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Kenmore 59671274101 refrigerator

Kenmore 59671274101 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 59671274101 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 59671274101 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Shim for Kenmore 59671274101 - Part M0274058

    Controls/light covers diagram

    Refrigerator Shim

    Part #M0274058

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Shim (black) for Kenmore 59671274101 - Part M0274063

    Controls/light covers diagram

    Refrigerator Shim (black)

    Part #M0274063

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Damper Gasket for Kenmore 59671274101 - Part B8345401

    Controls/light covers diagram

    Refrigerator Damper Gasket

    Part #B8345401

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Technical Sheet for Kenmore 59671274101 - Part 10096869

    #NI07

    All parts diagram

    Refrigerator Technical Sheet

    Part #10096869

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Kenmore Refrigerator 59671274101 FAQs

Yes. A bottom-mount refrigerator like the Kenmore 59671274101 is a good choice if you want everyday fresh-food items at eye level and don’t want to bend as often for the refrigerator section; the tradeoff is that the freezer is lower and these designs often cost more than basic top-freezer models.

What “good” means for a bottom-mount design

Bottom-mount (bottom-freezer) refrigerators are built around convenience for the refrigerator compartment, where most people access food the most.

Common advantages

  • Fresh-food shelves are higher, so you reach less and bend less
  • Wide refrigerator compartment makes it easier to organize groceries
  • Freezer drawers/baskets can hold bulky frozen items
  • Often includes features like better airflow management and adjustable storage

Common drawbacks

  • You bend more to access the freezer drawer
  • Freezer organization depends on baskets and dividers (items can stack)
  • Typically higher purchase price than many top-freezer models

Quick comparison: bottom-mount vs. top-freezer

Feature Bottom-mount refrigerator Top-freezer refrigerator
Fresh-food access Easier (eye level) Lower (more bending)
Freezer access Lower drawer Upper door
Organization style Drawers and baskets Shelves and door bins
Typical cost Higher Lower

How to decide if it’s right for your kitchen

These checks help you decide if a bottom-mount refrigerator is the better fit.

  • Measure doorways and the install space (width, height, depth, and door swing)
  • Think about who uses the freezer most (kids, meal prep, bulk frozen storage)
  • Consider ergonomics: frequent fridge use favors bottom-mount
  • Check for ice maker and water filter needs (if equipped)
  • Plan for airflow clearance behind and above the cabinet opening

Why it matters

Refrigerator layout affects daily comfort, food organization, and energy use habits. If you access fresh food far more than frozen food, a bottom-mount design usually feels more convenient over the life of the appliance.

For maintenance and common water/ice care tips that apply to many Kenmore refrigerators, use how to replace the water filter in a Kenmore refrigerator.

Last updated: February 2026

The SY EF code on a Kenmore refrigerator (including model 59671274101) points to an evaporator fan circuit problem. In most cases, the control is not sensing the evaporator fan running correctly, so cooling performance can drop and temperatures can rise.

What SY EF usually means

SY EF is most commonly tied to airflow in the freezer section, where the evaporator fan moves cold air across the evaporator coil and into the refrigerator compartment.

Common causes include:

  • Ice buildup blocking the evaporator fan blade
  • A failed evaporator fan motor
  • Loose, damaged, or corroded wiring at the fan or control
  • A door left ajar causing heavy frost and fan interference
  • A control or sensor input issue (less common)

Quick checks you can do safely

Before any hands-on checks, unplug the refrigerator to avoid shock and moving fan blades.

  • Power reset: Unplug for 5 minutes, plug back in, and see if the code returns.
  • Listen for the fan: With the unit running, you should typically hear a steady fan sound from the freezer area.
  • Check for frost: Heavy frost on the freezer back wall often indicates a defrost or airflow issue.
  • Inspect door sealing: Make sure the freezer door closes fully and the gasket is sealing.
  • Improve airflow: Avoid blocking vents with food packages.

What to do if the code comes back

If SY EF returns after a reset, the next step is usually to inspect the evaporator fan area for ice obstruction and confirm the fan runs when the compressor is running (or when the door switch is held closed, depending on design).

Symptom Most likely issue What it affects
Loud buzzing or clicking from freezer Fan blade hitting ice Airflow, cooling consistency
Warm fridge, freezer sort of cold Weak/no evaporator airflow Fresh food temps rise
Heavy frost on freezer back panel Defrost system problem Fan can get blocked by ice

Why it matters

The evaporator fan is what distributes cold air. When it is blocked by ice or not running, the refrigerator section often warms up first, even if the freezer still feels somewhat cold.

For model-family troubleshooting steps and related display codes, use our DIY reference: Kenmore 795 model bottom freezer refrigerator error codes.

Last updated: February 2026

Most bottom freezer refrigerators are roughly 24 to 33 inches wide, 65 to 69 inches tall, and 24 to 33 inches deep. For your Kenmore 59671274101 bottom-mount refrigerator, use those ranges for planning, then measure your cabinet opening and door swing for the best fit.

Typical size ranges (what to expect)

Bottom freezer (bottom-mount) refrigerators commonly fall into these ranges:

  • Width: 24 to 33 inches
  • Height: 65 to 69 inches
  • Depth: 24 to 33 inches (depth varies most by handle style and door design)
  • Capacity (typical): about 18 to 25 cubic feet

How to measure your space correctly

To avoid clearance problems, we measure the space and the path the refrigerator must travel.

  • Measure opening width, height, and depth in at least 2 to 3 spots (floors and walls are rarely perfectly square).
  • Leave airflow clearance behind and above the refrigerator (a common target is 1 inch, but follow your installation requirements).
  • Confirm door swing clearance so doors and freezer drawer open fully.
  • Measure entry doors, hallways, and turns for delivery.
  • If you have an ice maker or water dispenser, plan for water line clearance and access.

Quick reference table

What you’re measuring What to include Common mistake
Width Cabinet opening and trim Forgetting baseboards or side trim
Height Floor to cabinet/soffit Not accounting for leveling feet
Depth Wall to front edge Ignoring handles and door clearance
Door swing Space in front and to the side Not allowing room for drawers to pull out

Why it matters

A bottom-mount refrigerator that is even 1 inch too wide or too deep can prevent proper airflow, limit door opening, or keep the unit from sliding into place. Measuring first helps protect cooling performance and avoids installation headaches.

If you’re also troubleshooting features while planning a replacement or reinstall, we use these guides often:

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

If the temperature in your refrigerator doesn't match the temperature you set, the problem could be the temperature cont…

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your refrigerators

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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How to Replace the Water Filter in a Universal/Multiflex Refrigerator

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Troubleshooting a refrigerator not cooling video

Troubleshooting a refrigerator not cooling video

Learn what to check if the inside of your fridge is wayyyy too warm.…

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