters

The damper control regulates how much freezer air enters the refrigerator compartment. When it sticks open or closed, you can get warm food, frozen produce, excess noise, and uneven temperatures.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

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How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

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How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

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 15 minutes or less

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Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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