Kenmore 153312340 economizer 5 electric water heater Parts

Most electric tank water heaters last 10 to 15 years. For your Kenmore 153312340 Economizer 5 electric water heater, lifespan depends mainly on water quality, installation, and maintenance; replacing wear items like the anode rod 100108260 can help the tank reach the upper end of that range.

Typical lifespan (what to expect)

Electric water heaters usually fall into these ranges:

Type	Typical lifespan	What usually ends it
Electric tank water heater	10 to 15 years	Tank corrosion and leaks
Electric tankless water heater	20+ years	Scale buildup, component wear

Signs your water heater is near end of life

If you see these symptoms, plan for repair or replacement soon:

• Water pooling around the base (tank leak)
• Rusty or metallic-smelling hot water
• Rumbling or popping sounds (sediment buildup)
• Hot water runs out faster than it used to
• Temperature swings even after adjusting settings

Maintenance that extends life

These steps reduce corrosion and overheating stress on the tank and elements:

• Flush a few gallons from the drain valve periodically to reduce sediment
• Check and replace the sacrificial anode when it is heavily worn (common life-extender)
• Keep thermostat settings reasonable (many homes run well around 120°F)
• Inspect for seepage at element gaskets and fittings
• Test the temperature and pressure relief valve for proper operation

Why it matters

Once a tank starts leaking, it is a tank failure, not a “part failure”. Preventive maintenance (especially anode rod replacement) is what most often separates a 10-year heater from a 15-year heater.

Last updated: February 2026

A typical 40-gallon electric water heater usually scraps for about $7 to $30, depending on local scrap prices, whether the tank is steel or has higher-value metals, and if you bring it in drained and separated. For Kenmore model 153312340, the scrap value is based on materials, not the model.

What changes the scrap price most

• Local yard pricing (prices vary by region and by day)
• Material mix (mostly steel, plus copper/brass in fittings and wiring)
• Preparation (drained tank, removed insulation or plastic when required)
• Condition (some yards pay less for tanks with heavy scale or contamination)
• Weight (40-gallon tanks are heavier than smaller units, so they often pay more)

Quick prep checklist before you haul it in

• Turn off power at the breaker and confirm it is off.
• Shut off the cold-water supply and drain the tank fully.
• Disconnect plumbing and electrical safely.
• Keep small parts you may want to reuse or sell separately (valves, thermostats, elements).

Scrap vs. part-out value (what usually pays more)

If the heater failed due to a common service part, selling or reusing parts can be worth more than scrapping the whole tank.

Option	Typical payout	Best when
Scrap the whole heater	$7 to $30	Tank is leaking or badly corroded
Replace a failed part	Often higher value than scrap	No tank leak; only “no hot water” symptoms

Why it matters

If your Kenmore 153312340 tank is not leaking, a “no hot water” problem is often caused by a failed thermostat, heating element, or a worn anode rod. Fixing one of those can restore hot water and avoid the low return of scrap.

Parts that commonly fail on this model

• Thermostat 100108683 (upper thermostat)
• Element 100108327 (heating element)
• Anode rod 100108260 (corrosion protection)

Last updated: February 2026

A 5500-watt electric water heater heats water faster than a 4500-watt unit, so it recovers quicker after showers and heavy use. The tradeoff is higher electrical draw, which can require a correctly sized breaker, wire gauge, and compatible heating element for your Kenmore model 153312340.

What changes when you go from 4500W to 5500W

• Recovery time: 5500W typically restores hot water faster after the tank is depleted.
• Electrical load: 5500W draws more amps at 240V than 4500W.
• Circuit requirements: the higher draw often means a larger breaker and heavier wire (your home’s existing circuit must match).
• Element compatibility: the heater must use an element rated for the wattage and voltage.
• Operating cost: cost per gallon heated is similar; the main difference is how quickly the heat is delivered.

Quick comparison (typical at 240V)

Wattage	Approx. amps	What you notice most
4500W	~18.8A	Slower recovery, common residential setup
5500W	~22.9A	Faster recovery, higher circuit demand

What to check before upgrading wattage

• Confirm the breaker size and wire gauge feeding the water heater match the higher load.
• Verify the heater is designed for the element wattage you want to use (some tanks are labeled for specific element ratings).
• If you are replacing parts on this model, use the correct element and sealing parts to prevent leaks.
• If you are troubleshooting “not enough hot water,” test the thermostats and elements before changing wattage.

Parts that commonly relate to “not enough hot water” on model 153312340

• Thermostat 100108683 (upper thermostat)
• Element 100108327 (heating element)
• Water heater heating element gasket 100108379 (seal for the element)

Why it matters

Wattage affects how quickly your tank can recover, but electrical capacity and correct parts selection keep the repair safe and reliable. Many “slow hot water” complaints come from a weak element, a thermostat issue, or sediment, not just wattage.

Last updated: February 2026

For a Kenmore 153312340 economizer 5 electric water heater, the breaker size is based on the heater’s nameplate wattage and voltage. Most full-size electric tank water heaters use a 30-amp double-pole breaker on a dedicated 240V circuit, while some smaller or lower-wattage units can use 20 amps.

How to choose the correct breaker size

Use the water heater’s electrical rating label (typically lists volts and watts) and apply the standard sizing rule for fixed appliances.

• Confirm the heater voltage (commonly 240V) and total wattage.
• Calculate amps: amps = watts ÷ volts.
• Size the circuit for continuous load: 125% of calculated amps.
• Match the breaker to the wire gauge (breaker protects the wire).
• Use a dedicated circuit (no other loads on the water heater circuit).

Quick sizing examples (typical)

Common element wattage	Approx. running amps at 240V	Typical breaker	Typical copper wire
3000W	12.5A	20A (double-pole)	#12 AWG
3800W	15.8A	25A (double-pole)	#10 AWG (often)
4500W	18.8A	25A or 30A (double-pole)	#10 AWG
5500W	22.9A	30A (double-pole)	#10 AWG

Why it matters

An undersized breaker can trip during normal heating cycles, and an oversized breaker can fail to protect the wiring. Correct sizing helps prevent nuisance trips, overheating at connections, and premature failure of electrical components like thermostats and heating elements.

If you’re troubleshooting trips or no-heat symptoms

Breaker sizing is only one piece of the puzzle. If the breaker is correct but you still have problems, these parts commonly affect heating and cycling:

• Upper thermostat: thermostat 100108683
• Thermostat bracket (mounting and contact): water heater thermostat bracket 100108380
• Heating element: element 100108327
• Heating element seal (leaks onto wiring can cause faults): water heater heating element gasket 100108379

Last updated: February 2026

The most common water heater problem is not getting enough hot water (or running out quickly), usually caused by sediment buildup on the heating element or a failed thermostat or heating element. On Kenmore model 153312340 (electric), those issues show up as slow recovery, lukewarm water, or tripped high-limit.

Most common problems we see (and what they look like)

• Sediment buildup: rumbling or popping sounds, reduced hot water, higher electric use
• Failed heating element: no hot water or limited hot water (often one element fails first)
• Bad thermostat: water too cool, too hot, or temperature swings
• Worn anode rod: rusty smell or discolored water, faster tank corrosion
• Leaking valve or fittings: moisture at connections, dripping from discharge pipe

Quick checks you can do safely

• Confirm the breaker is on and not tripped.
• Check for water leaks around the tank, drain valve, and piping.
• Listen for rumbling or popping during a heat cycle (sediment).
• If you suspect an electrical failure, test components with a meter using our guide: how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Common symptom-to-part match for model 153312340

Symptom	Most likely cause	Parts on this page that often fix it
No hot water	Upper thermostat or element issue	Thermostat 100108683, element 100108327
Runs out of hot water fast	Lower element or thermostat issue, sediment	Thermostat 100108424, element 100108330
Water too hot or inconsistent	Thermostat out of calibration	Thermostat 100108683 or thermostat 100108424
Dripping from relief line	T&P valve opening or failing	Water heater temperature and pressure relief valve 100108279

Why it matters

Catching the common causes early (sediment, thermostat, element wear) restores hot water faster and helps protect the tank from overheating, nuisance tripping, and premature corrosion.

Last updated: February 2026