Delta 36-070 10" miter saw Parts

Delta model 36-070 is a Delta 10-inch miter saw (often described as a 10-inch power miter saw) built for accurate crosscuts and miter cuts in wood. For parts lookup and diagrams for this exact model, use the model search on Sears PartsDirect.

What this model is typically used for

A 10-inch miter saw like the Delta 36-070 is commonly used for trim and framing tasks where repeatable angles matter.

• Crosscutting boards to length
• Miter cutting left or right for corners (trim, picture frames)
• Basic shop and jobsite woodworking
• Cutting common dimensional lumber (2x material)
• Repetitive angle cuts using the miter scale and detents

Typical cutting capacity (what to expect)

Cut capacity varies by setup (fence position, blade kerf, and how the stock is held). Many 10-inch miter saws in this class are designed to handle common trim widths and 2x lumber.

Cut type	What it means	Typical use
90° crosscut	Straight cut across the board	Cutting studs, rails, blocking
45° miter (left/right)	Angled cut on the face	Corners for baseboard and casing
Bevel (if equipped)	Tilts the blade for compound cuts	Crown molding setups

How to confirm you have the right model

Because “36-070” can be misread from worn labels, match the model number on the saw before ordering parts.

• Check the model tag on the saw base, motor housing, or rear frame
• Confirm the model is 36-070 (with the dash)
• Compare the saw’s guard, fence, and handle style to the parts diagrams
• If your saw has a different suffix or revision, search that exact number

Why it matters

Miter saw parts like the blade guard components, switch, brushes, and fence hardware are model-specific. Using the exact Delta 36-070 model number helps ensure the replacement part fits and the saw aligns and operates safely.

Last updated: February 2026

On your Delta 36-070 10-inch miter saw, never cut materials the saw and blade are not designed for (like steel or masonry), and never make cuts where the workpiece cannot be held firmly against the fence and table. Those situations cause binding and kickback.

Materials and cuts to avoid

We treat these as “do not cut” items or setups on a miter saw:

• Ferrous metals (iron or steel) unless the saw and blade are specifically rated for metal cutting
• Masonry (brick, concrete, tile, stone)
• Rip cuts (cutting with the grain along the length of a board)
• Freehand cuts (not supported by the fence, table, and stable work support)
• Very small pieces that put hands close to the blade path
• Warped, twisted, or round stock that cannot sit flat without a jig and clamping

Safer alternatives

Use a tool designed for the job instead of forcing the miter saw:

What you need to do	Better tool/setup	Why it’s safer
Cut steel or iron	Metal-cutting saw rated for metal	Correct blade type and guarding
Cut masonry	Masonry saw or angle grinder with masonry wheel	Handles abrasive dust and load
Rip a board	Table saw, track saw, or circular saw with guide	Better support through the cut
Cut tiny parts	Stop block and hold-down clamp, or cut long then trim	Keeps hands farther away

Setup rules that prevent kickback

Even when cutting wood, these reduce risk and improve accuracy:

• Keep the workpiece flat on the table and tight to the fence
• Clamp short, narrow, or unstable stock
• Let the blade reach full speed before entering the cut
• Confirm the cut clears the fence and table at miter and bevel angles
• Wait for the blade to stop before lifting the saw head or removing offcuts

Why it matters

A miter saw is built for controlled crosscuts and miters with solid support. When the material is too hard, abrasive, thick, or not secured, the blade can grab and throw the workpiece.

For diagrams and replacement parts for Delta model 36-070, use the model parts list, or search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

The 31.6° mark on many miter saws (including common setups used with a Delta 36-070 10-inch miter saw) is a built-in shortcut for cutting crown molding as a compound miter cut. It pairs with a typical 33.9° bevel setting to produce tight corner joints without doing the angle math each time.

What 31.6° is used for

When crown molding is cut flat on the saw table (not nested against the fence), you usually make a compound cut:

• Set the miter to 31.6°
• Set the bevel to 33.9°
• Flip the molding correctly for inside vs. outside corners
• Cut matching left and right pieces for the corner

These two angles are common because they work for the most common crown “spring angles” used in homes.

Quick reference: common crown molding compound settings

Use this as a starting point for typical crown installations.

Crown spring angle	Typical miter setting	Typical bevel setting
38° (common)	31.6°	33.9°
45° (less common)	35.3°	30.0°

Why it matters

Crown molding corners are easy to get wrong because you are joining two pieces at a wall corner while the molding sits at an angle to the wall and ceiling. The 31.6° detent helps you repeat accurate cuts faster, reduces scrap, and speeds up trim work.

Tips to get accurate results on a 10-inch miter saw

Even with the “right” angles, fit depends on setup and material.

• Confirm the spring angle of your crown (often printed on packaging or measured with an angle finder).
• Use test pieces first; small changes in wall angle (not perfectly 90°) affect fit.
• Support long stock with outfeed stands so the molding does not twist during the cut.
• Use a sharp finish blade (higher tooth count) to reduce tear-out.
• Mark ceiling edge and wall edge on the molding so you do not flip it the wrong way.

Getting parts and diagrams for your Delta 36-070

If you are tuning up the saw (fence alignment, bevel lock, detent plate wear, switch issues), we list model-based parts and diagrams where available; you can also search by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026