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Kenmore 59679877990 bottom-mount refrigerator

Kenmore 59679877990 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 59679877990 bottom-mount refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 59679877990 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Ladder for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 12435701

    Light switches/drain funnel diagram

    Refrigerator Ladder

    Part #12435701

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part R0186041

    Ice maker assembly and parts diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #R0186041

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Grommet for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 12442501

    Evaporator/freezer control assembly diagram

    Refrigerator Grommet

    Part #12442501

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 12248201

    Door handles and accessories diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #12248201

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Harness for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 10525901

    Refrigerator Harness

    Part #10525901

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Shelf Stop for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 10875101

    Ref. feature/glide-meatkeeper shlvs diagram

    Shelf Stop

    Part #10875101

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Trim for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 12443302

    Door handles and accessories diagram

    Refrigerator Trim

    Part #12443302

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Meat Kpr P for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 10417115

    Ref. feature/glide-meatkeeper shlvs diagram

    Meat Kpr P

    Part #10417115

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Extrusion for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part 10688079

    Crisper assembly/freezer feature diagram

    Refrigerator Extrusion

    Part #10688079

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Add On Ice Maker Assembly for Kenmore 59679877990 - Part P1165803W

    #NI

    All parts diagram

    Add On Ice Maker Assembly

    Part #P1165803W

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Kenmore Bottom-Mount Refrigerator 59679877990 FAQs

You can identify your Kenmore refrigerator model number by finding the model/serial tag on the cabinet or inside the fresh food section. For a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 59679877990, the tag is usually on an inside wall, inside the door area, or near the lower crisper/kickplate area.

Where to look for the model number tag

Check these common locations first (use a flashlight and look for a sticker or metal plate):

  • Inside the refrigerator compartment on a side wall (often near the top)
  • On the inside wall behind or beside the crisper drawers
  • Along the door frame when you open the refrigerator door
  • Inside the freezer compartment on a side wall or near the drawer opening
  • Behind the lower toe grille or kickplate area at the front

What the model number looks like (Kenmore)

Kenmore model numbers are typically numbers only and often start with a 3-digit prefix.

What you see on the tag What it means Example
Model No. The model you use to look up parts and diagrams 59679877990
Serial No. The unit’s unique ID (helps date/production) Varies
Type / Code Internal manufacturing info Varies

Tips to avoid mix-ups

Use these quick checks so you capture the correct number:

  • Copy the full model number exactly; do not stop at the first 3 digits
  • Photograph the tag so you can zoom in and confirm characters
  • If the sticker is worn, wipe gently with a damp cloth and dry it before reading
  • Use the model number (not the serial) when searching parts

Why it matters

The model number controls which parts fit your refrigerator (door bins, drawers, evaporator fan motor, water filter housing, ice maker components). Even small model-number differences can change the correct replacement part.

If your display is showing an error or you suspect an electronic issue, use our error code reference as a starting point: Kenmore 795 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 59679877990, a bad compressor typically shows up as poor or no cooling even though the unit has power, often with repeated clicking (start attempts) or a compressor that never runs. Confirming the compressor itself requires a few basic checks to rule out airflow, defrost, and start-device problems first.

Quick symptoms that point to a compressor problem

  • Refrigerator and freezer are both warm, but interior lights and controls work
  • You hear a click every few minutes from the back (start device trying, then tripping)
  • The compressor is very hot to the touch after repeated start attempts
  • The compressor is silent and never vibrates or hums (even when cooling is demanded)
  • The condenser fan runs, but temperatures do not drop

Checks to do before blaming the compressor

Many “bad compressor” complaints are actually caused by airflow or a failed start component.

  • Clean the condenser coils and make sure the condenser fan is running
  • Verify the evaporator fan runs when the doors are closed (or door switch is pressed)
  • Look for heavy frost on the freezer back wall (can indicate a defrost failure)
  • Listen for a steady compressor hum versus repeated clicking
  • If the compressor tries to start and clicks off, suspect the start device or overload first

What a technician tests (the fastest way to confirm)

These tests isolate whether the compressor is electrically failed, mechanically locked, or being prevented from starting.

Test What it checks What “bad” often looks like
Start attempt observation Can it start and stay running? Clicks on, then off repeatedly
Amp draw at startup Locked rotor or hard-start condition Very high spike, then trip
Winding continuity Open windings No continuity on a winding
Ground fault check Short to ground Continuity to compressor shell

Why it matters

A compressor is the heart of the sealed system. If it is truly failed, the refrigerator will not cool reliably, and replacing other parts (fans, thermostats, controls) will not restore normal temperatures.

Helpful DIY guidance

If you are also seeing a display code or unusual beeping, use our error-code resources to narrow the problem before replacing anything: Kenmore 795 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes.

Last updated: February 2026

Water at the bottom of your Kenmore 59679877990 bottom-mount refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged or frozen defrost drain, which forces defrost water to overflow into the fresh food section and down to the floor. A cracked drain pan or a leaking water supply line can also cause bottom leaks.

Most common causes (in order)

  • Defrost drain clogged by food debris, slime, or ice
  • Defrost drain frozen from warm air leaks or incomplete defrosting
  • Drain pan cracked or out of position under the cabinet
  • Water line or fitting leaking (if you have an ice maker or water dispenser)
  • Door gasket not sealing, creating excess frost that later melts and overflows

Quick checks you can do safely

  1. Unplug the refrigerator and pull it out far enough to inspect behind and underneath.
  2. Look for a sheet of ice or standing water on the refrigerator floor (inside, near the crisper drawers). That points to a defrost drain issue.
  3. Inspect the drain pan underneath for cracks, warping, or being knocked off its supports.
  4. Check the water supply line (usually a 1/4-inch plastic or copper line) and the connection at the rear inlet valve area for drips.
  5. Inspect door gaskets for gaps, tears, or areas that do not grip paper when the door is closed.

What to do based on what you find

What you see Most likely cause What to do next
Water under crisper drawers, then puddle on floor Clogged/frozen defrost drain Thaw ice with warm air; flush drain with hot water until it flows freely
Water only under the fridge, pan overflowing Drain pan shifted or damaged Re-seat the pan; replace if cracked
Drips at back near tubing Water line or fitting leak Tighten compression fittings; replace damaged tubing
Heavy frost, then water later Air leak at door gasket Clean gasket and sealing surfaces; adjust door alignment

Why it matters

A bottom leak is not just a mess; repeated water exposure can warp flooring, promote odors, and lead to recurring ice buildup that reduces cooling performance.

Helpful DIY guidance

Last updated: February 2026

When a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 59679877990 is warm at the bottom, the most common causes are restricted airflow (blocked vents or an iced-up evaporator area) or poor heat release from dirty condenser coils. Start with cleaning and airflow checks before replacing parts.

Quick checks we recommend first

  • Make sure food packages are not blocking the return or supply vents inside the fresh food section.
  • Set the refrigerator temperature to 37°F and the freezer to 0°F, then allow 24 hours to stabilize.
  • Clean the condenser area (dust and pet hair reduce cooling performance).
  • Confirm the evaporator fan is running (you should hear airflow when the compressor is on).
  • Check for heavy frost on the freezer back panel (a defrost problem can choke airflow to the bottom).
  • Verify the door seals are closing tightly and not gapped.

What usually causes “warm at the bottom”

In bottom-mount designs, cold air is moved by a fan and routed through ducts. If that airflow is restricted, the lower area of the refrigerator compartment often warms up first.

Symptom Most likely cause What to do next
Top shelves cool, bottom warm Blocked vents or poor circulation Clear vents; avoid overpacking; check fan airflow
Freezer cold, fridge bottom warm Iced air duct or evaporator frost buildup Look for frost; defrost and inspect for recurring icing
Both sections slowly warming Dirty condenser coils or weak condenser airflow Clean coils; ensure rear/bottom airflow clearance
Puddles or ice near bottom Clogged defrost drain Clear drain and check for refreezing

Cleaning condenser coils (high impact)

Dirty condenser coils are a frequent reason cooling becomes uneven.

  • Unplug the refrigerator.
  • Access the condenser area (often behind a lower toe grille or rear cover).
  • Use a coil brush and vacuum to remove dust and pet hair.
  • Restore power and recheck temperatures after several hours.

Why it matters

If the bottom stays warm, food safety and freshness suffer, and the compressor can run longer than normal. Fixing airflow restrictions and coil buildup typically restores normal cooling without major repair.

For step-by-step help on a common airflow culprit, use our guide: how to fix your evaporator cooling fan.

Last updated: February 2026

For Kenmore model 59679877990, the most reliable way to get the exact cubic-foot capacity is to read the capacity listed on the refrigerator’s rating plate (usually inside the fresh food compartment). That label gives the true “as-built” capacity for your specific bottom-mount refrigerator.

Where to find the cubic feet on the refrigerator

Look for a model and serial tag (rating plate) in one of these common spots:

  • On a side wall inside the fresh food section (often near the crisper drawers)
  • On the ceiling of the fresh food section
  • Along the door frame when you open the refrigerator door
  • Inside the freezer drawer area on a side wall

What you’re looking for on the tag

The capacity is typically shown as “Total capacity” or “Capacity” and may be listed in cu. ft. (cubic feet).

If you cannot locate the rating plate

If the label is missing or unreadable, you can still narrow it down using typical capacity ranges for this style.

Typical capacity ranges (helpful for planning)

Refrigerator style Typical total capacity Common use case
Bottom-mount (30 to 33 in. wide) 18 to 22 cu. ft. Most kitchens
Bottom-mount (33 to 36 in. wide) 22 to 26 cu. ft. Larger households

Why it matters

Knowing cubic feet helps us match the right refrigerator parts and accessories (like a refrigerator water filter or air filter), and it also helps when comparing storage space, shelf layout, and bin sizes.

If you are troubleshooting instead of shopping by capacity, use our DIY resources:

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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