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Craftsman 1012290 metal cutting band saw

Craftsman 1012290 metal cutting band saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 1012290 metal cutting band saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 1012290 Power Tools

  • Band Saw Idler Wheel for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 4352-24

    Unit diagram

    Band Saw Idler Wheel

    Part #4352-24

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Swivel Jaw for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 431-014

    Unit diagram

    Swivel Jaw

    Part #431-014

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Left Saw Guide Bracket for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 041-361

    Unit diagram

    Left Saw Guide Bracket

    Part #041-361

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Oiler for Craftsman 1012290 - Part DB4-35

    Unit diagram

    Oiler

    Part #DB4-35

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Clamp for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 126-100

    Unit diagram

    Clamp

    Part #126-100

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Guide Bkt Rh for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 041-360

    Unit diagram

    Guide Bkt Rh

    Part #041-360

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Vise Jaw for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 431-013

    Unit diagram

    Vise Jaw

    Part #431-013

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Drive Pulley for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 560-166

    Unit diagram

    Drive Pulley

    Part #560-166

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Cylnder Knob for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 441-098

    Unit diagram

    Cylnder Knob

    Part #441-098

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Feed Cylinder Seal Support for Craftsman 1012290 - Part 705-037

    Unit diagram

    Feed Cylinder Seal Support

    Part #705-037

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman Metal Cutting Band Saw 1012290 FAQs

The 3-tooth rule means your Craftsman 1012290 metal cutting band saw blade should have at least three teeth in contact with the workpiece at all times. This keeps the cut stable, reduces tooth snagging or stripping, and helps the blade track smoothly through the material.

How to apply the rule (pick the right TPI)

Use the material thickness to choose a blade tooth count (TPI, teeth per inch) that keeps 3 or more teeth engaged.

  • Measure the thickness where the blade enters the cut (thin wall tubing counts as thin)
  • Choose a TPI that gives 3 to 6 teeth engaged as a practical target
  • For thin metal, go higher TPI to avoid tooth catch and chatter
  • For thicker stock, go lower TPI for better chip clearing and faster cutting
  • If the cut squeals or turns blue-hot, reduce feed pressure and check TPI and blade condition

Quick guide: thickness vs. typical TPI (metal cutting)

These are common starting points for metal cutting band saws like the Craftsman 1012290.

Material thickness (approx.) Typical blade choice What you’ll notice
Under 1/8 in. (sheet, thin wall) 18 to 24 TPI Smoother cut, less tooth snagging
1/8 to 1/4 in. 14 to 18 TPI Good balance of speed and finish
1/4 to 1/2 in. 10 to 14 TPI Faster cutting, better chip clearing
Over 1/2 in. 6 to 10 TPI Aggressive cut; needs steady feed

Why it matters on a metal cutting band saw

If fewer than three teeth hit the metal, each tooth takes too big a bite. That causes grabbing, vibration, broken teeth, crooked cuts, and premature blade wear. Keeping multiple teeth engaged spreads the load and stabilizes the cut.

If your cut quality is still poor

Check these common causes (even with the right TPI):

  • Blade installed backwards (teeth must point into the cut direction)
  • Blade tension too low (wandering, chatter)
  • Worn blade guides or misadjusted guide bearings
  • Feed pressure too high for the blade pitch
  • Dull blade (shiny rounded teeth, slow cutting)

For safe electrical checks on switches, cords, or motors, use our how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

You can buy replacement parts for your Craftsman metal cutting band saw model 1012290 through the parts list for that model on Sears PartsDirect, which helps you match parts by model number and diagram so you get the right fit.

Best way to buy the right part for model 1012290

  • Confirm the model number on the saw’s ID plate is 1012290 (not a similar Craftsman number).
  • Use the model’s parts diagrams to identify the exact part name and location.
  • Match what you see on the saw (mounting holes, shaft size, wiring connectors) to the diagram callouts.
  • If you are replacing an electrical item (switch, cord, capacitor), compare ratings and terminal style before ordering.
  • Order using the model lookup on Sears PartsDirect so the results stay tied to 1012290.

Common Craftsman band saw parts people replace

Even without a model-specific parts list shown here, these are the most commonly purchased wear and service items for a metal cutting band saw:

Part type What it affects Typical symptom when failing
Blade Cutting performance Slow cutting, wandering cuts, tooth loss
Drive belt (if equipped) Blade speed and torque Slipping, squealing, inconsistent speed
Blade guides/bearings Cut accuracy Blade drift, vibration, noisy tracking
Switch/cord Power delivery Won’t start, intermittent power

Why it matters

Craftsman tools often have multiple similar-looking versions; buying parts by the exact model number (1012290) reduces returns and prevents installing a part that does not align with the saw’s frame, wheels, or electrical setup.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Craftsman 1012290 metal cutting band saw, a blade that keeps falling off is almost always caused by incorrect blade tracking or tension, misaligned wheels, or worn wheel tires or guide bearings. Correcting tracking and verifying the guides and wheels are square typically stops the blade from walking off.

Most common causes (and what to check first)

  • Blade tension too low: the blade can wander and climb off the wheel.
  • Tracking not set: the blade should ride near the center of the wheel tire, not at the edge.
  • Guide bearings or side guides set wrong: guides that pinch or sit too far back let the blade twist.
  • Wheel alignment (coplanar) issue: if the wheels are not in line, the blade will drift off.
  • Hardened, cracked, or crowned wheel tires: the blade cannot stay centered.
  • Worn wheel bearings: wheel wobble makes the blade derail.

Step-by-step: quick tracking and guide setup

  1. Unplug the saw and open the wheel covers.
  2. Inspect the blade for kinks, missing teeth, or a welded joint bump; replace the blade if damaged.
  3. Set blade tension to the saw’s recommended range (a properly tensioned blade “rings” when plucked and deflects only slightly with moderate finger pressure).
  4. Adjust tracking (tracking knob) while slowly turning the upper wheel by hand until the blade runs centered.
  5. Set the guides:
    • Side guides should sit just behind the gullets (not touching teeth).
    • Side guides should be close to the blade but not constantly rubbing.
    • Thrust bearing should sit just behind the blade and only spin when you feed material.

How to tell what’s failing

Symptom Most likely cause What to do
Blade walks forward off wheel Tracking set wrong, tire crown worn Re-track; inspect/replace tires
Blade pops off during cutting Low tension, guides too loose Increase tension; reset guides
Blade won’t stay centered even by hand Wheel misalignment, wheel bearing play Check wheel alignment; check bearings
Squeal or heat at guides Guides too tight or mispositioned Back off and re-position guides

Why it matters

A blade that derails can damage the wheel tires, bend the blade, and create a kickback hazard. Getting tracking, tension, and guide alignment right improves cut accuracy and protects the wheels and bearings.

Last updated: February 2026

Symptoms for band saws

Choose a symptom to see related band saw repairs.

Main causes: dull blade, using the wrong type of blade, feeding work piece to quickly, loose blade tension…

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Main causes: damaged rubber tire, worn wheel bearings, loose blade tension, dull saw blade…

Main causes: dull blade, improper feeding, loose blade tension, not using a work piece guide…

Main causes: dull blade, using the wrong type of blade, weak drive motor…

Main causes: angle indicator needs adjustment, dull blade…

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Repair guides for band saws

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your band saw.

How to replace a band saw on-off switch

How to replace a band saw on-off switch

If the switch won't turn the band saw on or off, it could be defective. Replace the switch, using these steps.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to replace a band saw drive belt

How to replace a band saw drive belt

If the motor runs but the blade doesn't move, it could be that the drive belt is broken. Here's how to replace it.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to replace a band saw blade

How to replace a band saw blade

If the saw blade is dull or damaged and isn't cutting cleanly, replace the blade following these steps.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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