Kenmore 59679872990 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Your Kenmore refrigerator’s model number is printed on the serial plate inside the fresh food (refrigerator) compartment. For Kenmore bottom-mount models like 59679872990, the plate is typically on the top left wall of the refrigerator compartment; match that number exactly when looking up parts and instructions in the 59679872990 owner's manual.

Where to look for the model number

Check these common locations first (in order):

• Top left wall inside the refrigerator compartment (most common for this Kenmore style)
• Side wall inside the fresh food section
• Ceiling area inside the fresh food section
• Behind or near the crisper drawers
• On the cabinet frame near the door opening (visible when the door is open)

What the model number looks like (and why it matters)

Kenmore model numbers are usually a mix of numbers and sometimes a prefix. For this refrigerator, you’ll typically see a 596. prefix on the serial plate, followed by additional digits.

Quick guide

What you see	What it means	What to do next
A number starting with 596.	Kenmore model family identifier	Use the full model number to match diagrams and parts
Model number + serial number	Identifies your exact unit	Record both for ordering and troubleshooting

Tips to avoid ordering the wrong part

Small differences in the model number can change the correct water filter, door gasket, ice maker parts, or control components.

• Copy the model number character-for-character from the serial plate
• Record the serial number too (helps confirm production variation)
• Use the model number when searching for common fixes like cooling issues, ice maker problems, or door seal leaks

Why it matters

The model number ties your refrigerator to the correct parts list, wiring layout, and feature set (for example, whether your unit has an automatic ice maker). Using the exact model number prevents mismatched parts and repeat repairs.

Last updated: February 2026

On your Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator model 59679872990, a “bad compressor” usually shows up as no cooling even though the unit has power, or repeated clicking/cycling as the compressor tries to start. First rule out normal operating sounds and simple power or defrost-cycle conditions listed in the owner's manual.

Quick checks before blaming the compressor

• Confirm the refrigerator is plugged into a working outlet; reset the breaker or replace a blown fuse if needed.
• Make sure the temperature control is turned on (not set to Off).
• If the light works but the fans and compressor are not running, wait about 40 minutes; the refrigerator may be in a defrost cycle.
• Clean the condenser coils; dirty coils can cause warm temperatures and long run times.
• Check door gaskets for a tight seal; air leaks can mimic sealed-system problems.

Signs that point to a compressor start or sealed-system problem

These symptoms are strong indicators after the quick checks above are done:

• You hear a click every few minutes and the compressor never stays running.
• The refrigerator and freezer stay warm while the unit seems to be trying to run.
• The compressor is very hot to the touch and shuts off quickly (overload trips).
• You hear unusual loud buzzing or humming followed by a click.

Normal sounds vs. problem sounds

Use this as a fast comparison so normal compressor noises do not get mistaken for failure.

What you notice	Often normal	More likely a problem
Soft click when starting/stopping	Yes	No
High-pitched hum or pulsating sound that cycles	Yes	No
Repeated click with no sustained running	No	Yes
Warm temperatures in both sections for hours	No	Yes

Why it matters

The compressor is part of the sealed refrigeration system (compressor, evaporator, heat exchanger, and tubing). If the compressor cannot start or cannot pump refrigerant, the refrigerator will not maintain safe food temperatures, and troubleshooting needs to shift from airflow and settings to sealed-system diagnosis.

What we recommend next

• If food is warming, move perishables to another refrigerator or use dry ice to protect food.
• Recheck condenser coil cleanliness and gasket sealing.
• If the compressor is clicking off repeatedly or the refrigerator will not restart after the defrost wait time, have a technician test the start components and compressor electrical readings.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common issues we see with Kenmore refrigerators (including model 59679872990) are cooling problems, ice maker and water supply issues, water leaks or moisture buildup, and unusual noises. Many of these start with airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, or doors not sealing tightly; our owner's manual walks through the built-in checks.

Common problems and what usually causes them

• Not cooling or warm temperatures: controls set incorrectly, dirty condenser coils, blocked vents, or the unit being in a normal defrost cycle
• Runs too often: frequent door openings, warm food loads, dirty condenser coils, or poor door gasket seal
• Water droplets inside or outside: high humidity, frequent door openings, containers not wiped dry, or door seals not sealing
• Ice maker not making ice or slow ice (some models): ice maker arm off position, water supply/valve issues, or inlet tube icing
• Odors: uncovered food, spills, or old ice absorbing odors
• Noises that seem “new”: fan airflow, refrigerant movement, defrost heater sounds, timer clicks, or ice dropping into the bucket

Quick checks we recommend first (fast, no parts)

1. Confirm controls are set correctly and give temperatures several hours to stabilize after changes.
2. Check power and operation: verify it is plugged in, and check the breaker or fuse.
3. Clean the condenser coils (a top cause of warm temps and long run times).
4. Inspect door gaskets: they should seal tightly all the way around.
5. If it just stopped cooling, wait 40 minutes; it may be in a normal defrost cycle.

What “normal” sounds can mean

Sound	What it often is	When to act
Clicking	Control starting or stopping the compressor	Act if cooling stops or clicking is constant
Whirring/rushing	Freezer or condenser fan moving air	Act if it gets loud or airflow seems weak
Gurgling/popping	Refrigerant moving through the sealed system	Normal during operation
Sizzling/hissing	Defrost heater during defrost	Normal during defrost

Why it matters

Catching airflow and sealing problems early helps your Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator hold safe food temperatures, reduces frost and moisture, and prevents the compressor from running excessively.

Last updated: February 2026

On Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator model 59679872990, water leaking from the bottom is typically caused by a clogged defrost drain that overflows inside the cabinet, or a slow seep at the ice maker water supply line or inlet valve connection that runs down to the floor.

Quick checks (find the source fast)

• Look for water or a thin sheet of ice under the crisper drawers.
• Check the drain pan underneath for cracks, overflow, or being out of position.
• Inspect the ice maker water line, fittings, and shutoff connection for slow drips.
• Confirm the refrigerator is slightly higher in front than in back (proper leveling helps water flow to the drain pan).
• If the unit was recently moved, look for a kinked line or a pinched tube behind the cabinet.

Most common causes and what to do

Clogged or frozen defrost drain

Defrost water should flow through a drain hole and tube to the drain pan. When it plugs with ice or debris, water backs up and leaks out.

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Remove items and drawers as needed to access the drain area.
• Thaw visible ice with warm air and towels.
• Flush the drain opening with hot water (turkey baster works well) until it drains freely.

Water supply connection seep (ice maker models)

The manual directs checking for leaks after hookup and again after 24 hours; a tiny drip can track down the cabinet.

• Check the valve inlet connection and tubing for moisture.
• Tighten fittings snugly (do not overtighten).
• Make sure tubing is secured and not rubbing or kinked.

Decision table

What you see	Most likely cause	Best first step
Water or ice under crispers	Defrost drain clogged/frozen	Thaw and flush the drain
Water near back/bottom	Water line or valve seep	Inspect tubing and fittings
Water after defrost cycles	Drain pan overflow/misaligned	Re-seat and clean the pan

Why it matters

Stopping the leak prevents floor damage and reduces ice buildup and odors caused by standing water.

For model-specific leveling guidance and water supply connection steps, use the 59679872990 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026