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Craftsman 917383222 lawn mower

Craftsman 917383222 lawn mower Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 917383222 lawn mower, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 917383222 Walk-Behind Mowers

  • Husqvarna Lawn & Garden Equipment Washer for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 596134901

    Replacement parts diagram

    Washer

    Part #61537

    Replaced by #596134901

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  • Lawn Mower Blade Adapter for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 581547901

    Lawn Mower Blade Adapter

    Part #850977

    Replaced by #581547901

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  • Lawn & Garden Equipment Hex Head Bolt, 5/16-18 X 1/4-in for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 532428867

    Replacement parts diagram

    Screw

    Part #55187

    Replaced by #532428867

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  • American Yard Products Lawn & Garden Equipment Washer for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 532088348

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    American Yard Products Lawn & Garden Equipment Washer

    Part #88348

    Replaced by #532088348

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  • Tapping Screw for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 817021008

    Replacement parts diagram

    Tapping Screw

    Part #750097

    Replaced by #817021008

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  • Hairpin Cotter for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 532051793

    Replacement parts diagram

    Hairpin

    Part #51793

    Replaced by #532051793

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  • Husqvarna Lawn Mower Height Adjuster Knob for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 532087877

    Replacement parts diagram

    Walk-behind Lawn Mower Selector Knob

    Part #87877

    Replaced by #532087877

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  • Lawn & Garden Equipment Shoulder Bolt for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 532174719

    Replacement parts diagram

    Shoulder Bolt

    Part #84921

    Replaced by #532174719

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  • Clip for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 85827

    Replacement parts diagram

    Clip

    Part #85827

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Husqvarna Lawn Mower Height Adjuster Lever for Craftsman 917383222 - Part 532401621

    Replacement parts diagram

    Spring

    Part #850856

    Replaced by #532401621

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Craftsman Lawn Mower 917383222 FAQs

For a Craftsman push mower like model 917383222, use fresh regular unleaded gasoline. In most areas, E10 (up to 10% ethanol) is the standard and works well; avoid old fuel and higher-ethanol blends because they commonly cause hard starting and rough running.

What to use (and what to avoid)

  • Use fresh regular unleaded from a busy station.
  • E10 is OK for most walk-behind mower engines.
  • Avoid E15/E20/E85; higher ethanol content often leads to fuel-system problems.
  • Avoid stale gas (typically anything older than 30 days without stabilizer).
  • Do not mix oil into the gas unless your mower is a 2-cycle engine (most Craftsman walk-behind mowers are 4-cycle and use straight gas).

Quick fuel checklist

Fuel choice Good for most 4-cycle push mowers? Notes
Regular unleaded (87 octane) Yes Best everyday choice
E10 (up to 10% ethanol) Yes Common at pumps
Non-ethanol gas Yes Helpful for storage, if available
E15 or higher No Higher risk of starting and carb issues

Why it matters

Fuel quality is the number-one cause of seasonal no-start problems. Fresh gas helps prevent varnish buildup in the carburetor and keeps the mower starting easily after storage.

If your mower already runs poorly after fueling

If it surges, stalls, or will not start after sitting, old fuel is usually the culprit. We recommend draining the tank, refilling with fresh gas, and following our guide on how to keep lawn mower gas from going bad.

Last updated: February 2026

Hydrostatic transmission repair costs vary widely by mower type and what failed. For a walk-behind mower like Craftsman 917383222, the most common “won’t move” fixes are usually drive-belt, cable, wheel, or linkage related; true hydrostatic unit replacement (more common on riding mowers) is typically the highest-cost scenario.

Typical cost ranges (what most people actually pay)

  • Diagnosis/inspection: $75 to $150
  • Minor repair (adjustment, linkage, cable, fluid service where applicable): $100 to $300
  • Drive system repair (belt, pulleys, wheel drive parts): $150 to $500
  • Hydrostatic transaxle replacement (riding mowers): $800 to $2,500+ (parts and labor)

What changes the price the most

  • Mower type: walk-behind vs. riding mower (riding mower hydrostatic transaxles cost far more)
  • What failed: control linkage vs. internal pump/motor wear
  • Labor time: seized fasteners, rust, and deck removal add time
  • Parts availability: OEM assemblies cost more than small hardware
  • Collateral damage: worn pulleys, bent brackets, or damaged mounting hardware

Quick checks before paying for transmission work

If the mower “won’t move,” we recommend ruling out common drive issues first:

  • Confirm the drive control cable is actually pulling the engagement mechanism.
  • Check for a slipping or broken drive belt (if equipped).
  • Inspect wheels for stripped hubs or a stuck drive pawl.
  • Look for missing clips or loose fasteners on the drive linkage.
  • Verify the blade area is clear and nothing is binding the crankshaft.

Parts that often come up during drive repairs

These are common small parts that get replaced when linkages loosen or hardware goes missing:

Part What it’s used for When it helps
Retainer clip 532085179 Secures linkage/pins Linkage keeps popping off
Hairpin 532051793 Cotter-style retainer Rods/pins won’t stay in place
Shoulder bolt 532174719 Pivot/guide fastener Slop in a lever or bracket

Why it matters

A hydrostatic replacement is one of the most expensive mower repairs, so confirming the problem is not a belt, wheel-drive, or linkage issue can save a lot of time and money. For motion problems, our lawn mower wont move troubleshooting video motion drive failure guide is a strong starting point.

Last updated: February 2026

For a Craftsman walk-behind mower model 917383222, there is no mower deck drive belt size to match because this model is a walk-behind mower (not a riding mower with a belt-driven cutting deck). If you are trying to fix a “won’t move” issue, the drive system parts (not a deck belt) are the right place to focus.

Confirm you have the right equipment type

Model 917383222 is listed as a gas walk-behind mower. A “54-inch deck belt” spec applies to many riding mowers and lawn tractors, not walk-behind mowers.

Quick check:

  • Walk-behind mower: you push it; cutting blade is direct-drive; no 54-inch deck
  • Riding mower/lawn tractor: you sit on it; deck is belt-driven; deck width is often 42 to 54 inches

What to check instead (common “belt” symptoms on a walk-behind)

If the mower cuts but will not self-propel, these are the most common causes:

  • Drive control cable out of adjustment or stretched
  • Worn drive belt (self-propel belt) or traction belt (varies by design)
  • Worn drive wheel gears or damaged wheel assembly
  • Debris binding the transmission pulley area
  • Incorrect handle control position or damaged selector components

For step-by-step help diagnosing a self-propel problem, use our DIY guide: lawn mower wont move troubleshooting video motion drive failure.

Parts on this model page that can help during drive and deck service

Even when the issue is not a belt, these parts are commonly replaced during blade and underside service:

What you are servicing Part that often gets replaced Why it matters
Blade mounting Lawn mower blade adapter 581547901 A worn adapter can cause vibration, poor cut, or blade fit issues
Cutting blade Lawn mower blade, 20-in 532145106 A bent or dull blade reduces cut quality and stresses the engine
Hardware Lawn & garden equipment screw 532851084 Stripped or missing fasteners can prevent secure reassembly

Why it matters

Ordering a “deck belt” for a walk-behind mower usually leads to the wrong part and delays the repair. Matching the repair to the correct drive system (self-propel components, blade adapter, blade, and hardware) gets the mower back to cutting and moving safely.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Craftsman self-propelled mower model 917383222 pulls to one side, the most common causes are uneven wheel traction (tire pressure or wheel wear), a dragging wheel, or a drive/height adjustment that is not matched side-to-side. Start with the wheels and deck height checks before replacing parts.

Quick checks that fix most “pulling” problems

  • Set both front wheels to the same cutting height (same notch/position on each side).
  • Check tire pressure (if your wheels are pneumatic) and inflate both sides evenly.
  • Clean packed grass from under the deck and around the wheels.
  • With the engine off, push the mower forward; it should roll straight without resistance.
  • Engage self-propel and observe which wheel slips or drags.

What to inspect (and what it means)

What you notice Likely cause What to do next
Mower veers only when self-propel is engaged One drive wheel is slipping or not driving evenly Check for debris, worn drive components, or a binding wheel
Mower veers even when pushed (self-propel off) Dragging wheel, bent hardware, or deck rubbing Spin each wheel by hand; clear debris and check for rubbing
Pulling started after blade service Blade adapter or blade not seated square Reinstall blade and adapter correctly; inspect for damage

Parts that can contribute on this model

If you find looseness at the blade mount or signs the blade is not running true, inspect the blade mounting stack-up. These parts are commonly involved:

Why it matters

A mower that pulls to one side is harder to control and often signals uneven drive traction or a dragging wheel. Fixing it early helps prevent premature wear on the drive system and reduces scalping from an uneven deck height.

Helpful DIY guidance

If you are removing the blade to inspect the adapter or clean the deck, use our guide: lawn mower blade removal tool.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your walk-behind mowers

Choose a symptom to see related walk-behind mower repairs.

Main causes: damaged cutting blade, loose cutting blade, damaged flywheel key, engine needs tune up…

Main causes: dirty carburetor, bad spark plug, clogged air filter, engine choke problems, clogged gas cap vent…

Main causes: drive control cable failure, worn or broken drive belt, bad transmission, broken drive wheel…

Main causes: stale gas, engine needs tune up, bad spark plug, dead battery, bad recoil starter, faulty safety switch, ba…

Main causes: engine needs tune up, dirty or clogged carburetor, damaged flywheel key…

Main causes: uneven wheel height settings, damaged wheel, dull or damaged cutting blade…

Repair guides for gas walk-behind mowers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your walk-behind lawn mower.

How to replace a lawn mower front deck tray

How to replace a lawn mower front deck tray

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 60 minutes or less
How to replace a lawn mower transmission

How to replace a lawn mower transmission

Learn how to replace the transmission on your lawn mower if it's locked up or won't drive the wheels.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 60 minutes or less
How to replace a lawn mower flywheel key on a flathead engine

How to replace a lawn mower flywheel key on a flathead engine

When you hit a hard object with your mower, the flywheel can shear to protect more expensive components. Learn how to re…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less

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