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Craftsman 11327580 8" tilting arbor bench saw

Craftsman 11327580 8" tilting arbor bench saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 11327580 8" tilting arbor bench saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 11327580 Power Tools

  • Fence Assembly for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 125

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    Fence Assembly

    Part #125

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Screw Block for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 56

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    Screw Block

    Part #56

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Retaining Ring for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 6331

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    Retaining Ring

    Part #6331

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Clamp Assembly for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 127

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    Clamp Assembly

    Part #127

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Dial Assem for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 6347

    #NI

    All parts diagram

    Dial Assem

    Part #6347

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 6376

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    Washer

    Part #6376

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Clamp for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 93

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    Clamp

    Part #93

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Housing for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 6304

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    Housing

    Part #6304

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • V-pulley for Craftsman 11327580 - Part 9-2882

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    V-pulley

    Part #9-2882

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer for Craftsman 11327580 - Part S-1271

    Unit diagram

    Washer

    Part #S-1271

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman 8" Tilting Arbor Bench Saw 11327580 FAQs

No. Arbor nuts are not universal; the thread size and direction (right-hand or left-hand) depend on the saw’s arbor design. For a Craftsman 11327580 8" tilting arbor bench saw, you must match the nut to the arbor threads and the flange stack so the blade clamps securely.

What’s usually different between arbor nuts

Even when two saws use the same blade bore, the arbor nut can still be different.

  • Thread diameter and pitch (for example, 5/8-inch arbors are common on many 10-inch saws, but not guaranteed)
  • Thread direction (some saws use left-hand threads so rotation helps keep the nut tight)
  • Nut style (hex nut vs. flange nut, thickness, washer face)
  • Arbor length and washer/flange setup (changes how much thread engagement you get)
  • Brand and model-specific hardware (Craftsman, Ridgid, Delta, etc. can vary)
Quick fit check (before you buy or install)

Use these checks to avoid cross-threading or a blade that will not clamp flat.

  1. Unplug the saw and remove the throat plate.
  2. Remove the blade and inspect the arbor threads for damage or flattening.
  3. Thread the nut on by hand only for the first few turns.
  4. Confirm the nut seats fully and clamps the outer blade washer/flange evenly.
Common sizes vs. what you should rely on

Typical patterns help, but the arbor threads are what matter.

Saw/blade category Typical blade bore Arbor nut universality
Many 10-inch table saws 5/8 in. Not universal (threads and direction vary)
Many 12-inch saws 1 in. Not universal
Benchtop/compact saws Varies Not universal
Why it matters

The arbor nut is what keeps the blade clamped to the arbor. If the nut is the wrong thread, wrong direction, or wrong thickness, the blade can wobble, slip, or fail to tighten correctly, which affects cut quality and safety.

Helpful related guidance

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, you can use an 8-inch blade on a 10-inch table saw, including the Craftsman 11327580 8-inch tilting arbor bench saw, as long as the blade’s arbor hole matches your saw and the blade is rated for the saw’s RPM. Expect reduced maximum cut depth compared with a larger blade.

What must match before you install the blade
  • Arbor size (center hole): The blade bore must fit the saw’s arbor shaft.
  • Blade speed rating: The blade’s max RPM rating must meet or exceed the saw’s no-load speed.
  • Kerf and plate thickness: Make sure the blade clears the throat opening and doesn’t rub the insert.
  • Blade type for the job: Rip, crosscut, combination, or dado (if your setup supports it).
  • Guard and splitter/riving knife fit: Smaller blades can change how the guard aligns.
What changes when you downsize from 10-inch to 8-inch

Using a smaller diameter blade mainly affects cutting capacity and sometimes dust collection and guarding alignment.

Blade diameter Typical max cut depth at 90° Best use case
10-inch About 3-1/8 inches General purpose, deeper cuts
8-inch About 2 inches Thinner stock, finer control
Dado note (common reason people ask)

Many 8-inch dado sets are designed to be used on 10-inch saws because dado cuts are non-through cuts. If you plan to run a dado stack, confirm your arbor length, flange clearance, and that your setup supports dado use.

Why it matters

Blade diameter affects cut depth, and mismatched arbor size or an under-rated RPM blade can cause vibration, poor cut quality, or unsafe operation. Matching the arbor and speed rating keeps your Craftsman saw cutting smoothly and safely.

For more DIY safety guidance before working on power tools, use our are diy appliance repairs safe article.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Craftsman 11327580 table saw still runs and the arbor tilts and raises smoothly, the best way to get rid of it is to sell or donate it; if it is unsafe or incomplete, recycle it as scrap metal and dispose of sharp blades separately so nobody gets hurt.

Best options (in order)
  • Sell it if it powers on and the blade height and tilt adjustments work.
  • Donate it if it is complete (guard, fence, miter gauge) and reasonably safe.
  • Give it away for parts if the motor runs but the saw is worn or missing accessories.
  • Recycle as scrap metal if the frame is damaged, the arbor is bent, or it is not worth repairing.
  • Dispose of blades safely (see below) instead of tossing them loose in the trash.
Blade and accessory safety (do this first)

Before moving the saw out of your shop or garage:

  • Unplug the cord and remove the blade.
  • Lower the blade fully and lock adjustments (if possible).
  • Remove loose accessories (fence, miter gauge, throat plate) and bundle them.
  • Wrap sharp items (blades, dado sets) in heavy cardboard and tape the edges.
  • Bag small hardware so it does not spill during transport.
Quick decision guide
Condition of the saw What we recommend Why
Runs, cuts straight, complete Sell or donate Keeps a usable power tool in service
Runs but missing parts Give away or sell as-is Someone can rebuild it with parts
Does not run, damaged, unsafe Scrap metal recycling Safest end-of-life option
Why it matters

Table saws are heavy and have exposed sharp components. Handling the blade and cord correctly reduces the risk of cuts, punctures, and accidental start-up while you are moving or disposing of the saw.

For help identifying the exact model number on the tag before listing it, use how to find your appliance model number (and what it means for parts).

Last updated: February 2026

Common table saw mistakes on the Craftsman 11327580 (8-inch tilting arbor bench saw) include skipping basic safety steps, using the wrong cutting setup, and forcing stock through the blade. These errors increase kickback risk, reduce cut accuracy, and can damage the blade, fence, or arbor.

Most common mistakes to avoid
  • Not wearing proper PPE (eye protection and hearing protection)
  • Cutting without a splitter or riving knife when the saw is designed to use one
  • Standing directly behind the workpiece (puts you in the kickback line)
  • Using the rip fence and miter gauge together for the same cut (can pinch the work)
  • Using a dull, dirty, or incorrect blade for the material
  • Setting the blade too high above the workpiece
  • Cutting freehand instead of using the fence or miter gauge
  • Not using push sticks or push blocks for narrow rips
Quick setup checks before you cut

Use this short checklist to reduce binding and kickback:

  • Confirm the blade is sharp, clean, and tightened
  • Verify the fence is parallel to the blade
  • Make sure the miter gauge is used for crosscuts and the fence is used for rips
  • Support long boards with outfeed support so the cut stays flat
  • Keep the tabletop clear so offcuts cannot contact the spinning blade
Blade height and control: what to aim for
Item Good practice What goes wrong if ignored
Blade height Keep blade just high enough to clear the stock Higher blade exposure increases severity of contact and can worsen tear-out
Feed rate Steady, controlled feed Forcing the cut can stall the motor and increase burning or kickback
Hand position Use push tools for narrow stock Hands drift too close to the blade
Why it matters

Most table saw incidents start with binding or loss of control. A correct cutting method (right guide, sharp blade, proper stance, and push tools) keeps the workpiece moving predictably and helps protect the saw’s arbor, bearings, and alignment.

Helpful DIY safety context

For general DIY safety habits that apply to power tools, review are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026

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