GE JGP336BEV2BB gas cooktop Parts

On a GE gas cooktop like model JGP336BEV2BB, the model number is printed on a rating label attached to the cooktop chassis. We typically find it on the underside of the cooktop, inside the cabinet below, or around the burner box area after lifting grates and burner parts.

Most common places to check

• Underside of the cooktop (look up from inside the base cabinet with a flashlight)
• Inside the cabinet below the cooktop on a side wall or the bottom panel
• Around the burner box area (after removing grates and burner caps, once everything is cool)
• Near the gas connection/regulator area under the cooktop
• On the cooktop frame lip (sometimes visible when you open the cabinet doors and look up)

Quick, safe way to look (no disassembly)

1. Turn all knobs to OFF and let the cooktop cool completely.
2. Open the cabinet doors below the cooktop.
3. Use a flashlight and look up at the underside for a sticker or metal tag.
4. Write down the full model number exactly as shown (letters and numbers).

If you still cannot see the label

You may need a clearer view of the underside. If the cooktop must be lifted, we recommend having a qualified technician handle it because gas and electrical connections can be involved.

Helpful tip

If you are replacing a missing or damaged knob while you are identifying the model, match the knob style and stem fit to the correct part for this cooktop, such as the cooktop burner knob WB3K5295.

What the label usually includes

Label item	What it’s used for
Model number (example: JGP336BEV2BB)	Ensures parts fit your exact cooktop
Serial number	Helps identify production run and revisions
Gas type info	Confirms natural gas vs LP conversion setup

Why it matters

GE cooktops often have multiple versions that look similar. Using the exact model number helps us match the correct burner grate, igniter, valve, or pressure regulator so the part fits and works safely.

Last updated: February 2026

On the GE gas cooktop model JGP336BEV2BB, the surface-burner igniter sits right next to the burner head, under the burner cap area. When you lift off the grate and remove the burner cap, you will see a small ceramic-and-metal spark electrode at the edge of the burner base.

How to locate it (top-side access)

1. Make sure all knobs are OFF and the cooktop is cool.
2. Lift off the burner grate.
3. Remove the burner cap.
4. Look at the burner base area; the igniter electrode is the small “spark post” positioned beside the burner ports.

What the igniter looks like

Typical GE surface-burner igniters have these features:

• A small white ceramic insulator (often pencil-eraser sized)
• A metal tip where the spark jumps
• Positioned a few millimeters from the burner head
• One per burner (each burner has its own electrode)

Quick troubleshooting while you are there

If the burner clicks but will not light, check these common issues first:

• Burner cap not seated flat (realign it)
• Wet or dirty burner cap or burner base (dry and clean)
• Food spill blocking gas ports (clear ports gently)
• Cracked ceramic igniter tip (replace the igniter)
• Weak spark or no spark (wiring, spark module, or igniter problem)

Symptom	Most common cause	What to do next
Clicking, no flame	Wet/dirty burner parts	Clean and dry cap and base
No clicking	Power supply issue or failed ignition circuit	Check outlet, then inspect wiring
Spark but lights slowly	Misaligned cap or clogged ports	Reseat cap; clear ports

Why it matters

The igniter’s position is critical because the spark must land in the gas stream at the burner edge. If the cap is off-center or ports are blocked, the burner may click continuously, light late, or not light at all.

If you need the replacement part for this model, use the exact GE surface-burner igniter listed for JGP336BEV2BB, such as the range surface burner igniter WB13K18.

Last updated: February 2026

On a GE gas cooktop like model JGP336BEV2BB, an igniter that keeps clicking usually means the spark system still “thinks” a burner is trying to light. The most common causes are moisture, food spills, or a stuck/dirty ignition switch at a knob or valve.

Quick checks that fix most constant clicking

• Turn all burner knobs to OFF and confirm they are fully seated.
• Dry the cooktop surface, burner caps, and around the igniter tips; moisture can keep the circuit active.
• Remove knobs and clean around the stems; grease can make the switch stick.
• Make sure burner caps and grates are seated correctly; misalignment can delay flame sensing.
• If clicking stops when you remove one knob, that knob area or switch is the likely culprit.

What to inspect (and what it points to)

What you notice	Most likely cause	What we recommend
Clicking after boil-over or cleaning	Moisture in igniter area or switch	Dry thoroughly; wait several hours if needed
Clicking only on one burner position	Dirty/stuck switch at that control	Clean around stem; check knob fit
Clicking continues with all knobs OFF	Stuck switch or valve issue	Isolate by removing knobs; service if needed
Weak flame or delayed ignition	Gas flow or burner alignment issue	Clean burner ports; verify cap placement

Parts that are commonly involved

If cleaning and drying do not stop the clicking, a failed igniter or a burner valve/switch assembly is often next.

• Range surface burner igniter WB13K18: the spark igniter that creates the clicking/sparking at the burner.
• Gas vlv med WB21X22069: the burner valve; ignition switching is commonly tied to the valve/knob area.

Why it matters

Continuous clicking can wear out the spark module and can indicate a spill or moisture path that keeps the ignition circuit energized. Fixing the root cause helps restore normal lighting and prevents repeat failures.

Last updated: February 2026

If your GE gas cooktop model JGP336BEV2BB is not working, the most common causes are a gas supply issue, a burner ignition problem (dirty or failed igniter), or a failed burner valve. Start with basic checks, then test ignition and gas flow at the affected burner.

Quick checks first (fastest fixes)

• Confirm another gas appliance in the home works (verifies gas supply).
• Make sure the burner cap and grate are seated correctly and dry.
• Clean the burner head ports with a soft brush; clear spills and grease.
• Try a different burner knob to rule out a cracked or stripped knob.
• If the igniter clicks but won’t light, try lighting that burner with a long match (if safe to do so).

What the symptoms usually mean

What you see	Most likely cause	What to do next
No clicking on any burner	Power issue (outlet, breaker, GFCI)	Restore power; ignition needs electricity
Clicking but no flame	Clogged burner ports or no gas to that burner	Clean ports; check valve/knob operation
Flame lights with match but not with igniter	Weak/failed igniter or dirty electrode	Clean and inspect; replace igniter if damaged
One burner dead, others OK	Burner valve or igniter issue at that burner	Inspect valve stem and igniter wiring

Parts that commonly solve “not working” on this model

These parts are often involved when a burner won’t ignite or won’t regulate gas correctly:

• Range surface burner igniter WB13K18 (spark/ignition at the burner)
• Gas vlv med WB21X22069 (controls gas flow for a burner)
• Pressure regulator WB19T10078 (helps maintain proper gas pressure to the cooktop)

Why it matters

A gas cooktop can fail from either side of the system: ignition (electric spark) or gas delivery (valves and regulation). Narrowing the symptom (no click, click/no flame, one burner vs. all burners) prevents replacing the wrong GE cooktop parts.

Last updated: February 2026