Whirlpool WRS322FDAB01 refrigerator Parts

Yes. The Whirlpool WRS322FDAB01 side-by-side refrigerator is designed to work with an ice maker; the user guide notes ice maker operation and even advises turning the ice maker off when the refrigerator is not connected to a water line. See the WRS322FDAB01 owner's manual for your exact setup.

Many WRS322FDAB01 units include the ice maker components, but installation can vary by configuration. Check for these signs:

• An ice bin or ice container in the freezer door or freezer compartment
• An ice maker module mounted on the freezer side wall
• A shutoff arm or on-off switch for the ice maker
• A fill tube aimed into the ice maker mold area
• A household water line connected to the refrigerator (required to make ice)

If you need the replacement assembly, we list the refrigerator ice maker assembly WPW10300022 for this model.

Even when an ice maker is present, it will not produce ice unless water can reach it.

If the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, leaving the ice maker on can cause unnecessary valve cycling noises (buzzing or clicking) and confusion during troubleshooting. Confirming the ice maker is installed and supplied with water helps you avoid replacing parts that are working normally.

Last updated: February 2026

For a Whirlpool WRS322FDAB01 side-by-side refrigerator, the most reliable “reset” for the freezer is a power reset: turn the refrigerator off at the breaker (or unplug it) for about 1 to 5 minutes, then restore power and allow up to 24 hours for temperatures to fully stabilize. See the control and cooling-off details in the owner's manual.

• Power reset: unplug or switch the circuit breaker off for 1 to 5 minutes, then restore power.
• Cooling system off and back on (if your control has OFF): turn the refrigerator control counterclockwise to OFF, wait 1 minute, then turn it back on.
• After any reset: keep doors closed as much as possible and wait several hours before judging results.
• If the display is acting odd: do the power reset again, then confirm the controls are not set to OFF.

A reset helps most when the control is “stuck” or temperatures drift after a power event. After power is restored:

If you reset because ice production or dispensing is acting up, the most common “fix after reset” is servicing the filter and purging air.

• Make sure the filter is fully seated and the cover door closes completely.
• Flush the water system after filter service.
• If your filter is due, replace it with the correct model-specific filter: refrigerator filter EDR1RXD1.

For step-by-step filter replacement guidance, use how to change the water filter in a Whirlpool refrigerator.

A power reset clears minor control glitches, but the freezer still needs time to pull down temperature. Waiting the full stabilization period prevents unnecessary part replacement and helps you make accurate control adjustments.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common Whirlpool refrigerator problems are cooling complaints (too warm, uneven temps) and ice maker or water dispenser issues. On the Whirlpool WRS322FDAB01, these symptoms are often tied to airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, defrost drain clogs, door sealing problems, or water supply and filtration issues; use the owner's manual troubleshooting chart to narrow it down fast.

• Refrigerator or freezer too warm: dirty condenser coils, blocked air vents, evaporator fan not moving air, or doors not sealing.
• Ice maker not making ice: ice maker switched off, low water pressure, frozen fill tube, or a clogged water filter.
• Water dispenser slow or not dispensing: clogged filter, air in the water line, or supply valve not fully open.
• Water leaking or puddles: defrost drain restriction, door left ajar causing excess frost and meltwater, or a loose water line.
• Noises that seem “new”: valve buzzing, fan whirring, defrost sizzling, or water gurgling can be normal operating sounds.

1. Confirm the controls are on and allow 24 hours after a new install or major temperature change for temps to stabilize.
2. Make sure food packages are not blocking return vents; airflow problems mimic “not cooling.”
3. Clean condenser coils (a top cause of warm temps and long run times).
4. If water or ice is weak, replace the filter and purge the dispenser.
5. Listen for the evaporator fan; if airflow is weak, cooling and ice production both suffer.

Cooling and ice maker complaints usually share the same root causes: restricted airflow, heat not being rejected at the condenser, or inconsistent water flow through the filter and supply line. Fixing those basics first prevents unnecessary control board or compressor replacements.

Last updated: February 2026