Samsung RF28HFEDTSR/AA-01 refrigerator Parts

A 28 cu. ft. refrigerator is usually built on a 36-inch-wide cabinet and commonly lands around 69 to 70 inches tall and roughly 34 to 36 inches deep (depth varies most by door style and whether handles are included). For your Samsung RF28HFEDTSR, confirm the exact cutout and clearance guidance in the RF28HFEDTSR manual.

Typical size range you can plan around

Most 28 cu. ft. units (especially French door and side-by-side styles) fall into these planning ranges:

• Width: 35 3/4 to 36 inches
• Height: 69 to 70 inches
• Depth: 34 to 36 inches (often listed without handles)
• Door swing clearance: varies by hinge design and handle depth

Measurement	Typical planning range	What changes it most
Width	35 3/4 to 36 in.	cabinet class (36-in. standard)
Height	69 to 70 in.	hinge cover, leveling legs
Depth	34 to 36 in.	handles, door thickness, standard-depth vs counter-depth

How we recommend measuring your space

Use a tape measure and capture these numbers before ordering or moving a refrigerator:

• Opening width at the front and back (some alcoves taper)
• Opening height to the lowest cabinet or soffit
• Depth from the back wall to the front edge of counters
• Pathway clearance (doorways, turns, stairs)
• Extra room for door swing and airflow behind/above the cabinet

Why it matters

A “28 cu. ft.” capacity does not guarantee identical exterior dimensions. Depth and door clearance are the most common surprises, and they affect whether drawers open fully and whether doors can swing without hitting walls.

If you are also planning water and ice hookup details, our how to change the water filter in a Samsung refrigerator guide can help you understand filter access and service space.

Last updated: January 2026

If your Samsung RF28HFEDTSR bottom-mount refrigerator is not making ice, the most common causes are restricted water supply (filter or valve), the ice maker being turned off or jammed, or freezer temperatures that are too warm to freeze and harvest cubes. Use the RF28HFEDTSR manual to confirm control settings and the ice maker reset steps for your exact model.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Make sure the ice maker is turned ON and not in a test or off mode.
• Confirm the ice bin is seated correctly and not overfilled or blocked by clumped ice.
• Check the freezer is cold enough; ice makers typically struggle if the freezer is above about 10°F.
• Verify the water supply valve to the refrigerator is fully open.
• Dispense water (if your model has a dispenser) to confirm you have steady water flow.

Water supply issues (most common)

A clogged water filter or a weak water inlet valve can reduce flow so the ice maker mold never fills.

• If water flow is slow, replace the filter and purge air from the line.
• If the filter is new but flow is still weak, the inlet valve or supply line may be restricted or frozen.

Helpful DIY reading: how to change the water filter in a Samsung refrigerator

Ice maker and freezer condition checks

Even with good water flow, ice production can stop if the ice maker cannot cycle or the freezer cannot maintain temperature.

• Look for frost buildup around the ice maker fill tube (a sign of freezing or seepage).
• Check for a stuck ejector or jammed cubes; clear the jam and re-test.
• Listen for the ice maker cycling; no movement can point to an ice maker module or control issue.

Symptoms and what they usually mean

What you notice	Likely cause	What to do next
No ice, no water fill sound	No water supply or valve issue	Check shutoff valve, filter, inlet valve
Small/hollow cubes	Low water flow	Replace filter, check inlet valve
Ice clumps in bin	Partial melting or warm freezer	Verify door seal, temps, airflow
Frost near fill tube	Fill tube freezing	Defrost area, check valve seepage

Why it matters

When ice production stops, it is often an early sign of low water flow or temperature drift. Fixing it quickly helps prevent repeated jams, frozen fill tubes, and inconsistent cube size.

Last updated: January 2026

For Samsung model RF28HFEDTSR, the most reliable way to defrost is a manual power-off defrost: unplug the refrigerator, open the doors, and let the ice melt naturally. The exact “force defrost” key sequence is not something we can confirm for RF28HFEDTSR based on model-specific information, so we stick with the safe method and the guidance in the RF28HFEDTSR manual.

Manual defrost steps (safe for RF28HFEDTSR)

• Move food to a cooler; keep doors closed as much as possible while loading.
• Turn the ice maker off (if equipped) and empty the ice bin.
• Unplug the refrigerator (or switch off the dedicated breaker).
• Open the fresh food doors and the freezer drawer.
• Place towels at the base; wipe up meltwater as needed.
• Let all frost melt; then dry the interior and restart.

What not to do

• Do not chip ice with knives, screwdrivers, or picks.
• Do not use a heat gun or open flame.
• Do not pour boiling water on plastic liners.

If frost keeps returning (what to check next)

Repeated icing usually points to an airflow or defrost-system issue rather than a one-time need to thaw.

• Make sure air vents are not blocked by food packages.
• Check that doors close fully and gaskets are clean.
• Look for heavy frost behind the rear interior panel (evaporator cover).
• Confirm the unit is level and not rocking (door alignment affects sealing).
• Clean condenser coils and ensure airflow around the cabinet.

Why it matters

A heavy frost buildup can block airflow across the evaporator, causing warm temperatures, longer run times, and poor ice production.

Defrost approach	When to use it	Typical time
Power-off manual defrost	Any RF28HFEDTSR with heavy frost/ice	4 to 24 hours
Door-open “quick thaw” (powered on)	Light frost only (not solid ice)	1 to 4 hours

Last updated: January 2026