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Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 refrigerator
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Browse Parts for RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 Refrigerators

  • Refrigerator Cover for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 - Part DA63-06501A

    Right door diagram

    Refrigerator Cover

    Part #DA63-06501A

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Condenser Coil for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 - Part DA97-08464D

    Cabinet parts 2 diagram

    Refrigerator Condenser Coil

    Part #DA97-08464D

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Guard for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 - Part DA63-06499A

    Right door diagram

    Refrigerator Guard

    Part #DA63-06499A

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Freezer Door for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 - Part DA91-03633B

    Left door diagram

    Refrigerator Freezer Door

    Part #DA91-03633B

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Chassis Assembly for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 - Part DA97-07547C

    Cabinet parts 2 diagram

    Refrigerator Chassis Assembly

    Part #DA97-07547C

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Refrigerator Water Filter Housing for Samsung RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 - Part DA97-11527A

    Cabinet parts 1 diagram

    Refrigerator Water Filter Housing

    Part #DA97-11527A

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Samsung Refrigerator RSG307AAWP/XAA-00 FAQs

On the Samsung RSG307AAWP side-by-side refrigerator, RD (refrigerator defrost) runs a defrost cycle focused on the fresh food (refrigerator) evaporator, while FD (forced defrost) runs a broader defrost meant to melt heavier ice buildup that can affect cooling airflow, the freezer section, and the ice maker area. For exact button sequences and display behavior, use the owner's manual.

When to use RD vs. FD

Use the mode that matches where the frost problem is happening.

  • Use RD when the refrigerator section is warm but the freezer is mostly normal (common with a frosted fresh-food evaporator).
  • Use FD when you have widespread symptoms like fan noise from ice, poor airflow, or ice maker area icing.
  • Use FD if you suspect a frozen air channel or heavy frost that keeps returning quickly.
  • Stop and investigate if you see water leaking or pooling after defrost; a clogged drain is often involved.

What to expect during a forced defrost

A forced defrost is intentionally aggressive; it melts ice fast and can create water that must drain correctly.

  • You may hear beeping or see the display change while the cycle is active.
  • Water can drip into the drain system; keep towels handy near the front base if you have a history of leaks.
  • Remove and empty the ice bucket/bin first if your model configuration allows it.
  • After the cycle, allow time for temperatures to stabilize before judging results.

Quick comparison

Mode What it targets Best for Typical risk if a drain is clogged
RD Refrigerator evaporator area Fridge-only frost symptoms Water backing up into fresh food area
FD Broader defrost (multiple zones) Heavy ice, airflow issues, ice maker icing Water overflow, refreeze, recurring ice

Why it matters

Choosing RD vs. FD helps you melt the right ice buildup without over-defrosting the whole unit. If FD temporarily fixes the issue but frost returns, the root cause is usually airflow restriction, a defrost system problem, or a drain that is not clearing.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Samsung RSG307AAWP side-by-side refrigerator, the most common problems we see are cooling issues from frost or airflow restrictions, ice maker and dispenser troubles, and water leaks from a clogged drain system. Many of these symptoms are fixable with basic checks and the right replacement parts; see the owner's manual for model-specific operating and reset steps.

Most common symptoms (and what they usually point to)

  • Fridge warm, freezer cold: restricted airflow, frost buildup on the evaporator area, or a fan problem
  • Ice maker not making ice: frozen fill path, low water flow, or a failing ice maker assembly
  • Water under the fridge or in the fresh food section: clogged/iced defrost drain or drain tube
  • Buzzing, clicking, or grinding noises: fan blade hitting ice, worn fan motor, or compressor start components
  • Dim or no interior lights: LED board issue
  • Dispensing issues (slow water, no water): clogged filter or water line restriction

Quick checks we recommend before replacing parts

  1. Confirm temperature settings and allow 24 hours after any adjustment.
  2. Make sure vents inside both compartments are not blocked by food.
  3. Check door closure and gasket seal; warm air leaks drive frost and ice buildup.
  4. If water flow is slow, replace the filter and flush several gallons.
  5. If you see ice buildup or repeated leaking, inspect the drain path and consider a drain kit.

Parts that commonly solve these problems on RSG307AAWP

Problem Common fix Example part for this model
Slow water or bad taste/odor Replace water filter Refrigerator water filter DA29-00019A
Ice maker not working Replace ice maker assembly Samsung refrigerator ice maker assembly DA97-07549B
Leaks from defrost drain Replace/upgrade drain tube components Refrigerator drain tube kit DA97-04049E
No interior lights Replace LED light board Refrigerator interior led light board DA41-00676B

Why it matters

Cooling, ice, and leak symptoms often share the same root causes: airflow restrictions, frost buildup, and water flow problems. Addressing them early helps protect food, reduces ice accumulation, and prevents water damage.

For display messages and troubleshooting steps that match Samsung side-by-side designs, use Samsung rs30 and rsg307 models side by side refrigerator error codes.

Last updated: February 2026

The Samsung RSG307AAWP side-by-side refrigerator is a full-size model with about 29.6 cu. ft. of total capacity. For exact exterior measurements and clearance requirements (doors open, leveling legs, and airflow space), use the dimensions section in the RSG307AAWP owner's manual.

Size specs you can use for planning

These are the key “how big is it” specs most people need when measuring a kitchen opening:

  • Total capacity: about 29.6 cu. ft.
  • Typical width: about 38 inches
  • Typical height: about 74 inches
  • Typical depth: about 38 inches (often more with handles)
  • Space to allow: extra room behind and above for ventilation

Quick measurement checklist (before you buy or move it)

Measure these three areas so the refrigerator fits and the doors can swing:

  • Opening width at the front and back of the cabinet cutout
  • Opening height to the lowest cabinet or soffit
  • Depth from the back wall to the front edge of counters
  • Door swing clearance (especially near walls and islands)
  • Pathway clearance (doorways, hallways, and turns)

Typical dimensions vs. what to confirm in the manual

Use this as a planning guide, then confirm the exact numbers for your configuration.

What you’re measuring Planning range (typical) Confirm in manual
Width ~38 in. Overall width and door clearance
Height ~74 in. Height with hinges and leveling legs
Depth ~38 in. Depth with handles and doors

Why it matters

A side-by-side refrigerator like the RSG307AAWP needs more than just “box size.” Door swing, handle depth, and ventilation clearance affect whether it fits, cools properly, and avoids rubbing cabinets or walls.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Samsung RSG307AAWP refrigerator is running but not cooling, the problem is usually airflow or heat removal: blocked vents, heavy frost on the evaporator, dirty condenser coils, or a failed fan. Start with quick checks, then move to defrost and fan diagnostics using the owner's manual.

Quick checks (fast fixes first)

  • Make sure the temperature settings were not accidentally raised.
  • Confirm the doors fully close and the gaskets seal all the way around.
  • Clear packages away from interior air vents (especially the back wall).
  • Check for heavy frost or a solid ice sheet on the freezer back panel (airflow gets blocked).
  • Listen for the evaporator fan in the freezer; it should run when the compressor is running and the door switch is closed.
  • Clean condenser coils and make sure the unit has airflow at the back and underneath.

What to do based on the symptom

What you notice Most likely cause What we recommend
Freezer back wall is frosted over Defrost system issue or drain/airflow restriction Fully defrost, then check for recurring frost and airflow blockage
Fridge side warm, freezer “kind of” cold Evaporator fan not moving air Inspect fan area for ice; if fan is noisy or not running, plan a fan repair
Both sections warm but compressor runs Dirty coils, condenser airflow problem, or sealed-system issue Clean coils first; if no improvement, schedule service
Water under crisper or ice buildup near drain Clogged/iced drain Clear the drain; consider replacing the drain kit

Parts that commonly solve “runs but won’t cool”

If troubleshooting points to a specific failure, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

Why it matters

A refrigerator can sound “normal” while temperatures rise because the compressor can run without enough airflow across the evaporator or without enough heat being rejected at the condenser. Fixing airflow and defrost problems early prevents food spoilage and reduces strain on the compressor.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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