How do I reset my Amana oven?
To reset your Amana AER6303MFW1 electric range oven, clear the control first, then do a power reset by turning the range off at the breaker (or unplugging it) for 1 to 2 minutes and restoring power. This reboots the electronic oven control.
- Press CLEAR/OFF once to stop any active bake or broil cycle.
- If the display is still acting up, switch OFF the range circuit breaker (or unplug the cord).
- Wait 1 to 2 minutes.
- Restore power and set the clock.
- Test BAKE at 350°F for 10 minutes.
A reset will not fix a failed component. These checks narrow it down:
- No display or dead keypad: check the house breaker, then inspect the power cord connection at the terminal block.
- Oven heats wrong or shuts off early: the oven temperature sensor can cause false temperature readings.
- Bake not heating but broil works: the bake element is a common failure point.
- Intermittent operation: look for loose or heat-damaged wiring connections behind the back panel.
| Symptom after reset | Most likely area to check | Common next step |
|---|---|---|
| Blank display | Power supply, wiring, terminal block | Inspect connections; replace damaged parts |
| Oven temperature way off | Oven temperature sensor | Test sensor resistance; replace if out of range |
| No bake heat | Bake element | Visual inspection for blisters; continuity test |
| Burner not regulating | Surface element control switch | Check switch for proper cycling |
- Range terminal block WPW10245259 (burnt or loose power connections)
- Range oven temperature sensor WPW10181986 (temperature errors, overheating, underheating)
- Range bake element WPW10308477 (no bake heat)
- Range surface element control switch WP3148952 (surface element won’t cycle correctly)
A “reset” clears a stuck control state, but it cannot correct a bad sensor, failed heating element, or overheated power connection. Doing the reset first helps you avoid replacing parts that are still good.
Last updated: February 2026
Who makes Amana electric ranges?
Amana electric ranges, including model AER6303MFW1, are made by Whirlpool Corporation. Amana is a Whirlpool-owned brand, so Whirlpool designs, builds, and supports Amana-branded cooking appliances and their replacement parts.
When you shop parts for an Amana range like AER6303MFW1, you will often see Whirlpool-style part numbering and compatible components across Whirlpool family brands.
Common examples on this model include:
- Oven temperature sensing parts such as the range oven temperature sensor WPW10181986
- Heating components such as the range bake element WPW10308477
- Power connection components such as the range terminal block WPW10245259
- Cooktop controls such as the range surface element control switch WP3148952
These brands are commonly associated with Whirlpool’s manufacturing and parts ecosystem:
| Brand on the appliance | Typical parts ecosystem | What you may notice |
|---|---|---|
| Amana | Whirlpool | Similar part numbering and designs |
| Maytag | Whirlpool | Shared components on many models |
| KitchenAid | Whirlpool | Higher-end variants, some shared parts |
| JennAir | Whirlpool | Premium variants, more model-specific parts |
Knowing Whirlpool makes Amana ranges helps you troubleshoot and buy parts with confidence. It also explains why many electrical and heating components (like a bake element, terminal block, or sensor) follow Whirlpool engineering standards and replacement patterns.
To avoid mismatches, we recommend:
- Match the full model number exactly: AER6303MFW1
- Compare the part ID (not just the description)
- Confirm the symptom first (for example: no heat, inaccurate oven temp, burner not cycling)
- Inspect wiring and connections if you suspect a power or heating issue
- Use safe electrical testing practices; see how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video
Last updated: February 2026
Why is my Amana electric range oven not working?
If your Amana AER6303MFW1 electric range oven is not working, the most common causes are a power supply problem (tripped breaker or loose cord connection), a failed heating part (bake element), or a bad temperature-sensing/control component. Start with power checks, then test the heating circuit.
- Confirm the range has 240 volts at the outlet (a range can light up on 120V but not heat).
- Reset the double-pole circuit breaker fully (OFF, then ON).
- Make sure the oven is not in Delay Start or Sabbath mode (if equipped).
- Try Bake at 350°F and listen for a relay click; note whether the oven preheats at all.
- If the cooktop works but the oven does not, focus on the bake/broil circuit.
In the AER6303MFW1, these parts commonly stop the oven from heating:
- Bake element: often breaks or burns open; the oven will not heat properly (or at all).
- Oven temperature sensor: can read wrong temperature and prevent normal heating.
- Control or wiring: a loose/burned connection can interrupt power to the element.
| Symptom | What it usually points to | Model-matched part |
|---|---|---|
| No heat on Bake, broil may still work | Failed bake element | Range bake element WPW10308477 |
| Oven heats erratically or shuts off early | Bad temperature sensor | Range oven temperature sensor WPW10181986 |
| Intermittent power, burning smell at cord area | Loose/burned terminal connection | Range terminal block WPW10245259 |
- Unplug the range or shut off the breaker before inspecting wiring or parts.
- Inspect the bake element for blisters, cracks, or holes.
- If you have a meter, check the bake element for continuity (an open reading means it is failed).
- Check the terminal block area for heat damage (melted plastic, scorched wires).
- If wiring repairs are needed, use our guide: how to repair broken or damaged wires video.
An oven that will not heat is often a simple electrical or heating-circuit failure. Fixing the correct component (element, sensor, or power connection) restores safe, consistent baking and helps prevent repeat failures from overheated or loose wiring.
Last updated: February 2026
Why is the display not working on my Amana gas stove?
Your Amana AER6303MFW1 is an electric freestanding range (not gas); a blank or dead display is usually caused by a power supply problem (lost L1 or L2 on the 240V circuit), a loose or overheated connection at the power terminal area, or a failed control/console component.
- Reset power: turn the range breaker OFF for 5 minutes, then ON.
- Make sure the breaker is fully reset (a half-tripped 2-pole breaker can leave partial power).
- Check whether the cooktop elements heat; partial power can leave some functions working while the display stays dark.
- If the display went out after moving the range, focus on the rear power connection area.
- If the display is blank and keys do nothing, suspect the control/console after power is confirmed.
| What you notice | Most likely cause | What to do next |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing works (no heat, no lights) | No power to range | Reset breaker; verify outlet power; inspect cord connection |
| Cooktop heats but display is dark | Lost one leg of 240V or control issue | Confirm both breaker poles are on; then check control wiring |
| Display died after install/move | Loose or burned connection | Inspect the range terminal block WPW10245259 for heat damage |
| Display flickers or cuts out | Loose connection or failing control | Reseat harness plugs; look for pinched wires |
- Turn OFF the 2-pole breaker before pulling the range out.
- Inspect the cord and rear connection area for discoloration, melted insulation, or a burnt smell.
- If you see heat damage, replace the terminal block and repair any damaged wiring.
- If wiring looks good, check that harness connectors to the console/control are fully seated.
A dead display can be a simple breaker or connection issue, but an overheated power connection can damage wiring and the control. Correcting the power problem first prevents repeat failures.
Last updated: February 2026




