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Kenmore Elite 25328712802 freezer

Kenmore Elite 25328712802 freezer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 freezer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 25328712802 Freestanding Freezers

  • Refrigerator Screw for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 240578902

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Tamper-proof Screw, 1/4-20 X 5/8-in

    Part #297236200

    Replaced by #240578902

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  • Freezer Basket Slide Rail for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 297013500

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Basket Slide Rail

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  • Tappan Freezer Drain Hose Adapter for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 5304511843

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Drain Hose Adapter

    Part #5308005500

    Replaced by #5304511843

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  • Refrigerator Door Bin for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part A00299203

    Door diagram

    Door Bin

    Part #297187200

    Replaced by #A00299203

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  • Appliance Leveling Leg for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 216396900

    Cabinet diagram

    Appliance Leveling Leg

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  • Appliance Touch-up Paint, 0.6-oz (white) for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 5303321319

    Cabinet diagram

    Touch Paint

    Part #5303305324

    Replaced by #5303321319

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  • Freezer Screw for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 5304460605

    Freezer Screw

    Part #5304460605

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Freezer Condenser Coil for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 5300083897

    System diagram

    Freezer Condenser Coil

    Part #5300083897
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  • Armor Flex for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 125963-48

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Drain Tube Insulation

    Part #297001704

    Replaced by #125963-48

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  • Freezer Basket Bumper for Kenmore Elite 25328712802 - Part 5305878546

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Basket Bumper

    Part #5305878546
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Kenmore Elite Freezer 25328712802 FAQs

Kenmore Elite upright freezer model 25328712802 does not use a dedicated “reset button.” If the control panel is acting up, we reset it by cycling power (unplugging briefly, then plugging back in) and then re-setting the temperature using the UP and DOWN symbols described in the 25328712802 use & care guide.

How to reset the freezer safely

  • Unplug the freezer (or switch off the circuit breaker).
  • Wait about 5 minutes to let the control board fully power down.
  • Restore power.
  • Set the temperature using the UP (colder) and DOWN (warmer) symbols.
  • Allow several hours for temperatures to stabilize after any adjustment.

If the controls are locked (it looks like it will not change settings)

This model can lock the temperature control to prevent accidental changes.

  • Press and hold Alarm Reset for 3 seconds to lock or unlock.
  • When locked, an indicator may appear on the display.

What to do if you see an error or alarms

If the freezer is warming up or alarming, address the cause first, then reset by cycling power.

Symptom What it usually means What we recommend
“HI TEMP” light on or buzzer sounds Freezer temperature rose above the alarm threshold Press Alarm Reset to silence; check door seal and airflow
Display shows “0” Freezer is set to OFF Press UP to turn it back on and choose a setting
Display shows an “E” Control detected a fault Cycle power once; if it returns, schedule service

Why it matters

A “reset” only clears the control’s state; it does not fix common root causes like a door left ajar, heavy frost buildup, or a weak door seal. If warm air is leaking in, inspect and clean the gasket; replace it if it is torn or not sealing evenly (see freezer door gasket 5304507200).

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore Elite freezer model 25328712802 isn’t cooling and you hear repeated clicking, loud start attempts, or the compressor never runs, the compressor circuit (start components, wiring, or the compressor itself) is likely failing. Use the troubleshooting and safety steps in the 25328712802 use and care guide before testing.

Quick checks before you blame the compressor

  • Confirm the freezer is plugged into a properly grounded outlet (not a wall switch controlled outlet).
  • Make sure the temperature control is not set to OFF (OFF stops the compressor but does not remove power).
  • Allow a full cool-down period after startup; most freezers need about 4 hours to cool completely.
  • Reduce door openings and verify the door seals; warm air leaks can mimic compressor problems.
  • Listen: a steady hum can be normal; repeated clicking every few minutes often points to a start issue.

What to test (in order)

Always unplug the freezer before accessing components.

  1. Start relay and overload: A failed relay/overload is a common reason a compressor will not start.
  2. Power to the compressor: Check for loose or burned wiring at the compressor terminals.
  3. Compressor windings: If the relay/overload tests good, check compressor winding resistance and shorts to ground.
  4. System symptoms: If the compressor runs but cooling is weak, look for frost pattern issues at the evaporator and airflow problems.

Common symptoms and what they usually mean

Symptom Most likely cause Next step
Clicks repeatedly, won’t run Start relay/overload or compressor locked Test relay/overload first
Runs constantly, still warm Airflow/defrost issue or sealed system problem Check evaporator frost and fan
Runs, cabinet walls warm Often normal during operation Monitor temps after 4 hours
No sound at all Control, power supply, or wiring issue Verify outlet and control settings

Parts that may be involved

If testing points to a failed compressor or start circuit, these model-matched parts are commonly replaced during diagnosis or repair:

Why it matters

A freezer that is not cooling can be caused by door sealing, airflow, defrost problems, or electrical start components. Checking the simple items first prevents replacing a compressor when the real issue is a relay, control, or operating condition.

Last updated: January 2026

If your Kenmore Elite upright freezer 25328712802 is running but not freezing, the most common causes are incorrect temperature control settings, poor airflow from frequent door openings or a door that is not sealing, or a defrost or sealed-system problem that prevents the evaporator from removing heat. Use the 25328712802 owner's manual troubleshooting steps first.

Quick checks we recommend first

  • Confirm the temperature control is not set to OFF (OFF stops the compressor but does not fully disconnect power).
  • Make sure the freezer is firmly plugged in; check for a tripped breaker or blown fuse.
  • Limit door openings and verify the door closes fully.
  • Check that the freezer is level; an unlevel cabinet can keep the door from sealing.
  • Allow time after loading warm food; the freezer may run longer to pull temperatures down.
  • Make sure there is enough space around the cabinet for air circulation.

Most likely causes and what to look for

What you notice Likely area What to do next
Freezer runs a lot, temps still warm Door not sealing, airflow issue Inspect gasket for gaps, dirt, or damage; clean and reseat
Heavy frost on back wall or inside panel Defrost system issue Check defrost components; consider testing with a multimeter
Runs but no cold air movement inside Evaporator fan issue Listen for fan; inspect fan area for ice buildup
Warm cabinet sides during operation Normal heat transfer Ensure ventilation space; this can be normal during cooling

Parts that commonly fix “not freezing” symptoms

These are model-matched parts we often see involved when cooling performance drops:

Why it matters

A freezer that is not freezing is often a simple setup or sealing issue, but if frost builds up or airflow stops, temperatures can rise quickly and food can thaw. Catching a door-seal or defrost problem early also helps prevent excessive run time and strain on the compressor.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your freestanding freezers

Choose a symptom to see related freezer repairs.

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Main causes: lack of power, control system failure, broken compressor start relay, locked up compressor, compressor moto…

Main causes: leaky door or lid gasket, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, defrost control failure, …

Main causes: lack of power, bad compressor, refrigerant leak, bad thermistor, defrost system failure, dirty condenser co…

Main causes: damaged door or lid gasket, cracked cabinet liner, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, …

Main causes: burned out light bulb, bad door or lid switch, faulty LED light board, wiring failure, control system failu…

Main causes: compressor failure, no refrigerant, faulty sensor, control failure, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-m…

Main causes: excessive frost, bad defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal, control system failure, low refrigerant charge, …

Repair guides for upright freezers

How to replace a freezer evaporator fan

How to replace a freezer evaporator fan

Air won’t circulate to cool the freezer properly when the evaporator fan fails. Follow these step-by-step instructions t…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less
How to replace a freezer door switch

How to replace a freezer door switch

When the door switch fails, the freezer can’t detect that the door is closed. Follow the steps in this repair guide to r…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to replace a freezer LED light board

How to replace a freezer LED light board

The LED lights illuminate the interior of the freezer when you open the door. It takes just a few minutes to replace the…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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