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Samsung RF23HTEDBSR/AA-01 refrigerator

Samsung RF23HTEDBSR/AA-01 refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Samsung RF23HTEDBSR/AA-01 refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Samsung Refrigerator RF23HTEDBSR/AA-01 FAQs

On the Samsung RF23HTEDBSR refrigerator, the “23” is part of the model series name and is commonly used to indicate the approximate capacity class (about 23 cubic feet) for this French door, bottom-mount design. For operating details and features specific to your unit, use the owner's manual.

What “23” means on this refrigerator model

In appliance model numbers, brands often embed a size or series identifier. For RF23HTEDBSR, “23” is used as a capacity class indicator rather than a setting or error code.

  • It points to the refrigerator’s approximate size category (around 23 cu. ft.).
  • It helps distinguish this series from similar Samsung models (RF26, RF28, etc.).
  • It is not a temperature setting; temperatures are set with the control panel.
  • It is not an error code; error codes show on the display and relate to sensors or system status.

Don’t confuse “23” with temperature numbers

Your RF23HTEDBSR control panel uses real temperature values. For example, the freezer range includes -23 °C (which equals -8 °F) as the coldest setting.

Item What it refers to Example on RF23HTEDBSR
“23” in model number Series or capacity class RF23HTEDBSR
“-23 °C” on display Freezer temperature setting -23 °C (coldest)
Display code/letters Status or diagnostic info Icons, flashing display, etc.

Why it matters

Knowing that “23” is a model identifier helps you choose the correct parts and instructions for your exact refrigerator, especially for common repairs like ice maker, water filter, and temperature-sensor issues.

Helpful next steps

  • Confirm your full model number from the rating label before ordering parts.
  • Use the manual to match control panel settings and features to your exact configuration.
  • If you are seeing a code on the display, use an error-code guide instead of interpreting the model number.

Last updated: February 2026

Bottom-freezer refrigerators like the Samsung RF23HTEDBSR put fresh food at eye level, but the tradeoff is that frozen items sit lower in a pull-out drawer. That design can mean more bending, heavier loads on drawer hardware, and sometimes less convenient freezer organization for frequent access.

Common disadvantages (what we see most often)

  • You bend more to reach frozen foods, especially items at the bottom of the drawer.
  • The freezer drawer can get heavy when fully loaded; that extra weight increases wear on slide rails and hinges.
  • Freezer organization can be trickier; stacked items can hide what you need.
  • Cold air spills out quickly when the drawer is open, so long “search time” can increase frost and temperature swings.
  • If the refrigerator is not level, the drawer and doors may not open and close smoothly.

Tips to reduce the downsides

We recommend these habits to make a bottom freezer easier to live with and to reduce strain on parts:

  • Keep frequently used frozen items in the upper basket (if equipped).
  • Avoid overloading the drawer; distribute weight evenly left to right.
  • Open the drawer only as long as needed to limit frost buildup.
  • Keep food from blocking vents so air circulates properly.
  • Level the refrigerator carefully so doors and the freezer drawer align and seal correctly (see the leveling section in the owner's manual).

Quick comparison: bottom freezer vs top freezer

Feature Bottom freezer Top freezer
Fresh food access Easier (eye level) More bending
Frozen food access More bending Easier
Freezer loading Heavy pull-out drawer Lighter swing door
Organization Often “stacking” in drawer Shelves can be simpler

Why it matters

Most “bottom freezer problems” we help with are really usability and wear issues: heavy drawers, longer door-open time (more frost), and sealing or alignment concerns if the unit is not level. Good loading habits and proper leveling help the refrigerator run efficiently and keep temperatures stable.

Last updated: February 2026

A bottom-freezer refrigerator like the Samsung RF23HTEDBSR typically lasts 15 to 20 years with normal household use. Lifespan depends most on compressor run time, airflow/venting, door-seal condition, and keeping the condenser area clean; our owner's manual covers day-to-day care that helps it last.

Typical lifespan and what affects it

Most bottom-freezer and French door refrigerators land in the same general range, but usage and maintenance can shift the outcome.

  • 15 to 20 years is the typical life expectancy for a bottom-freezer refrigerator
  • Heavy use (large household, frequent door openings) shortens life
  • Poor airflow around the cabinet and blocked interior vents increase run time
  • Ice maker and water dispenser use adds wear to valves, filters, and moving parts
  • Heat, humidity, and dusty environments increase stress on the cooling system

Quick care checklist that extends life

These are the highest-impact habits we recommend for RF23HTEDBSR owners.

  • Keep food from blocking the rear air vents so cold air circulates freely
  • Minimize long door-open times to reduce frost buildup and extra run time
  • Maintain installation clearances on the sides, back, and top for airflow
  • Replace the water filter on schedule to protect water flow and ice production
  • If you will be away more than 3 weeks, empty the unit, unplug it, shut off water, dry the interior, and leave doors open (prevents odors and moisture issues)

Common “wear items” vs. long-life components

Component area Typical wear pattern What you can do
Ice and water system Clogs, slow fill, no ice Replace filter; check for kinked tubing
Defrost system Frost buildup, warm temps Keep vents clear; address frost early
Cooling sensors/fans Temperature swings, noisy operation Don’t overload; keep airflow paths open
Sealed system/compressor Usually long-life Keep cabinet ventilation clear to reduce run time

Why it matters

A refrigerator that runs longer to maintain temperature uses more energy and puts extra strain on the compressor and defrost system. Good airflow and routine filter changes are the simplest ways to protect performance and maximize lifespan.

Last updated: February 2026

On Samsung refrigerator model RF23HTEDBSR, RD is the targeted defrost option used for the refrigerator (fresh food) cooling system, while FD is the full forced-defrost routine used to melt heavier ice buildup that can affect airflow and the ice maker area. For the exact display prompts and how your controls step through each mode, use the RF23HTEDBSR owner's manual.

What each mode is used for

These modes are service-style defrost options; the difference is how broad the defrost action is.

  • RD (refrigerator defrost): Used when symptoms are mainly in the fresh food section (warm fridge, freezer still cold, frost behind the refrigerator evaporator cover).
  • FD (forced defrost): Used when icing is more severe or recurring (fan rubbing noise, airflow blocked, ice maker compartment freezing up, repeated frost return).
  • RD first, FD next: Start with RD for a localized refrigerator-side issue; use FD when you need a deeper, whole-system melt.

What to expect during FD or RD

Plan for meltwater and unusual sounds; that is normal during an active defrost.

  • Beeping or changing indicators while the mode runs
  • Fans may pause to prevent blowing warm air
  • Dripping or sizzling sounds as ice melts on heaters
  • Water may overflow if the drain is restricted (puddles under drawers or in the bottom)

Quick comparison

Mode Scope Best used when What it helps confirm
RD Refrigerator section defrost Fridge warm, freezer OK Fresh food evaporator frost issue
FD Full forced defrost routine Heavy or recurring icing, ice maker area freezing System-wide icing or airflow restriction

Why it matters

Using RD vs FD helps you match the defrost to the symptom. A targeted RD clears refrigerator-side frost faster; FD is the right choice when ice buildup is affecting multiple areas and repeatedly blocking airflow.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

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These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

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