Craftsman 31510510 3/8" electric drill Parts

A power drill (like the Craftsman 31510510 3/8" electric drill) is built to drill holes and can also drive screws using a chuck that grips many bit types. A power driver (most often an impact driver) is built mainly for driving fasteners with higher torque using a quick-change hex collet.

Quick comparison

Feature	Power drill	Power driver (impact driver)
Primary job	Drilling holes; light to moderate screw driving	Driving screws/lag bolts; fastening work
Bit holding	Keyless or keyed chuck (many shank styles)	1/4-inch hex quick-change collet
Torque feel	Smooth, controlled	Strong, pulsing impacts to reduce cam-out
Best materials	Wood, metal, plastic (with the right bit)	Wood framing, deck screws, stubborn fasteners

Which one should you use?

• Choose a power drill for drilling accurate holes, using larger drill bits, or when you need steady speed control.
• Choose a power driver for long screws, repetitive fastening, or when screws keep stripping out.
• For mixed projects, many DIYers keep both: drill for holes, driver for fasteners.

Why it matters

Using the right tool helps prevent stripped screw heads, broken bits, and overheated motors. A drill’s chuck gives you flexibility for different bit types; an impact driver’s torque and impacts make fastening faster and more reliable.

Helpful DIY reference

If you are troubleshooting a corded drill that will not run or has intermittent power, start with basic electrical checks using a multimeter and cord inspection steps from how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

There is no single “highest rated” cordless drill for every job; the best pick depends on what you drill, how often you use it, and which battery platform you want to stay on. For most homeowners, a 18V to 20V Max brushless drill/driver kit from a major brand is the safest all-around choice.

How we recommend choosing a top cordless drill

• Battery platform first: pick a brand you will keep long-term (batteries cost more than the tool over time).
• Brushless motor: runs cooler, typically lasts longer, and delivers better power efficiency.
• Voltage class: 12V for compact/light work; 18V to 20V Max for most DIY and remodeling.
• Chuck size: 3/8-inch is common for general drilling; 1/2-inch helps with larger bits and hole saws.
• Clutch and speed ranges: more clutch settings help prevent stripped screws; 2-speed gearboxes cover drilling and driving.

Quick match guide (what “highest rated” usually means)

Your main use	What to look for	Typical kit to buy
Furniture, light repairs	12V compact, brushless if possible	1 battery + charger + bits
General DIY, decks, studs	18V to 20V Max, brushless, 2-speed	2 batteries + charger + bag
Masonry (brick/block)	Hammer drill function	Hammer drill/driver kit
Big holes, mixing, heavy drilling	High torque, side handle, 1/2-inch chuck	Drill + separate impact driver

Features that matter most in real use

• Ergonomics and balance (less wrist fatigue)
• Battery capacity (2.0Ah for light work; 4.0Ah to 6.0Ah for longer runtime)
• LED light and belt hook (small, but useful)
• All-metal chuck (better grip on bits under load)

Why it matters

A “top-rated” drill is usually the one that matches your tasks and battery ecosystem. The right voltage, brushless motor, and battery size prevent stalled bits, stripped fasteners, and premature tool wear.

For wiring-related troubleshooting on corded tools like the Craftsman 31510510 3/8-inch electric drill, our how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video is a practical starting point.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Craftsman 31510510 3/8" electric drill, the numbered ring behind the chuck is the clutch setting: lower numbers limit torque sooner (less driving force), and higher numbers allow more torque before the clutch slips and you hear a clicking/ratcheting sound.

What the numbers control (and what they do not)

The clutch is designed to help prevent stripped screws and overdriving fasteners.

• Lower numbers: clutch slips earlier; best for small screws and softer materials
• Higher numbers: more torque before slipping; best for larger screws and tougher materials
• Drill-bit icon (if present): typically bypasses the clutch for drilling (maximum torque output)
• Speed trigger: controls RPM; it is separate from the clutch numbers
• Forward/reverse switch: changes direction; it does not change torque limits

Quick guide: which setting should I use?

Use this as a starting point, then adjust up or down based on how the screw seats.

Task	Typical clutch range	What you should notice
Driving small screws into soft wood	1 to 6	Screw seats without stripping; clutch may click at the end
General household screwdriving	6 to 12	Smooth drive; minimal cam-out
Larger screws or denser wood	12 to max	Less clutch clicking; more driving force
Drilling holes	Drill-bit icon (or max)	No clutch slip; steady drilling power

If the drill clicks constantly or won’t drive screws

These checks solve most “no power” or “keeps slipping” complaints on corded drills.

• Turn the clutch up a few numbers and try again
• Make sure the chuck is tight and the bit is not slipping
• Use the correct bit type and size to prevent cam-out
• Check the extension cord; use a heavier gauge cord for longer runs
• If power cuts in and out, inspect the cord and plug for damage and test continuity with a meter

Why it matters

Correct clutch settings protect your work and your drill. Setting the clutch too high can strip screw heads or split wood; setting it too low makes the clutch slip early so the screw never fully seats.

For safe electrical testing and wire checks, we recommend following the steps in how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

On a Craftsman 31510510 3/8" electric drill, the main parts are the housing (body), trigger switch, motor (armature and field), chuck, and power cord; on the drill bit itself, the key parts are the shank, flutes, lands, and tip.

Common drill parts (the tool)

These are the names customers most often use when troubleshooting noise, power loss, or wobble:

• Housing (case): the outer body you hold
• Trigger switch: turns the drill on and controls speed
• Forward/reverse selector: changes rotation direction (if equipped)
• Motor: typically includes the armature, field, and brushes
• Gearcase: transfers motor power to the chuck
• Chuck: clamps the drill bit (keyed or keyless)
• Power cord and strain relief: brings power in and protects the cord at the entry point

Common drill bit parts (the cutting tool)

When someone says “parts of a drill,” they often mean the drill bit:

• Shank: the smooth end held by the chuck
• Neck: area between shank and body (often where size markings appear)
• Flutes: spiral grooves that carry chips out
• Lands: the raised surfaces between flutes
• Body: the section with flutes and lands
• Tip (point): the cutting end (includes cutting lips and chisel edge)

Quick reference table

If you mean...	Part name you want	What it does
The drill tool	Chuck	Holds the bit straight and tight
The drill tool	Trigger switch	Starts the drill and varies speed
The drill tool	Brushes	Feed power to the spinning armature
The drill bit	Flutes	Clear chips and reduce heat
The drill bit	Shank	Lets the chuck grip the bit

Why it matters

Using the right name helps you diagnose faster. For example, a wobble usually points to the chuck or a bent bit shank, while sparking often points to motor brushes.

Helpful DIY reading

For safe electrical checks on a corded drill, use how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

To replace the drill bit on your Craftsman 31510510 3/8" electric drill, fully open the chuck, insert the bit straight, then tighten the chuck securely so the bit does not slip under load.

Steps to change the drill bit

• Unplug the drill (corded models) before touching the chuck.
• Hold the drill firmly and rotate the chuck sleeve counterclockwise to open the jaws.
• Insert the drill bit shank all the way into the chuck (centered).
• Rotate the chuck sleeve clockwise until it is hand-tight.
• Give the bit a quick tug to confirm it is locked in.
• Plug the drill back in and briefly test at low speed.

Key details that prevent slipping

A loose bit can wobble, slip, or damage the chuck jaws. These quick checks help the bit stay centered.

What to check	What “good” looks like	What to do if it’s not right
Bit seating	Bit is straight and fully inserted	Reopen chuck, reseat bit, retighten
Tightness	Chuck is firmly hand-tight	Tighten again; avoid overtightening
Chuck jaws	Jaws close evenly around the bit	Clean jaws; inspect for wear

If your drill has a keyless chuck vs. keyed chuck

Most 3/8" Craftsman drills use a keyless chuck, but some versions use a chuck key.

• Keyless chuck: tighten by hand until very snug.
• Keyed chuck: tighten with the chuck key in all three holes (if present) for the most secure grip.

Why it matters

A properly tightened chuck protects the bit, improves hole accuracy, and reduces vibration that can wear the chuck, bearings, and motor over time.

For more DIY safety basics before electrical tool work, use our guide: are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026