Kenmore Elite 79572053117 refrigerator Parts

To raise a Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 79572053117, we recommend adjusting the two front leveling legs; turning the legs to the left raises the cabinet and turning to the right lowers it. Raise both sides evenly, then re-check door closing and stability using the steps in the 79572053117 use & care manual.

Safest way to raise it (leveling legs)

Use the built-in leveling legs first; they are designed to support the refrigerator’s weight and help the doors seal correctly.

• Unload heavy items from the doors to reduce tipping risk.
• Have a second person push back gently at the top to take weight off the legs.
• Use an 11/16-inch wrench or a flat-blade screwdriver (tool depends on the leg style).
• Turn both front leveling legs the same amount to keep the cabinet square.
• Aim for a slight backward tilt so the doors close more easily.
• After adjusting, open and close both fresh food doors several times to confirm smooth closing.

If you need more height than the legs provide

For lifts beyond normal leveling range, a rigid platform can work, but it must support the full footprint and keep the refrigerator stable.

• Use a solid, flat base (not soft flooring or thick carpet).
• Keep the refrigerator fully supported corner-to-corner.
• Do not block airflow; maintain clearance behind the unit.
• Re-check that the freezer drawer and doors don’t bind after raising.

Quick checks after raising

What to check	What “good” looks like
Door sealing	Gaskets contact evenly all around
Door closing	Doors close without popping back open
Rocking	Cabinet does not wobble when you press corners
Clearance	Back clearance maintained for airflow

Why it matters

Correct height and leveling help the doors seal, prevent warm air leaks (frost and moisture), and reduce compressor run time and noise.

Last updated: January 2026

On Kenmore Elite model 79572053117, a “bad compressor” usually shows up as poor or no cooling even though the unit has power and the fans may run. Before condemning the compressor, we recommend checking airflow, condenser cleanliness, and the compressor start components using the 79572053117 use & care manual.

Common signs that point to a compressor problem

Look for a pattern of symptoms, not just one:

• Refrigerator and freezer temperatures keep rising even after 24 hours of normal operation
• Compressor tries to start but clicks off repeatedly (often every few minutes)
• Compressor runs but cooling is weak (food soft in freezer, fridge warm)
• Compressor is unusually hot and the unit seems to run constantly
• Breaker trips or the outlet gets warm (stop using and have it checked)

Quick checks to do first (often not the compressor)

These checks can prevent an unnecessary sealed-system repair:

• Confirm controls are set correctly; after changes, allow 24 hours to stabilize
• Clean the condenser area; restricted airflow can mimic compressor failure
• Listen for fan operation (evaporator and condenser fan); a failed fan can cause warm temps
• Check door sealing; warm air leaks cause long run times and poor cooling
• Rule out “Demo Mode” if your display shows cooling is disabled (covered in the manual)

Parts commonly involved when the compressor will not start

If the compressor is not starting, the start device is often the first suspect.

Symptom	More likely cause	Less likely cause
Clicks every few minutes, no cooling	Start relay/overload	Compressor
Runs constantly, still warm	Dirty condenser, airflow issue	Compressor
Hums briefly then clicks off	Start relay/overload	Compressor

If you determine the start device is faulty, the compatible replacement for this model is the refrigerator compressor start relay EBG60663230.

Why it matters

A compressor replacement is a sealed-system repair that is more complex than typical DIY part swaps. Verifying airflow, fans, and the start relay first helps you avoid replacing the wrong component and gets your Kenmore refrigerator cooling again faster.

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore Elite refrigerator model 79572053117 is warm at the bottom, the most common cause is restricted airflow: cold air can’t move from the freezer/air ducts into the lower refrigerator area because vents are blocked, frost is building up, or a fan/damper isn’t moving air correctly. See the airflow and control guidance in the 79572053117 use & care manual.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Make sure food packages are not pressed against interior air vents (both fridge and freezer).
• Set temperatures to a normal baseline and wait a full 24 hours after any change.
• Confirm doors close and seal fully; a slightly open door can cause warm zones and moisture.
• Look for heavy frost on the freezer back wall (a sign of a defrost/airflow problem).
• Listen for the evaporator fan running when the unit is cooling (often heard from the freezer area).

Likely causes (and what to do)

What you notice	Most likely cause	What to try
Top shelves cool, bottom warm	Blocked return vents or overpacked drawers	Reorganize to clear vents; leave space around drawers
Freezer cold, fridge bottom warm	Air damper not opening or airflow restricted	Check for ice blockage; if persistent, inspect airflow components
Frost/ice on freezer rear panel	Defrost system issue	Unplug and thaw (temporary); plan a defrost-system diagnosis
Fridge warm everywhere	Cooling system or control issue	Verify settings; clean condenser area; consider service

Parts that can be involved (when airflow is the issue)

If basic vent-clearing doesn’t fix it, these model-compatible parts are commonly involved in bottom-warm symptoms:

• Refrigerator air damper ADJ73252235 (controls how much cold air enters the fresh-food section)
• Refrigerator evaporator ADL73341411 (part of the cooling system that creates cold air)
• Refrigerator defrost heater MEE62105201 (helps prevent ice buildup that blocks airflow)
• Refrigerator defrost sensor assembly 6615JB2005R (monitors temperatures for defrost operation)

Why it matters

Bottom-warm temperatures can spoil food quickly and often point to an airflow restriction that gets worse over time (ice buildup, weak fan airflow, or a sticking damper). Catching it early can prevent bigger cooling problems.

Last updated: January 2026