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Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 refrigerator

Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for FRS26LF7DS7 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Freezer Door for Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 - Part 240554225

    Freezer door diagram

    Refrigerator Freezer Door

    Part #240554225

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Arm for Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 - Part 3206333

    Ice maker diagram

    Arm

    Part #3206333

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Water Filter Rod Retainer for Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 - Part 240397401

    Controls diagram

    Refrigerator Water Filter Rod Retainer

    Part #240397401

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Frigidaire Refrigerator FRS26LF7DS7 FAQs

To reset your Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 side-by-side refrigerator, unplug it (or switch off the breaker) for about 5 to 10 minutes, then restore power and allow temperatures to stabilize. If you are resetting after a filter change, also reset the filter status indicator per the FRS26LF7DS7 owner’s manual.

Quick reset steps (power reset)

  • Turn the freezer and fresh food controls to “0” (this stops cooling but does not remove power).
  • Unplug the refrigerator from the wall outlet (preferred) or turn off the circuit breaker.
  • Wait 5 to 10 minutes.
  • Restore power.
  • Set temperatures back to your normal settings.
  • Allow 8 to 12 hours for full cool-down after a reset or power interruption.

If you replaced the water filter

Your FRS26LF7DS7 uses a filter status light that turns red after about 400 gallons or typically every 6 to 9 months. After installing a new filter, reset the indicator so it tracks the new cartridge correctly.

What a reset will and won’t fix

Situation Reset helps? What to check next
Control glitch, lights acting odd, dispenser not responding Yes Power reset, then verify settings
Not cooling after reset Sometimes Dirty condenser, door seal leaks, airflow blockage
Ice maker not making ice Sometimes Water supply, freezer temp, ice maker components
Filter light is red after filter change No (by itself) Reset filter indicator and purge air

Why it matters

A power reset clears minor electronic hiccups and restarts the cooling cycle, but it does not correct underlying issues like a dirty condenser, a leaking door gasket, or restricted airflow. Resetting the filter indicator also helps protect water quality and dispenser performance.

Last updated: January 2026

When a Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 side-by-side freezer is not freezing, the most common causes are restricted airflow (overloading or blocked vents), poor heat release at the condenser (dirty coils), or a door that is not sealing. Start with airflow, door seal, and temperature settings in the FRS26LF7DS7 owner's manual.

Quick checks that fix many “not freezing” complaints

  • Make sure the freezer door closes fully and stays closed.
  • Leave space between packages so cold air can circulate; tightly packed food slows freezing.
  • Avoid adding a lot of warm food at once; it overloads the freezer and raises temperatures.
  • Move hard-to-freeze items (ice cream, juice) off the door shelves and into the freezer interior.
  • Confirm the refrigerator is not next to heat sources (oven, direct sunlight, heating vents).

If the ice maker is also not making ice

Your manual notes that the ice maker will not make ice if the freezer is not cold enough. If water dispenses slowly, a clogged filter can also reduce ice production.

What to inspect next (in order)

What you notice Most likely area What to do first
Freezer warm, fridge also warm Condenser airflow/dirty coils Clean coils and ensure condenser fan area is clear
Frost buildup, weak airflow Defrost system issue Check for heavy frost; inspect defrost components
Door pops open or moisture/frost near doors Door gasket/seal Inspect gasket for gaps, tears, or warping
Freezer only warms when heavily loaded Airflow/overloading Repack with air gaps; move items off door

Why it matters

A side-by-side like the FRS26LF7DS7 depends on steady airflow and a tight door seal to keep the evaporator cold. When airflow is blocked or warm air leaks in, temperatures rise quickly and food will not freeze properly.

Last updated: January 2026

The most common Frigidaire refrigerator complaint is not cooling properly (fresh food warm, freezer warming, or temperatures swinging). On the Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7, this is often tied to airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, door seal leaks, or a defrost system issue; our FRS26LF7DS7 owner's manual troubleshooting chart covers these checks.

Most common symptoms customers notice

  • Refrigerator section is warm but freezer seems OK (or the reverse)
  • Unit runs too long or almost constantly
  • Frost buildup on the freezer back wall
  • Ice maker or water dispenser performance drops after temperature issues start
  • Moisture or sweating inside the compartments

Quick checks we recommend first (in order)

  • Confirm controls: Make sure the freezer control is not set to “0” and temperatures are set correctly; allow 24 hours for changes to stabilize.
  • Check door sealing: Look for gaps, torn gasket, or doors not closing fully; a leaking seal makes the compressor run longer.
  • Clean the condenser: A dirty condenser can cause long run times and poor cooling.
  • Look for airflow blockage: Do not pack items against vents; keep space around the damper and return vents.
  • Watch for defrost clues: Heavy frost on the freezer back panel points to a defrost problem (heater, defrost thermostat, timer/control).

What “not cooling” usually means and what to inspect

What you see Most likely area What to do next
Warm temps and long run time Dirty condenser, poor ventilation Clean coils; verify airflow around cabinet
Frost on freezer back wall Defrost system Defrost manually to restore airflow, then diagnose components
Door won’t seal or pops open Door alignment or gasket Inspect gasket; correct leveling and door closure
Cooling OK but water/ice weak Filter or water supply Replace filter and purge air from lines

Parts that commonly relate to these problems

Why it matters

When cooling is weak, the refrigerator compensates by running longer. That increases energy use, can lead to food-safety temperature problems, and can accelerate wear on components like the compressor and fans.

Last updated: January 2026

A flashing H or HI on your Frigidaire FRS26LF7DS7 means the refrigerator or freezer temperature has been too warm for about an hour. This most often happens when a door is left ajar or the door gasket is not sealing, so the unit triggers a high-temp alarm.

What to check first (fast fixes)

  • Make sure both doors fully close and nothing inside is blocking them.
  • Check the door seal for gaps, tears, or areas that are not gripping the cabinet.
  • Close the doors and allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after a warm event.
  • Reduce door openings while the refrigerator recovers.
  • Confirm the temperature settings are at normal operating levels (typical targets: 0°F freezer, 37°F fresh food).
  • Clean dust from the condenser area if airflow is restricted.

Door gasket quick test

A poor seal is the most common reason the high-temp alarm returns.

Test What to do What it means
Paper-strip test Close the door on a sheet of paper and pull Easy pull = weak seal at that spot
Visual check Look for ripples, hardened sections, or gaps Deformed gasket can leak warm air
Alignment check Verify doors are level and not sagging Misalignment can prevent sealing

If you find a damaged seal, match the correct gasket to the door: refrigerator gasket 241786013 or refrigerator gasket 241786014.

If the H/HI comes back after doors are sealed

  • Verify the condenser fan and evaporator fan are running; poor airflow can keep temps high.
  • Listen for normal compressor operation (a steady hum is typical).
  • If the freezer is cold but the fresh food section is warm, an air damper or airflow issue is likely.
  • If you see heavy frost on the freezer back wall, a defrost problem is likely; the refrigerator defrost bi-metal thermostat 5303918214 is one common part involved in defrost sensing.

For control display behavior, alarm tones, and temperature recovery guidance specific to FRS26LF7DS7, use the FRS26LF7DS7 owner's manual.

Why it matters

When the refrigerator runs warm for an extended period, food safety and ice production are affected, and the compressor may run longer than normal. Fixing door sealing and airflow issues quickly helps the unit return to stable temperatures.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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