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Kenmore 2539264111 upright freezer

Kenmore 2539264111 upright freezer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 2539264111 upright freezer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 2539264111 Freestanding Freezers

  • Refrigerator Filter Dryer for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5303305677

    System diagram

    Filter Drier

    Part #216099900

    Replaced by #5303305677

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  • Freezer Compressor for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5304507765

    System diagram

    Compressor

    Part #5303925441

    Replaced by #5304507765

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  • Tappan Freezer Drain Hose Adapter for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5304511843

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Drain Hose Adapter

    Part #5308005500

    Replaced by #5304511843

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  • White-westinghouse Freezer Shelf Support for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 297001600

    System diagram

    Support

    Part #3091418

    Replaced by #297001600

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  • White-westinghouse Freezer Shelf Support for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 297001500

    System diagram

    Support

    Part #08037928

    Replaced by #297001500

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  • Appliance Leveling Leg for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 216396900

    Cabinet diagram

    Appliance Leveling Leg

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  • Screw for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5303161215

    Door diagram

    Screw

    Part #5303161215

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Appliance Touch-up Paint, 0.6-oz (white) for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5303321319

    #NI

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    Touch Paint

    Part #5303305324

    Replaced by #5303321319

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  • Frigidaire Freezer Shelf Trim for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5304509722

    System diagram

    Molding

    Part #216097800

    Replaced by #5304509722

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  • Refrigerator Light Switch for Kenmore 2539264111 - Part 5309918806

    Cabinet diagram

    Refrigerator Light Switch

    Part #5309918806
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Kenmore Upright Freezer 2539264111 FAQs

Most Kenmore upright freezers, including model 2539264111, do not have a single dedicated “reset” button. A practical reset is to power-cycle the freezer (unplug, wait, then restore power) and then confirm the temperature control is set correctly; if the control is unresponsive, the issue is usually a control, switch, or wiring problem.

How to reset (power-cycle) your Kenmore 2539264111
  • Unplug the freezer (or switch the breaker off).
  • Wait 5 minutes to let the control board and compressor protection timer fully reset.
  • Plug it back in (or turn the breaker on).
  • Set the temperature back to your normal setting.
  • Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize after any reset or setting change.
What to check if it still will not run or cool
  • Power at the outlet: verify the outlet works and the cord is firmly seated.
  • Interior light and door switch: a failed switch can cause odd symptoms on some designs; see refrigerator light switch 5309918806.
  • Door sealing and airflow: make sure the door closes fully and vents are not blocked by packages.
  • Frost buildup: heavy frost can indicate a defrost issue and restrict airflow.
  • Compressor start and run: if you hear clicking or humming with no cooling, the sealed system or compressor circuit may need service; the compressor for this model is compressor 5304507765.
Quick symptom guide
What you notice What it usually means Best next step
Display/buttons do nothing Control not getting power or locked up Power-cycle 5 minutes; check outlet
Clicking every few minutes Compressor trying to start Schedule service; check compressor circuit
Runs constantly, warm inside Airflow blocked or frost issue Clear vents; check for frost buildup
Light stays off when door opens Door switch or bulb issue Test switch; replace if failed
Why it matters

A “reset” often clears a temporary control glitch, but repeated warm temperatures usually point to airflow problems, a door seal issue, or a failing compressor or electrical component. Resetting without checking these can delay a real fix and risk food thawing.

Last updated: January 2026

The most common issues we see with the Kenmore 2539264111 upright freezer are warm temperatures, heavy frost buildup, unusual noises, and interior light problems. These symptoms usually trace back to airflow restrictions, dirty condenser components, door sealing issues, or a failing cooling-system component.

Common symptoms and what they usually point to
  • Freezer not cold enough: dirty condenser coil, poor airflow, or a sealed-system problem (compressor or refrigerant circuit)
  • Heavy frost on the back wall or shelves: door left ajar, weak door seal, or defrost airflow issues
  • Loud humming, buzzing, or rattling: compressor vibration, cabinet contact, or condenser area debris
  • Runs constantly: dirty condenser coil, warm room conditions, frequent door openings, or door not sealing
  • Light not working: failed bulb or door/light switch
Quick checks you can do first
  1. Set the control colder and give it 24 hours to stabilize.
  2. Confirm the door closes fully; check for packages blocking the door.
  3. Clean dust from the condenser area; restricted airflow is a top cause of warm temps.
  4. Listen for the condenser fan area (if equipped) and check for obstructions.
  5. If the light is out, test the bulb and switch.
Parts that commonly relate to these problems

If your troubleshooting points to a specific failure, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

Symptom Likely area Example part for this model
Warm temps, long run time Heat rejection Freezer condenser coil 5300123788
No/weak cooling, loud hum Sealed system Compressor 5304507765
Light stays off or won’t turn off Door switch circuit Refrigerator light switch 5309918806
Light out Lamp Lamp bulb 5304517886
Why it matters

Warm temperatures and constant running can lead to food spoilage and higher energy use. Frost buildup reduces usable space and blocks airflow, which makes the freezer work harder and can shorten compressor life.

Last updated: March 2026

For Kenmore upright freezer model 2539264111, the exact “size” depends on what you mean: capacity (cubic feet) or physical dimensions (height, width, depth). Most Kenmore upright freezers in this model family are typically 15 to 18 cubic feet and about 28 to 32 inches wide, but confirm the rating label for the precise spec.

What “size” usually means (and where to find it)

We recommend checking the model and serial tag inside the cabinet (often on a side wall) for the most accurate capacity and electrical rating.

  • Capacity is listed in cubic feet (cu. ft.)
  • Dimensions are listed in inches (H x W x D)
  • Electrical info (volts/amps) is also on the tag
  • Retail listings for other models (even close numbers) can be misleading
Typical size ranges for an upright freezer like 2539264111

These ranges help when planning space, moving, or comparing models.

Spec type Typical range for upright freezers What to measure/check
Capacity 15 to 18 cu. ft. Rating label or product spec sheet
Width 28 to 32 in. Outside cabinet, not including door swing
Height 60 to 67 in. Floor to top hinge cover area
Depth 28 to 32 in. Include door and handle if installed
Quick measuring tips (so you get the right fit)
  • Measure width at the widest point, often the hinge side or handle side.
  • Measure depth with the door closed, and include the handle if it sticks out.
  • Allow at least 1 inch behind the freezer for airflow (more is better if the condenser is rear-mounted).
  • Plan for door swing clearance so baskets and shelves can slide out.
Why it matters

Getting the correct size prevents installation headaches (tight door swing, poor ventilation, or a freezer that will not fit through doorways). It also helps you choose compatible replacement items like shelves, trim, and door hardware.

If you are matching parts to your exact unit, use the model tag and then select parts listed for 2539264111, such as the parts catalog 5995297065.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your freestanding freezers

Choose a symptom to see related freezer repairs.

Main causes: dirty condenser coils, condenser fan failure, dirty bottom front grill, leaky door or lid gasket…

Main causes: lack of power, control system failure, broken compressor start relay, locked up compressor, compressor moto…

Main causes: leaky door or lid gasket, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, defrost control failure, …

Main causes: lack of power, bad compressor, refrigerant leak, bad thermistor, defrost system failure, dirty condenser co…

Main causes: damaged door or lid gasket, cracked cabinet liner, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, …

Main causes: burned out light bulb, bad door or lid switch, faulty LED light board, wiring failure, control system failu…

Main causes: compressor failure, no refrigerant, faulty sensor, control failure, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-m…

Main causes: excessive frost, bad defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal, control system failure, low refrigerant charge, …

Repair guides for upright freezers

How to replace a freezer electronic control board

How to replace a freezer electronic control board

The electronic control board manages the compressor to control freezer temperature. Replace the control board using the…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less
How to replace a freezer thermistor

How to replace a freezer thermistor

When the thermistor can’t sense the freezer temperature, the freezer is colder or warmer than the set temperature. Follo…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less
How to replace a freezer door switch

How to replace a freezer door switch

When the door switch fails, the freezer can’t detect that the door is closed. Follow the steps in this repair guide to r…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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