What are the disadvantages of a bottom freezer refrigerator?
A bottom-freezer refrigerator like the GE DFE28JMKIES keeps fresh food at eye level, but the tradeoffs are mostly about freezer access and drawer wear. You typically bend more for frozen items, and the heavy pull-out freezer drawer can be harder to organize and tougher on slides and seals over time.
- More bending for frozen food: the freezer is low, so frequent freezer use is less convenient.
- Heavier freezer drawer: a fully loaded drawer takes more effort to open and close.
- Drawer and rail wear: repeated pulling on a heavy drawer can wear glides, rollers, and alignment points.
- Freezer organization can be trickier: deep drawers can hide items unless you use bins.
- Often higher purchase cost: bottom-freezer designs commonly cost more than basic top-freezer models.
| Feature | Bottom freezer | Top freezer | Side-by-side |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fresh food access | Best (eye level) | Good | Good |
| Freezer access | Most bending | Least bending | Easy, but narrow shelves |
| Storage shape | Wide fridge shelves | Balanced | Narrow fridge and freezer sections |
| Wear points | Drawer rails, seals | Door hinges, seals | Door seals, dispenser parts |
- Keep heaviest frozen items closer to the top of the drawer.
- Use stackable bins to prevent “lost” items in the back.
- Avoid slamming the drawer; close it firmly so the gasket seals.
- Clean and inspect door gaskets regularly; air leaks increase frost and temperature swings.
- Use the care and feature guidance in the owner's manual to match your model’s controls and storage features.
Most complaints about bottom-freezer refrigerators come from daily habits: if you access frozen food often, the bending and heavy drawer feel bigger. If you mainly use fresh food, the eye-level refrigerator section is usually worth the tradeoff.
Last updated: February 2026
What is the most common problem with GE DFE28JMKIES refrigerators?
The most common issues we see with the GE DFE28JMKIES bottom-mount refrigerator are ice maker and water system complaints (no ice, slow ice, bad-tasting ice, dispenser drips) and temperature complaints caused by airflow being blocked or controls being set incorrectly. The owner's manual troubleshooting chart covers these symptoms and the quickest checks.
- Ice maker not making ice or slow production: freezer temperature not at the recommended setting, recent filter change, or the ice maker just restarted
- Bad taste or odor in ice/water: first ice after startup or after a filter change was not discarded
- Water dispenser dripping after use: air trapped in the water line
- Refrigerator not cooling as expected: cooling turned off in controls, or airflow vents blocked by food packages
- Beeping: door alarm is on because a door is not fully closed
- Confirm temperature targets: GE recommends 37°F for the fresh food section and 0°F for the freezer.
- Check airflow: keep items from blocking the air tower and vents so cold air can circulate.
- If water drips after dispensing: dispense water for at least 5 minutes to purge air from the line.
- If ice tastes off after a filter change: discard the first bin of ice.
- If it is “not cooling” right after plugging in or after an outage: allow 24 hours for both compartments to reach the set temperatures.
| Symptom | Most likely quick fix | What to do next |
|---|---|---|
| Dispenser drips after filling a glass | Air in water line | Purge by dispensing water for 5 minutes |
| Ice tastes or smells odd | First batch after restart/filter | Throw away first bin of ice |
| Warm fridge, freezer seems OK (early on) | Normal pull-down after power loss | Wait 24 hours, then recheck temps |
| Beeping | Door alarm | Close door fully; snooze/disable per controls |
Most “common problems” on this model trace back to normal startup behavior, airflow restrictions, or the water system needing to be purged or reset. Fixing those basics first prevents unnecessary part replacement and gets temperatures and ice production back to normal faster.
- How to replace the water filter in a GE refrigerator
- How to purge air from a refrigerator water dispenser video
- GE refrigerator error codes
Last updated: February 2026
How to remove bottom grille on GE refrigerator?
On the GE DFE28JMKIES bottom-mount refrigerator, the bottom grille (toe grille) is removed from the front at floor level; the exact attachment method varies by version (snap-in clips or screws). Use the DFE28JMKIES owner's manual to confirm the fastener style, then remove it using the steps below.
- Unplug the refrigerator if you will reach near wiring or the condenser fan area.
- Protect the floor with cardboard or a towel.
- If you need more room, pull the refrigerator straight out a few inches (avoid twisting).
- Keep the water line and power cord from getting pinched when moving the unit.
- Look along the top edge and both corners of the grille for visible screws.
- If screws are present: remove them with a Phillips screwdriver, then pull the grille straight toward you.
- If no screws are present: grip both ends of the grille and pull outward near the ends to release the retaining clips.
- Work side to side; release one clip area at a time instead of yanking from the center.
- Set the grille aside and vacuum dust from the condenser area if accessible.
- Align the grille tabs with the slots along the bottom front frame.
- Press evenly across the grille until it seats fully.
- Reinstall screws (if used) and tighten until snug.
| What you see | What it usually means | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Grille bows but stays attached | Clips still engaged | Pull at the ends, close to each clip point |
| One side releases, other side stuck | Uneven force | Re-seat the loose side, then pull both ends evenly |
| Screws visible | Mechanical fasteners | Remove screws first, then pull straight out |
We remove the toe grille to clean lint and dust around the condenser area and to inspect for airflow blockage; keeping this area clear helps cooling performance and efficiency.
Last updated: February 2026





