Whirlpool WRF560SMHZ03 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

For the Whirlpool WRF560SMHZ03 bottom-mount refrigerator, we leave the cardboard-like panel on the bottom or rear base in place. That panel is a protective cover and airflow guide for the condenser area; removing it can reduce cooling performance and expose components.

What that “cardboard” piece does

On many Whirlpool refrigerators, the fiberboard panel is designed to:

• Direct airflow across the condenser coils
• Protect wiring and moving parts near the compressor
• Reduce dust buildup in critical areas
• Help keep the unit operating efficiently

When you should remove it (rare)

Only remove a bottom/rear cover temporarily when you are doing a specific maintenance task, then reinstall it.

Common examples:

• Cleaning dust from the condenser area
• Inspecting for a water leak or drain pan overflow
• Checking the condenser fan (if your design has one)

If the panel is torn, warped, or won’t fasten securely, replace it with the correct cover for your model.

Quick check: shipping material vs. installed panel

What you see	Typical location	What to do
Loose cardboard, tape, foam blocks	Around doors, shelves, drawers	Remove and discard
Fastened fiberboard panel (screws/clips)	Rear lower section or bottom base	Leave installed
Thin plastic film	On stainless doors/trim	Peel off

Why it matters

That cover helps your WRF560SMHZ03 move heat out of the sealed system efficiently. If airflow is disrupted, the compressor can run longer, temperatures can drift, and energy use can increase.

For step-by-step help with condenser-area airflow and cooling symptoms, use our guide: how to fix your evaporator cooling fan.

Last updated: February 2026

Ice on the freezer floor in your Whirlpool WRF560SMHZ03 happens when defrost meltwater cannot drain to the pan and refreezes into a sheet. Clearing the defrost drain and making sure the freezer door seals tightly stops the repeat freeze cycle.

Fix it fast (most common solution)

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Remove the freezer drawer/basket so you can access the freezer floor.
• Melt the ice with towels and a shallow pan of hot water (or a hair dryer on low, kept moving).
• Locate the drain opening at the back of the freezer floor or behind the rear panel.
• Flush the drain with hot water until it flows freely to the drain pan underneath.
• Clean the drain trough so food particles and ice chips do not re-clog it.

Check these common causes

• Clogged defrost drain: Water backs up and freezes on the floor.
• Door not sealing: Humid air leaks in, creating extra frost and more meltwater.
• Drawer not closing fully: Baskets or packages can prevent a full seal.
• Blocked airflow: Overpacking can block vents and increase frost.

Parts to consider if sealing or “door open” issues are involved

What you notice	What to check	Part that fits this model
Moisture or frost around the door edge	Door gasket condition and fit	Refrigerator gasket panel WPW10460580
Light seems to stay on, or door alarm behavior	Door switch operation	Refrigerator door switch W11396033

Why it matters

A recurring ice sheet can keep the drawer from closing, restrict airflow, and cause longer run times. Fixing the drain and sealing issues prevents repeat ice buildup and helps maintain stable freezer temperatures.

Step-by-step help

Use our guide: how to get rid of refrigerator puddles. The same drain-clearing steps apply to freezer-floor ice.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common Whirlpool refrigerator problem is a cooling issue caused by airflow or defrost trouble, such as frost buildup on the evaporator that blocks cold air from circulating. On a Whirlpool WRF560SMHZ03 bottom-mount refrigerator, start by checking for heavy frost, warm temps, and fan noise changes. See our Whirlpool refrigerator error codes for quick symptom clues.

Most common symptoms you will notice

• Fresh food section warm but freezer seems closer to normal
• Frost or ice buildup on the back wall inside the freezer
• Refrigerator runs a lot, or temperatures swing
• Weak airflow from vents, or vents blocked by ice
• Unusual buzzing or clicking, especially near the compressor area

Quick checks we recommend (in order)

1. Confirm temperatures: Set refrigerator to about 37°F and freezer to about 0°F; wait 24 hours.
2. Listen for the evaporator fan: When the doors are closed, you should typically hear a steady fan sound.
3. Look for frost patterns: Heavy, snowy frost often points to a defrost system issue.
4. Clean airflow paths: Make sure vents are not blocked by food packages.
5. Check door sealing: A poor seal can drive moisture in and create frost.

Parts that commonly relate to cooling and defrost symptoms

If your checks point to airflow, temperature sensing, or defrost-related behavior, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

Symptom	Commonly involved part	What it affects
Warm fridge, weak airflow	Refrigerator evaporator motor WPW10464673	Moves cold air from the evaporator into the compartments
Temps swing, odd readings	Refrigerator thermistor W11724692	Senses temperature so the control can regulate cooling
Clicking, hard starts	Refrigerator capacitor WPW10662129	Helps the compressor start and run efficiently

Why it matters

Cooling and defrost problems usually get worse over time. Frost buildup and restricted airflow can make the compressor run longer, raise energy use, and lead to food spoilage. Catching the symptom early helps you avoid bigger repairs.

Last updated: February 2026