Are GE side by side refrigerators good?
GE side-by-side refrigerators like model GSS20GEWJBB are a solid choice for everyday reliability and convenience: they typically offer easy food organization, strong lighting, and built-in ice and water features. Overall performance depends most on proper setup, airflow, and routine cleaning described in the GSS20GEWJBB owner's manual.
What “good” usually means for a side-by-side refrigerator
A “good” GE side-by-side refrigerator generally delivers consistent temperatures, usable storage, and dependable dispenser performance.
Common strengths:
- Spacious, easy-to-sort fresh food and freezer sections
- Adjustable shelves and bins for flexible storage
- Bright interior lighting for visibility
- Convenient ice maker and water dispenser
- Widely available replacement parts for long-term upkeep
What to watch for (and how to reduce problems)
Some side-by-side owners report normal operating noise or slower ice production at times. Many issues improve with basic maintenance and correct settings.
Best practices we recommend:
- Keep vents clear inside both compartments so air can circulate
- Set realistic temperatures (most homes do best around 37°F fresh food and 0°F freezer)
- Clean condenser area periodically to help cooling efficiency
- Replace the water filter on schedule (the manual notes about every 6 months, or sooner if flow drops)
- Confirm doors seal tightly; a worn gasket can cause temperature swings and moisture
Quick comparison: side-by-side vs other common styles
| Style | Best for | Tradeoffs |
|---|---|---|
| Side-by-side | Easy access to both sections; narrow door swing | Narrower shelf width for pizza platters, trays |
| Top freezer | Value and simplicity | Less convenient fresh-food access |
| French door | Wide shelves and fresh-food access | Often higher cost; more complex features |
Parts that commonly affect “how good it runs”
If performance drops (warm temps, noise changes, weak ice output), these parts are often involved:
- Refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025 (temperature feedback and control)
- Refrigerator condenser fan WR60X10220 (moves air across condenser for efficient cooling)
- Rca refrigerator evaporator fan motor WR60X10185 (circulates cold air through compartments)
Why it matters
A side-by-side can feel “great” or “frustrating” based on temperature stability and airflow. Following the care, cleaning, and operating guidance in the manual helps the refrigerator run quieter, cool more evenly, and keep ice and water features working smoothly.
Last updated: January 2026
Is there a reset button for a GE refrigerator?
GE refrigerators like model GSS20GEWJBB typically do not have a single dedicated “reset button.” For most glitches, we reset the electronics by power cycling the refrigerator; for specific functions (like the dispenser lock or filter reminder), we use the control-panel pads described in the GSS20GEWJBB owner's manual.
Quick reset options that work most often
- Power reset (main control board reset): Unplug the refrigerator (or switch off the breaker), wait about 2 to 5 minutes, then restore power.
- Cooling off and back on (control reset): Use the temperature controls to set cooling to 0/OFF, then set back to your normal settings. (This stops cooling but does not remove electrical power.)
- Dispenser/control lock reset: Press and hold the Lock pad for 3 seconds to lock or unlock (on some models).
What each “reset” actually does
| Reset method | What it resets | When to use it |
|---|---|---|
| Power cycle | Control board logic, minor electronic glitches | Display acting odd, intermittent cooling behavior, dispenser not responding |
| Set controls to 0/OFF then back | Cooling operation settings | Temperature changes not taking effect, troubleshooting cooling behavior |
| Hold Lock 3 seconds | Dispenser and control panel lockout | Dispenser won’t dispense, buttons seem disabled |
If you are resetting because it is not cooling
These checks solve the most common “not cooling enough” complaints after a reset:
- Confirm the controls are not set to 0/OFF.
- Allow 24 hours after changing settings for temperatures to stabilize.
- Make sure doors close fully and gaskets seal.
- Avoid overpacking; air must circulate through vents.
- Listen for normal fan and compressor sounds after restart.
Why it matters
A “reset” can clear a temporary control-board hiccup, but it will not fix a failed component. If cooling problems return quickly, we usually focus next on airflow and temperature sensing, such as the refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025 and fan operation.
Last updated: January 2026
What is the most common problem with a GE refrigerator?
Cooling problems are the most common issue we see with GE refrigerators like model GSS20GEWJBB. In many cases, the root cause is restricted airflow (dirty condenser area), a defrost system problem, or a failing fan or sensor that prevents the refrigerator and freezer from holding safe temperatures.
Quick checks we recommend first
- Confirm the controls are set correctly and the doors fully close.
- Make sure vents inside the fresh food and freezer sections are not blocked by food packages.
- Clean dust from the condenser area (unplug the refrigerator first).
- Listen for the evaporator fan running; a failed fan often causes warm temperatures and uneven cooling.
- Check door sealing; a leaking gasket can cause long run times and temperature swings.
Common causes and the parts that often fix them
If basic cleaning and airflow checks do not restore normal temperatures, these are frequent culprits on side-by-side designs:
| Symptom | Most likely area | Example part for this model |
|---|---|---|
| Fridge warm, freezer OK | Airflow/damper issue | Refrigerator damper control WR13X10988 |
| Both sections warm | Condenser fan or sealed system not rejecting heat | Refrigerator condenser fan WR60X10220 |
| Temps swing, food freezes then warms | Sensor/control feedback issue | Refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025 |
| Frost buildup, weak airflow | Evaporator fan or defrost-related issue | Rca refrigerator evaporator fan motor WR60X10185 |
Why it matters
A refrigerator that cannot maintain steady temperatures can spoil food, overwork the compressor, and create frost or moisture problems. Catching airflow and fan issues early is one of the best ways to prevent bigger cooling failures.
Model-specific tip from the documentation
For water and ice performance, GE recommends using GE-branded water filters for best reliability and to meet NSF standards. For cleaning and care details (including dispenser area cleaning), follow the GSS20GEWJBB owner’s manual.
Last updated: January 2026
Why are GE refrigerators so noisy?
GE refrigerators like model GSS20GEWJBB often sound “noisier” because modern designs use high-efficiency compressors, variable-speed fans, electronic dampers, and automatic defrost; these parts create normal hums, clicks, whooshes, and water sounds during everyday operation. See the GSS20GEWJBB owner's manual for the normal-sound descriptions.
Normal sounds vs. problem sounds
Many sounds are expected, especially after plugging in, after door openings, or after an ice-making cycle.
- High-pitched hum or pulsing: compressor running faster/longer
- Whoosh when doors close: pressure equalizing
- Clicks/pops/cracks: cooling down, defrost expansion and contraction, relays switching
- Whirring: fans speeding up to stabilize temperatures
- Gurgling/sizzling/dripping: refrigerant flow and defrost water melting into the drain pan
Quick sound guide
| Sound you hear | Most common cause | When it’s normal |
|---|---|---|
| Hum or pulsating | Compressor | During cooling, longer run times after door openings |
| Clicks/chirps | Relays, compressor restart attempt | Intermittently; restart can take up to ~5 minutes |
| Whir/airflow | Evaporator or condenser fan | After plugging in, heavy use, warm food load |
| Ice clunk | Ice cubes dropping | After an ice-making cycle |
When noise points to a part issue
If the sound is new, very loud, or constant, focus on the system that matches the noise.
- Rattling/vibration at the back: condenser fan area or tubing touching the cabinet
- Grinding/squealing from freezer: evaporator fan motor or fan blade interference
- Repeated loud clicking with poor cooling: start relay/capacitor or compressor start issue
- Loud clacking during dispensing: ice chute door not sealing or dispenser mechanism binding
Parts commonly involved on this model
| Symptom | Part to check |
|---|---|
| Freezer noise, airflow noise | Rca refrigerator evaporator fan motor WR60X10185 |
| Back-of-fridge fan noise | Refrigerator condenser fan (motor/blade area) |
| Ice door not closing, warm air leak | Refrigerator dispenser ice chute door kit WR17X11653 |
What to do first (fast checks)
- Make sure the refrigerator is level and not touching the wall or cabinets.
- Confirm the water line and tubing are routed so they do not vibrate against the cabinet.
- Listen for when the noise happens: right after doors close, during defrost, or after ice drops.
- If the noise is from the freezer, check for frost buildup that can contact the fan.
Why it matters
Some “noisy” sounds are signs the refrigerator is actively protecting food temperatures (fans speeding up, longer compressor run time). A true abnormal noise usually comes with another symptom, like warm temperatures, frost buildup, or dispenser issues.
Last updated: January 2026





