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GE CYE22TP2MIS1 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

GE CYE22TP2MIS1 refrigerator
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Browse Parts for CYE22TP2MIS1 Refrigerators

  • Meat Pan Diffuser for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR32X40765

    Mea Diffuser

    Part #WR32X10913

    Replaced by #WR32X40765

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  • Refrigerator Fresh Food Evaporator for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR87X36103

    Refrigerator Evaporator

    Part #WR87X36486

    Replaced by #WR87X36103

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  • Screw St3.9-1.4 Ab Flt20 16 S for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR02X36719

    Screw St3.9-1.4 Ab Flt20 16 S W

    Part #WR02X36706

    Replaced by #WR02X36719

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  • Refrigerator Door Switch for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR23X29161

    Fresh Food Door Light Switch

    Part #WR23X29162

    Replaced by #WR23X29161

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    This part replaces WR23X29162. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Wheel Overmo for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR02X13616

    Wheel Overmo

    Part #WR02X13694

    Replaced by #WR02X13616

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    This part replaces WR02X13694. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Brushed Copp for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR12X31652

    Brushed Copper Fresh Food Door Handle

    Part #WR12X30460

    Replaced by #WR12X31652

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  • Refrigerator Door Assembly, Right (stainless) for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR78X30557

    Refrigerator Door Assembly, Right (stainless)

    Part #WR78X30558

    Replaced by #WR78X30557

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  • Board Lcd Graphic Asm for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR55X45229

    Refrigerator Lcd Touch Screen

    Part #WR55X30438

    Replaced by #WR55X45229

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  • 7mm X 5mm Lokring for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR97X25268

    7mm X 5mm Lokring

    Part #WR97X25268

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • 8mm X 7mm Lokring for GE CYE22TP2MIS1 - Part WR97X31246

    8mm X 7mm Lokring

    Part #WR97X31246

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

GE Refrigerator CYE22TP2MIS1 FAQs

On the GE CYE22TP2MIS1 bottom-mount refrigerator, the bottom grille (base grille or toe grille) typically comes off by removing any retaining screws (if present) and then pulling the grille straight out to release the clips. This gives you access for cleaning and basic service checks.

Steps to remove the bottom grille
  • Unplug the refrigerator or switch off power at the breaker (recommended for safety).
  • Look along the top edge or ends of the grille for Phillips-head screws.
  • If screws are present, remove them and set them aside.
  • Grip the grille near both ends and pull straight toward you to pop it off the retaining clips.
  • If it feels stuck, pull evenly from both sides to avoid cracking the plastic tabs.
  • Reinstall by lining it up and pushing it back in until it snaps; reinstall screws if your grille uses them.
Quick troubleshooting if it will not come off
  • No visible screws: It is likely clip-in only; pull straight out, not up.
  • Grille flexes but will not release: Check for hidden screws at the ends or behind a small cap.
  • Tabs keep popping back in: Pull from both corners at the same time.
  • You need more clearance: Open both fresh food doors fully so you can grip the grille evenly.
What you can do while the grille is off
Task What to check Why it helps
Clean condenser area Dust and pet hair buildup Improves airflow and cooling efficiency
Check for water Moisture or a small puddle Helps catch drain or dispenser leaks early
Listen for noises Fan or vibration sounds Helps pinpoint airflow or mounting issues
Why it matters

A properly seated bottom grille protects components, supports correct airflow, and makes routine cleaning easier. If the grille is loose or broken, it can rattle and reduce ventilation at the front of the refrigerator.

Related help: how to get rid of refrigerator puddles

Last updated: January 2026

Bottom-mount refrigerators are better for many households because the fresh-food section sits at eye and waist level, so everyday items are easier to see and reach. For a GE bottom-mount model like CYE22TP2MIS1, this layout typically improves convenience without sacrificing freezer capacity.

What “better” usually means in real use

Bottom-mount designs tend to fit how most people cook and snack: you open the refrigerator more often than the freezer.

Common advantages

  • Easier access to fresh foods (less bending for milk, produce, leftovers)
  • Better organization for refrigerator shelves and drawers
  • Freezer drawer can hold bulky items (pizza boxes, bags of frozen food)
  • Often feels more ergonomic for daily use

Common tradeoffs

  • Freezer items can be harder to see (stacked in a deep drawer)
  • Ice bin access may require opening the freezer drawer on some setups
  • If the freezer is heavily used, you may bend more often than with a top-freezer
Quick comparison: bottom-mount vs top-freezer
Feature Bottom-mount Top-freezer
Fresh-food access Best Good
Freezer visibility Fair Best
Ergonomics for daily use Best Good
Typical price Higher Lower
When a bottom-mount is the best choice

A bottom-mount is the right pick when:

  • You cook often and use fresh ingredients daily
  • You want better visibility of refrigerated foods (less waste)
  • You prefer wide refrigerator shelves for platters and meal prep
Why it matters

Layout affects how often food gets forgotten, how comfortable the refrigerator is to use, and how quickly you can find items. If you open the refrigerator section far more than the freezer, a bottom-mount design usually feels like an upgrade.

Helpful related DIY content

If your decision is tied to day-to-day usability (like alarms and door sealing), our guide on how to reset the door alarm on a GE refrigerator helps you keep the doors closed properly and temperatures stable.

Last updated: January 2026

The most common problem we see with GE refrigerators (including model CYE22TP2MIS1) is poor cooling: the fresh food section gets warm, the freezer temperature drifts, or temperatures swing. The most frequent causes are airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, a failing fan system, or a control and sensor issue.

Most common causes of cooling problems
  • Dirty condenser coils causing weak heat removal and longer run times
  • Airflow blocked by overpacked shelves, iced vents, or a stuck damper/air tower
  • Evaporator fan issues (noisy, intermittent, or not running) reducing cold air circulation
  • Defrost system trouble leading to frost buildup and restricted airflow
  • Temperature sensing or control problems, such as a bad sensor or main control board
Quick checks we recommend first
  1. Confirm settings: refrigerator about 37°F, freezer about 0°F.
  2. Clean condenser coils and make sure the unit has proper ventilation.
  3. Check door closing and sealing; warm air leaks create frost and temperature swings.
  4. Listen for fans: you should typically hear airflow when the compressor is running.
  5. Look for heavy frost on the back wall inside the freezer (a strong defrost clue).
Parts that commonly relate to “not cooling” symptoms

If basic cleaning and airflow checks do not help, these model-compatible parts are often involved:

Symptom Common suspect Example part for CYE22TP2MIS1
Temps swing, false warm alarms Temperature sensing Refrigerator temperature sensor WR55X10025
Random cooling issues, dead display, odd behavior Electronic control Main board asm reflashed WR55X46805
Compressor hums but struggles to start Start device/capacitor Combo device WR07X10131
Why it matters

Cooling problems can spoil food quickly and also force the compressor to run harder than normal. Catching airflow, coil, or sensor issues early often prevents bigger failures and keeps temperatures stable.

Related DIY help

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

If the temperature in your refrigerator doesn't match the temperature you set, the problem could be the temperature cont…

Repair time and Difficulty

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

How to replace a refrigerator water valve

Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your refrigerators

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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Troubleshooting a refrigerator not cooling video

Troubleshooting a refrigerator not cooling video

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