Craftsman 11324610 commercial drill press Parts

The exact weight for the Craftsman 11324610 drill press varies by configuration (bench vs. floor stand) and any installed accessories; the most reliable way to confirm it is to check the machine’s data plate or weigh the drill press in sections.

Best ways to confirm the weight

• Look for a data plate or spec label on the head, column, or base; it may list net weight.
• Weigh it in sections using a bathroom scale: base, column, table assembly, head/motor.
• Remove add-ons before weighing (vise, auxiliary table, work light, guards).
• If you are planning freight shipping, add packing materials and pallet weight.

Practical weight expectations (for planning moves)

Most cast-iron drill presses in this Craftsman class are heavy enough that one-person lifting is unsafe. Plan for a two-person move or a hand truck, and reduce weight by removing major assemblies first.

What you’re doing	What to plan for	Why it helps
Moving within a shop	Two people plus a hand truck	Prevents tip-over and back injury
Loading into a vehicle	Disassemble into major sections	Lowers lift weight and center of gravity
Shipping	Crate or pallet plus straps	Protects the column, spindle, and table lift

Safe handling basics

• Unplug the drill press and remove the chuck key.
• Lower the table and lock it; keep the center of gravity low.
• If you need to lighten it, remove the table first; then remove the head from the column if practical.
• Strap the head and column so they cannot rotate during transport.

Why it matters

Knowing the real weight helps you choose safe lifting equipment, avoid bending the column, and prevent damage to the spindle and table rack during transport.

For help confirming you have the correct model number before ordering parts, use how to find your appliance model number (and what it means for parts).

Last updated: February 2026

On the Craftsman 11324610 drill press, spindle repair usually means removing the quill assembly, replacing worn spindle bearings or the spindle itself, then reassembling and checking runout. This restores smooth rotation and reduces wobble, chatter, and drilling inaccuracy.

Before you start (safety and setup)

• Unplug the drill press and remove the bit.
• Lower the table for clearance and lock it.
• Mark the depth stop and quill return spring housing position so reassembly is easier.
• Take photos as you go; small washers and spacers must go back in the same order.
• If the spindle is bent or the taper is damaged, plan on replacing the spindle, not just the bearings.

Spindle repair steps (typical process)

1. Remove the quill retaining hardware: Take off the quill retaining ring or collar (varies by design) so the quill can slide out.
2. Separate the quill and spindle: Support the quill and press or tap the spindle out carefully (avoid mushrooming the spindle end).
3. Remove and inspect bearings: Pull the spindle bearings; replace any that feel gritty, have play, or show heat discoloration.
4. Install bearings on the spindle: Press bearings on by the correct race (usually the inner race when pressing onto a shaft).
5. Reinstall spindle into the quill: Press the spindle back into the quill, reinstall spacers, and secure the retaining ring/collar.
6. Reassemble and adjust: Reinstall the quill, set the return spring tension, and verify smooth travel and return.

Quick diagnosis: what failed?

Symptom	Most likely cause	What to do
Side-to-side chuck wobble	Worn spindle bearings	Replace bearings, then check runout
Vibration at all speeds	Bent spindle or damaged pulley	Inspect spindle straightness and pulleys
Chuck falls off taper	Dirty or damaged taper	Clean taper; replace spindle if scored
Grinding noise	Bearing failure	Replace bearings immediately

Why it matters

A drill press spindle is the precision “shaft” that carries the chuck and bit. Any bearing play, taper damage, or spindle bend shows up as runout, oversized holes, burning, and broken bits.

Helpful DIY reference

For electrical checks while troubleshooting related issues (like a motor that hums or won’t start after reassembly), use our guide: how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

For the Craftsman 11324610 drill press, five key rules are: wear proper eye protection, secure the workpiece with a clamp or vise, remove the chuck key before starting, use the correct speed for the bit and material, and feed the bit smoothly (ease up as the bit breaks through). These rules prevent injuries and improve hole accuracy.

5 drill press rules we recommend

• Wear safety glasses; avoid loose sleeves, gloves, jewelry, and tie back long hair.
• Clamp the work in a vise or with clamps; never hold small parts by hand.
• Remove the chuck key immediately after tightening the bit.
• Set the right speed before drilling; slower for larger bits and harder materials.
• Control the feed pressure; steady pressure going in, then reduce pressure at breakthrough.

Quick setup checklist (before you pull the switch)

Item to check	What “good” looks like	Why it matters
Bit condition	Sharp, straight, fully seated in chuck	Reduces grabbing and wobble
Work holding	Vise/clamps tight, table locked	Prevents spinning workpiece
Speed selection	Correct RPM for bit size/material	Prevents overheating and breakage
Table height	Bit clears the work and vise	Avoids binding and sudden stops

Why these rules matter

A drill press creates high torque at the bit. If the workpiece is not secured or the speed is wrong, the material can spin, the bit can snap, or the hole can wander. Consistent clamping, correct RPM, and controlled feed protect you and your Craftsman drill press.

Helpful related DIY reading

• Use are diy appliance repairs safe for general safety habits that also apply to power tools.

Last updated: February 2026

For a Craftsman drill press such as model 11324610, a good horsepower depends on what you drill most often. For general home-shop drilling, 1/2 to 3/4 HP is the practical sweet spot; choose 1 HP or more for frequent larger holes in steel and longer duty cycles.

Quick horsepower guide (what to buy for your work)

• 1/3 to 1/2 HP: light-duty drilling, small bits, occasional use
• 1/2 to 3/4 HP: most DIY and hobby work in wood and light metal
• 1 to 1-1/2 HP: frequent metal drilling, larger cutters, longer run times
• 2 HP+: heavy, industrial-style drilling and production work

Specs that matter as much as horsepower

Horsepower helps resist stalling, but drilling performance and safety usually depend more on speed and rigidity.

• Low RPM range: required for steel, hole saws, and large Forstner bits
• Pulley and belt condition/tension: belt slip feels like “low power”
• Quill travel: more travel reduces repositioning on deeper holes
• Chuck size and runout: affects accuracy and bit life
• Table and column rigidity: reduces chatter and oversized holes

Match HP to common jobs

Job	Typical cutter size	Good HP range	Setup note
Wood drilling	1/8 in. to 1/2 in.	1/2 to 3/4 HP	Higher RPM for cleaner holes
Forstner in hardwood	1 in. to 3 in.	3/4 to 1+ HP	Slow speed, steady feed
Mild steel drilling	1/8 in. to 1/2 in.	3/4 to 1+ HP	Low RPM, cutting oil
Hole saws	1-1/2 in. to 4 in.	1+ HP	Clamp work to prevent grabbing

Why it matters

Choosing enough motor power reduces stalling and overheating, but correct RPM, sharp bits, and clamped workpieces usually make the biggest difference in hole quality and control.

For help confirming you are shopping parts for the correct Craftsman model, use how to find your appliance model number (and what it means for parts).

Last updated: February 2026