Kenmore 897.75525320 front door bottom mount refrigerator Parts

You typically cannot read the exact cubic-foot capacity directly from the Kenmore model number alone. For Kenmore model 897 (front door bottom mount refrigerator), the most reliable way is to look up the listed capacity in the product specifications in the 897 owner's manual or calculate it from the interior measurements.

Option 1: Find capacity in the specs (fastest)

Check the model and serial label inside the fresh food compartment, then match it to the specifications section in the 897 owner's manual. This gives the manufacturer-stated total capacity (refrigerator plus freezer).

What to look for in the specs:

• Total capacity (cu. ft.)
• Refrigerator compartment capacity
• Freezer compartment capacity
• Exterior dimensions (helpful for confirming you have the right model)

Option 2: Calculate cubic feet from interior measurements

If you cannot find the spec listing, you can estimate capacity by measuring the usable interior space.

Steps:

• Empty the compartment you are measuring.
• Measure width x depth x height (in inches) of the usable interior.
• Multiply the three numbers to get cubic inches.
• Divide by 1,728 to convert cubic inches to cubic feet.

Quick conversion table

Measurement result	Convert to capacity
Cubic inches	Divide by 1,728
Cubic feet	Multiply by 1,728

Option 3: Use typical capacity ranges (sanity check)

Bottom-mount refrigerators commonly fall into these ranges; use this only as a rough check after you confirm the exact model.

• Compact bottom-mount: ~18 to 20 cu. ft.
• Mid-size bottom-mount: ~20 to 24 cu. ft.
• Large bottom-mount: ~24 to 28 cu. ft.

Why it matters

Cubic-foot capacity helps you compare refrigerators accurately and can affect which shelves, drawers, and door bins fit correctly when you order replacement parts for your Kenmore refrigerator.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common Kenmore refrigerator issues are cooling problems, ice maker or dispenser failures, water dispensing problems, excessive noise, and defrost-related frost buildup. On Kenmore model 897 bottom-mount refrigerators, these symptoms usually trace back to airflow, temperature sensing, door sealing, or the sealed system.

Most common symptoms (and what they usually mean)

• Not cooling or warm fridge section: restricted airflow, damper not opening, dirty condenser area, or a sealed system issue
• Frost buildup or not defrosting: defrost sensor or defrost control problem, blocked air return, door left ajar
• Ice maker not making ice: freezer too warm, ice path blocked, or ice storage/bin issues
• Water dispenser weak or not working: supply issue, frozen line, or internal water routing problem
• Noisy operation: condenser fan area, compressor load, or vibration from panels and brackets

Quick checks we recommend first

1. Confirm temps: 0°F in the freezer and 37°F in the fresh food section.
2. Make sure vents are not blocked by food packages (especially in the freezer).
3. Inspect door gaskets for gaps, tears, or areas not sealing.
4. Clean dust from the condenser area (unplug first).
5. Review the troubleshooting and temperature control details in the 897 owner's manual.

Parts that commonly relate to these problems (model 897)

Symptom	Common area to inspect	Example part for model 897
Fridge warm, freezer OK	Air damper and ducting	Refrigerator electric damper DA000943001
Frost buildup, temp swings	Defrost sensing	Refrigerator fridge and defrost sensor DA000547301
Moisture, warm spots, long run time	Door sealing	Refrigerator fridge door seal GA000077801

Why it matters

Catching airflow and sealing problems early helps your Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator hold stable temperatures, reduces compressor run time, and prevents frost buildup that can block vents and make cooling complaints worse.

When to move from “checks” to “repair”

• Freezer cannot reach 0°F after 24 hours of normal use
• Frost returns quickly after a full manual defrost
• Doors do not seal even after cleaning and leveling
• Noise is new, persistent, and coming from the rear lower area

Last updated: February 2026

Water leaking underneath a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 897 is usually caused by a blocked defrost drain that overflows into the cabinet base, or a drain pan issue underneath. We recommend checking the defrost drain first, then inspecting the water pan for cracks or misalignment using the 897 owner's manual.

Most common causes (and what to check)

• Clogged or frozen defrost drain: Meltwater cannot flow to the pan, so it spills inside and runs to the floor.
• Drain pan shifted, cracked, or overflowing: Water reaches the pan but does not stay contained.
• Door not sealing well: Excess moisture creates more frost and more defrost water.
• Ice maker or water line seepage (if equipped): Slow leaks can track to the front and drip underneath.
• Leveling issue: If the cabinet tilts forward, water can run out instead of into the pan.

Quick troubleshooting steps

1. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the lower freezer drawer if needed for access.
2. Look for ice or debris at the drain opening (typically at the back of the fresh food section or near the evaporator drain path).
3. Flush the drain with warm water (a turkey baster works well) until it flows freely.
4. Inspect the drain pan for cracks and proper placement; replace it if damaged.
5. Check door gaskets for gaps, tears, or areas not gripping the cabinet.

Parts that commonly relate to leaks

Symptom	Likely area	Example part for model 897
Water under fridge after defrost	Drain pan area	Water pan GK000008302
Condensation, frost, then leaking	Door seal	Fridge door seal GA000077801
Water pooling near freezer drawer	Drawer seal	Drawer door seal assembly GA000042901

Why it matters

A recurring leak can damage flooring and also points to airflow or defrost drainage problems that can lead to ice buildup and warmer temperatures in the refrigerator or freezer.

Last updated: February 2026

For this Sears PartsDirect page, the Kenmore refrigerator model is 897 (a front door bottom-mount refrigerator). To confirm the exact model on your appliance, match the full model number from the rating label inside the fresh food compartment to what’s shown in the 897 owner’s manual.

Where to find the model number label

On most Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerators, we see the model/serial label in one of these spots:

• Inside the fresh food section on a side wall
• On the ceiling of the fresh food section
• Behind or near the crisper drawers
• On the door frame when you open the refrigerator door
• Behind the lower kick plate (toe grille)

How to match the label to the right parts

Use the model number exactly as printed (including any dots, dashes, or extra digits). That full number is what we use to match diagrams and parts like the damper, sensors, door seals, and compressor.

What you see	What to do	Why it matters
Short number like 897	Treat it as the model family identifier	Helps narrow to the correct product line
Longer model string (may include more digits)	Use the full string for parts lookup	Prevents ordering the wrong part
Serial number	Record it separately	Useful for production variations

Why it matters

Kenmore model numbers are the key to getting the right refrigerator parts the first time. Even small differences in a bottom-mount refrigerator (door style, ice maker setup, or temperature control design) can change which gasket, sensor, or air damper fits.

If you’re troubleshooting while you identify the model

These quick checks often help while you’re locating the label:

• If the fresh food section is warm but the freezer is cold, the air damper may be sticking (see Kenmore refrigerator electric damper DA000943001).
• If temperatures swing or you see frost issues, a sensor problem is common (see Kenmore refrigerator fridge and defrost sensor DA000547301).
• If doors do not seal tightly, inspect the gasket for gaps or tears.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore refrigerator model 897 is warm at the bottom, the most common causes are restricted airflow (blocked vents or an iced-up return path), a damper that is stuck closed, or a defrost/temperature sensing issue that prevents cold air from circulating into the fresh food section.

Quick checks we recommend first

• Make sure packages are not pressed against interior air vents in the refrigerator section.
• Confirm the freezer is cold; weak freezer cooling usually points to a sealed-system or compressor issue.
• Look for frost buildup on the freezer back panel (a clue of a defrost problem).
• Verify the refrigerator temperature setting was not accidentally raised.
• Clean dust from the condenser area (unplug first); poor heat release reduces overall cooling.

Airflow problems that make the bottom warm

Bottom-mount designs rely on a steady flow of cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment. If that airflow is restricted, the lower area often warms up first.

What you notice	Likely cause	What to do
Top shelves cool, bottom warm	Air return blocked by food bins or packaging	Clear vents and leave space around vent openings
Frost on freezer rear panel	Defrost system not clearing ice	Check defrost sensor and airflow paths
Little to no airflow from vents	Damper not opening	Inspect damper operation and linkage

Parts that commonly affect bottom cooling on model 897

If the basic airflow checks do not fix it, these model-specific parts are common suspects:

• Kenmore refrigerator electric damper DA000943001: Controls how much freezer air enters the refrigerator section.
• Kenmore refrigerator fridge and defrost sensor DA000547301: Helps the control system manage defrost and temperature; a bad sensor can lead to icing or poor cooling.

Why it matters

When the bottom stays warm, food safety and freshness are affected first (milk, meat, produce drawers). Fixing airflow early also prevents heavier frost buildup that can strain the compressor and fans.

Reference settings (typical targets)

• Refrigerator: 37°F to 40°F
• Freezer: 0°F

For vent locations, temperature adjustment steps, and compartment airflow details, use the 897 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

Kenmore replacement parts are made by multiple OEM manufacturers, not a single company. For Kenmore model 897 (bottom-mount refrigerator), the correct replacement part is the one that matches your model’s parts list and specifications in the 897 owner’s manual, regardless of which OEM produced it.

What this means when you’re shopping for parts

Kenmore is a brand name used across appliances built by different manufacturers over the years. The practical rule is simple: match the model number and the part identifier.

• Use the full Kenmore model number 897 to narrow the correct parts catalog.
• Match the exact part ID/part number listed for your refrigerator.
• Expect packaging or labeling to show an OEM name even when the part is sold for Kenmore.
• Avoid “looks the same” substitutions for electrical and sealed-system parts.
• When in doubt, compare the old part’s markings to the replacement listing.

Examples of OEM-style parts for Kenmore model 897

These are model-matched parts that can be supplied by an OEM manufacturer while still being the correct Kenmore replacement.

Part type	Example part for model 897	What it does
Airflow control	Refrigerator electric damper DA000943001	Regulates cold air flow into the fresh food section
Temperature/defrost sensing	Refrigerator fridge and defrost sensor DA000547301	Helps control cooling and defrost operation
Door sealing	Refrigerator fridge door seal GA000077801	Helps prevent warm air leaks and frost buildup

How to make sure you get the right part

• Confirm the appliance ID tag shows 897.
• Use the exploded view and parts list to verify the exact part ID.
• Check for left/right orientation on cosmetic and hinge parts.
• For cooling complaints, verify symptoms before replacing parts (damper, sensor, seals).

Why it matters

Kenmore sourcing varies by model and production run, so “who makes it” is less important than “does it match model 897 exactly.” Correct matching prevents fit issues, wiring mismatches, and repeat failures.

Last updated: February 2026

A bad compressor on a Kenmore bottom-mount refrigerator like model 897 usually shows up as poor cooling with the compressor running constantly, loud clicking or buzzing, or the unit repeatedly trying to start and shutting off. Confirm basics first using the 897 owner's manual before replacing major parts.

Quick signs the compressor is failing

• Refrigerator and freezer temperatures stay warm even after 24 hours of running
• Compressor runs almost nonstop with little or no cooling improvement
• Repeated clicking every few minutes (start attempt, then shutoff)
• Loud humming, buzzing, or rattling from the compressor area
• Compressor shell is very hot to the touch (use caution)
• Breaker trips or overload behavior happens when the compressor tries to start

Rule out common look-alikes first

Many “bad compressor” symptoms are caused by airflow, defrost, or control issues.

• Condenser airflow problem: dirty condenser coils or a stalled condenser fan can cause long run times and warm temps
• Evaporator frost/defrost issue: heavy frost on the freezer back wall points to a defrost problem; on this model, a failed fridge and defrost sensor DA000547301 can contribute to defrost and temperature control issues
• Air damper stuck: if the freezer is cold but the fresh food section is warm, the electric damper DA000943001 may be stuck closed or not responding
• Door seal leaks: warm air leaks can mimic weak cooling; inspect the fridge door seal GA000077801 for gaps, tears, or a loose fit

What to check (in order)

1. Set controls to normal and confirm doors fully close.
2. Listen at the back: does the compressor run steadily, or click on and off?
3. Check for strong airflow at the condenser area and inside vents.
4. Look for heavy frost buildup in the freezer.
5. If you have a meter, follow the wiring and test approach in how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Symptom-to-likely-cause guide

What you notice	More likely cause	Compressor likely?
Freezer cold, fridge warm	Damper/airflow issue	Low
Heavy frost on freezer panel	Defrost system issue	Low
Clicks every few minutes, won’t stay running	Start/overload or compressor	Medium
Runs constantly, both sections warm	Sealed system or compressor	High

Why it matters

A compressor replacement is one of the highest-effort refrigerator repairs. Checking the damper, sensor, airflow, and door seals first prevents unnecessary parts replacement and gets cooling restored faster.

Last updated: February 2026