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Kenmore Elite 41791102002 dryer

Kenmore Elite 41791102002 dryer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore Elite 41791102002 dryer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Kenmore Elite Dryer 41791102002 FAQs

The Kenmore Elite dryer model 41791102002 is a full-size 27-inch dryer. Based on the installation dimensions, it measures about 38 inches deep, 27 inches wide, and about 53.25 to 53.5 inches tall (door clearance and pedestal options can change the effective space you need). See the 41791102002 installation guide for the exact diagram.

Key dimensions to plan for

Use these measurements when planning a laundry room, closet, or alcove install:

  • Width: 27.0 in (68.5 cm)
  • Depth (cabinet): 38.0 in (96.5 cm)
  • Depth with door open clearance: about 53.5 in (136 cm)
  • Height (freestanding): about 53.25 in (135.5 cm) centerline reference shown in the diagram
Closet and clearance notes (common fit issues)

Even when the dryer physically fits, airflow and door swing are what usually cause problems.

  • Closet door ventilation needs 120 sq. in. total opening, split top and bottom
  • Openings should be about 3 inches from the top and bottom of the door
  • Minimum closet front clearance shown is 1 inch
  • Rear clearance can be 0 inches only when venting straight back (as specified)
Quick planning table
What you are measuring What to use Why
Space side-to-side 27.0 in Ensures cabinet fits between walls/cabinets
Space front-to-back 38.0 in Ensures dryer body fits without crushing vent
Space for loading ~53.5 in Ensures the door can open fully
Closet airflow 120 sq. in Prevents overheating and long dry times
Why it matters

Correct sizing prevents crushed venting, poor airflow, and door-swing interference. Those issues commonly lead to longer dry times, higher heat inside the cabinet, and premature wear on parts like the drum belt and support rollers.

Last updated: January 2026

To reset your Kenmore Elite dryer model 41791102002, do a hard reset: unplug the dryer (or switch off the breaker) for 1 to 5 minutes, then restore power and press POWER to wake it up. If the dryer still will not run, the issue is usually a safety or airflow problem, not a “reset” setting.

Reset options that work on most Kenmore electronic dryers
  • Hard reset (best first step): unplug 1 to 5 minutes, then power back on.
  • Sleep and wake: press POWER to put the dryer to sleep, then press POWER again to wake it.
  • Clear a stuck cycle: open and close the door firmly, then press START.
  • After first-time power-up: follow the setup prompts if your console uses an LCD touch screen.

For model-specific button sequences and display messages, use the 41791102002 owner's manual.

If the dryer still will not start after a reset

A reset only reboots the control; it does not fix a failed part or a blocked vent. Check these common causes:

  • Door not fully closed or door switch not engaging
  • No power (tripped breaker, loose cord, bad outlet)
  • Control lock enabled (if equipped)
  • Restricted venting causing overheating protection to trip
  • Failed temperature sensing (can stop heat or cause odd cycle behavior)

If you are troubleshooting heat or temperature issues, the Kenmore dryer thermistor 134711300 is one of the key sensors used to regulate drying temperature.

Quick symptom guide
What you see What a reset can fix What to check next
Display frozen or buttons unresponsive Yes Power supply, UI issues
Dryer powers on but will not start Sometimes Door switch, start circuit, control lock
Runs but no heat No Gas/heat system, airflow, sensors
Stops mid-cycle Sometimes Vent restriction, overheating, sensor problems
Why it matters

Resetting is useful for clearing a temporary control glitch, but repeated “needs a reset” behavior usually points to airflow restriction, overheating protection, or a component such as a thermistor affecting cycle operation.

Last updated: January 2026

On the Kenmore Elite dryer model 41791102002, an L2 error means the dryer is not getting proper 240-volt power because the L2 (second hot) leg is too low, so the heater cannot run correctly. Restoring correct power at the outlet and terminal block typically clears the code; see the 41791102002 installation guide.

What to check first (most common fixes)
  • Reset the dryer’s double-pole circuit breaker (turn it fully OFF, then ON).
  • Confirm the dryer is plugged into the correct 240V dryer receptacle (not a 120V outlet).
  • Check for a loose power cord at the wall outlet.
  • Unplug the dryer and inspect the terminal block connections for loose or overheated wires.
  • If the cord or plug shows heat damage, replace the power cord and correct the connection.
Quick voltage targets (what “good power” looks like)

Use a multimeter at the receptacle (or have an electrician do it). Typical readings:

Test points Normal target What it suggests if low
L1 to L2 ~240 VAC L2 error likely; breaker, cord, outlet, or supply issue
L1 to Neutral ~120 VAC One hot leg present
L2 to Neutral ~120 VAC Confirms the second hot leg is present
Why this matters

When L2 voltage is missing or low, the motor and controls may still run on 120V, but the heating circuit cannot produce full heat. That leads to long dry times, no heat complaints, and repeated error codes.

Safety notes we follow
  • Disconnect power before opening panels or touching wiring.
  • If you see melted insulation, scorching, or a burning smell, stop and have a licensed electrician correct the supply wiring.
Related help

If your display shows other codes, use our Kenmore 417 model dryer error codes reference to match the symptom to the right checks.

Last updated: January 2026

For the Kenmore Elite dryer model 41791102002, the gas version uses a standard 120-volt (often called 110/115/120V) outlet for the motor, controls, and igniter; the heat comes from gas, not 240V electricity. Confirm the exact electrical and grounding requirements in the installation guide.

What power a gas dryer actually needs

A gas dryer still needs electricity, but it does not use a 240V (220V) heating circuit like most electric dryers.

  • Electrical supply: 120V, single-phase, 60 Hz
  • Circuit: dedicated, properly grounded 15-amp branch circuit
  • Plug style: 3-prong grounded plug (do not remove the grounding prong)
  • Heat source: natural gas or LP (propane) supply, depending on setup
Gas hookup and venting basics (quick checklist)

We recommend following the installation requirements closely because gas and venting issues can create unsafe conditions.

  • Use an individual gas shutoff valve on the supply line
  • Use approved gas piping materials (black iron, stainless steel, or plastic-coated brass)
  • Use 4-inch rigid or flexible metal duct (rigid metal is preferred)
  • Avoid flexible plastic or foil venting because it can crush and trap lint
  • Maintain clearance at the vent hood so airflow is not restricted
Gas vs. electric dryer power comparison
Dryer type Outlet voltage Typical breaker What makes the heat
Gas dryer 120V 15A Gas burner
Electric dryer 240V 30A Electric heating element
Why it matters

Using the correct voltage and a properly grounded outlet helps the dryer run reliably and protects the control board, motor, and safety circuits. Correct venting also prevents long dry times and overheating.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your dryers

Choose a symptom to see related dryer repairs.

Main causes: bad gas valve coils, broken heating element, tripped safety thermostat or fuse, bad operating thermostat, c…

Main causes: clogged exhaust system, heating system failure, deposits on moisture sensor, control system failure…

Main causes: clogged exhaust vent, bad motor relay, loose dryer door catch, bad door switch, control system failure, fau…

Main causes: door switch failure, lack of power, broken belt, blown thermal fuse, bad drive motor, control system failur…

Main causes: damaged door strike, worn door catch…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, bad power cord, wiring failure, bad control board, blown thermal fuse, bad door s…

Main causes: bad timer or electronic control board, door switch failure…

Main causes: bad drum support roller, damaged idler pulley, broken blower fan blade, worn drum glide bearing, bad drive …

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