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Admiral LER3330AAZ electric freestanding range Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Admiral LER3330AAZ electric freestanding range, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Admiral LER3330AAZ electric freestanding range
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Browse Parts for LER3330AAZ Ranges

  • Range Storage Drawer Glide Bumper for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part W11189172

    Control panel/top assembly diagram

    Main Glide

    Part #74004558

    Replaced by #W11189172

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  • Nut for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WPW10131078

    Lock Nut

    Part #7103P139-60

    Replaced by #WPW10131078

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  • Trim for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP3608F117-70

    Door/drawer (series 15) diagram

    Door Trim

    Part #74009693

    Replaced by #WP3608F117-70

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    This part replaces 74009693. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Refrigerator for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part W11233072

    Screw

    Part #74001530

    Replaced by #W11233072

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    This part replaces 74001530. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Range Anti-tip Bracket Screw for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP7101P485-60

    Oven/base diagram

    Screw

    Part #7101P352-60

    Replaced by #WP7101P485-60

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  • Nut for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP488130

    Nut

    Part #7103P082-60

    Replaced by #WP488130

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  • Range Screw for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP7101P434-60

    Screw

    Part #71001394

    Replaced by #WP7101P434-60

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  • Range Surface Element Control Switch for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP7403P238-60

    Control panel/top assembly diagram

    Range Surface Element Control Switch

    Part #7403P238-60

    Replaced by #WP7403P238-60

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    This part replaces 7403P238-60. Substitute parts can look different from the original.
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  • Screw for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP7101P072-60

    Panel Screw

    Part #74004310

    Replaced by #WP7101P072-60

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  • Screw for Admiral LER3330AAZ - Part WP7101P498-60

    Control panel/top assembly diagram

    Screw

    Part #74003357

    Replaced by #WP7101P498-60

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Admiral Electric Freestanding Range LER3330AAZ FAQs

Yes, it’s usually worth fixing your Admiral LER3330AAZ electric freestanding range when the repair is a common, moderate-cost part (like a heating element or sensor) and the range is otherwise in good condition; if the repair cost approaches about half the price of a comparable replacement, replacing often makes more sense.

Quick decision checklist (what we use)

  • Repair when the problem is isolated (no widespread electrical damage) and the fix is a single part.
  • Repair when the oven heats unevenly, won’t reach temp, or takes too long to preheat (often a bake element or sensor).
  • Repair when the cooktop issue is limited to one burner or one control.
  • Replace when multiple major systems are failing (oven heat plus cooktop plus controls).
  • Replace when the oven cavity, wiring harness, or insulation is heat-damaged.
  • Replace when the repair requires several high-cost parts at once.

Common fixes on model LER3330AAZ (and what they typically solve)

Symptom Likely part area Example part on this model
Oven won’t bake or bakes weakly Bake heating circuit Bake element WP74010750
Oven temperature is inaccurate Temperature sensing Oven sensor 12001656
Broil doesn’t work Broil heating circuit Oven broiler element WPW10310249
One surface burner won’t regulate heat Infinite switch/control Range surface element control switch

Why it matters

A targeted repair can restore safe, consistent baking temperatures and prevent wasted energy from long preheats. On electric ranges like the Admiral LER3330AAZ, heating and sensing parts are common wear items and are often the most cost-effective repairs.

Cost and lifespan rule of thumb

Use the “50% rule” to decide quickly:

  • If the repair total (parts + labor) is under ~50% of the cost of a comparable new range, repair is the better value.
  • If the range is past about half of its typical lifespan, replacement becomes more attractive.

Typical lifespan for an electric range: 13 to 15 years.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Admiral LER3330AAZ electric freestanding range, a “333” display is not a standard, model-specific error code; it most often points to a control/display issue or a temperature-sensing problem that is making the oven control read incorrectly. We treat it as a troubleshooting symptom and verify heat and sensor operation.

What to check first (fast, safe checks)

  • Power reset: Turn the range breaker off for 1 minute, then back on.
  • Confirm where you see it: Is “333” on the clock/control display, or are you reading 333°F as an oven temperature?
  • Try Bake and Broil: Start Bake, then Broil; note whether the elements heat normally.
  • Look for loose connections: If the display is acting erratically, a loose wire at the control or sensor can cause odd readings.
  • Check for overheating symptoms: Burning smell, runaway heat, or the oven not shutting off points to a sensing/control problem.

Likely causes on an electric range

What you’re seeing Most common cause What we typically do next
“333” shows as a code or stuck display Electronic control/display glitch or wiring issue Reset power; inspect wiring; test components
Oven temperature seems wrong and “333°F” appears quickly Oven temperature sensor out of range Test/replace the sensor
Oven heats unevenly or won’t reach set temp Failed bake element Inspect/replace the bake element

Parts that commonly solve “odd temperature” or heating problems

Why it matters

A bad sensor, failed element, or wiring problem can make the oven cook unpredictably, overheat, or shut down mid-cycle. Catching the cause early helps protect the control and keeps baking temperatures accurate.

Last updated: February 2026

An electric oven in your Admiral LER3330AAZ range is built around heating components (bake and broil elements), temperature sensing/control parts, and door and lighting parts that help it heat evenly and safely. The exact mix varies by model, but these are the core parts you will see most often.

Main electric oven parts (what they do)

  • Bake element: bottom heater that does most baking and roasting.
  • Broil element: top heater for broiling and fast top browning.
  • Oven temperature sensor: tells the control how hot the oven is so it can regulate heat.
  • Oven light and lens: illuminates the cavity so you can check food without opening the door.
  • Door gasket: seals heat in around the door opening.
  • Door glass and hinges: insulate, support, and allow smooth door operation.

These are common oven parts we list for this model:

Oven part What you’ll notice when it fails Example part on this model
Bake element Slow baking, no heat on Bake, uneven browning Bake element WP74010750
Broil element No broil heat, weak broil, top not browning Oven broiler element WPW10310249
Oven sensor Oven runs too hot/cold, temperature swings Oven sensor 12001656
Oven bulb Light does not turn on Oven bulb 8009
Door gasket Heat leaking, longer preheat, hot handle/trim Door gasket WPW10162384

Why it matters

Knowing the major oven parts helps you troubleshoot faster. For example, “no heat on Bake” points to the bake element or wiring, while “temperature is off” often points to the sensor or control calibration.

Quick safety and troubleshooting tips

  • Turn off power at the breaker before inspecting wiring or elements.
  • If an element does not glow red when heating, check for visible blisters or breaks.
  • If temperatures are consistently off, test the sensor resistance with a meter.
  • If the door does not close tightly, inspect the gasket and hinges for gaps or looseness.
  • Use a multimeter correctly before replacing electrical parts; see how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your ranges

Choose a symptom to see related range repairs.

Main causes: power supply failure, blown thermal fuse, bad relay control board, damaged terminal block, wiring failure…

Main causes: broken broiler element, weak or broken broil burner igniter, control system failure, faulty temperature sen…

Main causes: power supply problem, control thermostat or electronic control board failure, broken element, bad burner ig…

Main causes: broken oven door lock assembly, wiring failure, electronic control board problem…

Main causes: faulty temperature sensor, electronic control board problem, control thermostat failure, weak burner ignite…

Main causes: bad bake element, broken burner igniter, control system failure, blown thermal fuse, faulty temperature sen…

Main causes: food splatters, spilling food on the oven door, allowing liquid to drip through oven door vent when cleanin…

Most common repair guides to help fix your ranges

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your range.

How to replace a range oven door switch

How to replace a range oven door switch

The oven door switch detects whether the oven door is closed and helps control the oven light. Replace the switch if it …

Repair time and Difficulty

 30 minutes or less
How to replace a range oven door lock assembly

How to replace a range oven door lock assembly

Oven door not locking? You can replace the lock assembly in less than 30 minutes. Here's how.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your ranges

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your range.

4 things you're doing wrong with your oven

4 things you're doing wrong with your oven

You might be surprised by these 4 tips for using your oven better.…

How to correct an oven's temperature setting

How to correct an oven's temperature setting

If your oven consistently undercooks or overcooks, it might need recalibration. You can reset it yourself.…

Quiz: Are you abusing your appliances?

Quiz: Are you abusing your appliances?

Take our quiz to see how well you treat your appliances. Then, find out what you can do to help them last longer.…

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