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Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 bottom-mount refrigerator, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 bottom-mount refrigerator
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  • Refrigerator Ice Room Door Bin for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part W10887799

    Refrigerator door parts diagram

    Trivet,ice-d

    Part #W10795606

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  • Refrigerator Switch for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part W11087492

    Dispenser front parts diagram

    Refrigerator Limit Switch

    Part #W10403752

    Replaced by #W11087492

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  • Refrigerator Water Filter Cover Clip for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part WP2223877

    Shelf parts diagram

    Latch

    Part #2223877

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  • Refrigerator Refrigerant Solenoid for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part W11429989

    Unit parts diagram

    Refrigerator Valve Coil

    Part #W10709318

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  • Shaft for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part W11228132

    Icemaker and ice container parts diagram

    Shaft Motor

    Part #W10678163

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  • Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part 876370

    Optional parts diagram

    Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece

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  • Sears Refrigerator Service Valve for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part 876764

    Unit parts diagram

    Sears Refrigerator Service Valve

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  • Sears Refrigerator Service Valve for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part 978026

    Unit parts diagram

    Sears Refrigerator Service Valve

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  • Refrigerator Screw for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part WP8281163

    Icemaker and ice container parts diagram

    Refrigerator Screw

    Part #8281163

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  • Refrigerator Door Insulation, 2-piece for Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 - Part 876370

    Optional parts diagram

    Insulation

    Part #978941

    Replaced by #876370

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Jenn-Air Bottom-Mount Refrigerator JFFCC72EFS03 FAQs

Water leaking from the bottom of your Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 bottom-mount refrigerator is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain, a mispositioned or overflowing drain pan, or a water supply leak from the ice maker or dispenser line. Start by identifying whether the water is clear (supply/defrost) or oily/dusty (drain pan).

Quick checks we recommend first

  • Pull the refrigerator slightly forward and look for water at the back near the water inlet line.
  • Check the freezer floor for a thin sheet of ice; that often points to a blocked defrost drain.
  • Inspect door seals for gaps, rips, or areas not sealing flat.
  • If you have a dispenser, dispense water and watch for drips under the door area.
  • If you have an ice maker, check the fill tube area for ice buildup or dripping.

Most common causes and what to do

What you notice Most likely cause What to do next
Water appears after defrost cycles; ice on freezer floor Defrost drain clogged or frozen Clear the drain opening; flush with hot water (turkey baster works well)
Water only when using dispenser or making ice Water line fitting or valve seep Inspect tubing connections; tighten fittings; replace damaged tubing
Water at front corners; more frost inside Door not sealing Clean gasket and mating surface; warm and reshape gasket if warped
Oily/dusty water under unit Drain pan overflow or shifted Re-seat the drain pan; clean it; confirm it is centered under the drain outlet

Parts that commonly relate to bottom leaks on this model

If you find a sealing issue, the door gasket is a frequent fix on bottom-mount refrigerators.

Why it matters

Bottom leaks can lead to floor damage and can also signal airflow or defrost-drain problems that eventually cause warm temperatures, ice buildup, and poor ice maker performance.

Last updated: January 2026

No. Refrigerators are not all 70 inches high; height varies by style and capacity. For a bottom-mount refrigerator like model JFFCC72EFS03, many units land near the upper-60s to low-70s inches, but you should always measure your opening and the refrigerator.

Typical refrigerator height ranges (what we see most often)

  • Compact and apartment-size: about 32 to 67 inches
  • Top-freezer: about 60 to 67 inches
  • Bottom-mount and French door: about 67 to 72 inches
  • Built-in and specialty models: often 80 inches or taller

How to measure your space correctly

  • Measure the opening height in at least 3 spots (left, center, right) and use the smallest number.
  • Leave clearance for door swing and hinges; the hinge area can be the tallest point.
  • Plan for airflow space above and behind the cabinet (tight installs can reduce cooling performance).
  • Confirm flooring changes (new tile, mats) that can reduce usable height.

Quick comparison: “70-inch opening” vs “70-inch refrigerator”

What you see What it usually means What to do
“Fits a 70-inch opening” The refrigerator is slightly shorter than 70 inches Measure opening and compare to product height
“70 inches tall” The cabinet height is near 70 inches (hinges may add more) Check the tallest point including hinges
“Counter-depth” Depth changes more than height Still measure height and hinge clearance

Why it matters

If the refrigerator is even 1/4 inch too tall, it can bind against cabinets, prevent leveling, or force the doors to sit unevenly, which can lead to warm spots, frost, or moisture.

If doors do not close cleanly after an install, these parts are commonly involved:

Last updated: January 2026

Common problems we see on the Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 bottom-mount refrigerator include weak cooling (freezer cold but fresh food warm), ice maker or dispenser issues, water leaks, and unusual noises. Most of these trace back to airflow restrictions, dirty condenser coils, door sealing problems, or a failing fan or control.

Most common symptoms and what they usually mean

  • Fridge warm, freezer OK: blocked air vents, frost buildup on the evaporator cover, or a weak fan moving cold air
  • No ice or slow ice: ice maker not cycling, icebox airflow issue, or dispenser drive problem
  • Water under the fridge or in drawers: clogged defrost drain, loose water line, or filter housing leak
  • Buzzing, rattling, or clicking: fan blade hitting ice, loose panels, or a struggling motor
  • Lights out or flickering: failed LED module or door switch issue

Parts that commonly solve these problems

If troubleshooting points to a failed component, these model-matched parts are common fixes:

Problem area What to check Example model-matched part
Odors and stale air Replace the air filter on schedule Refrigerator air filter W10311524
Ice box not cooling well Verify the icebox fan runs and vents are clear Assembly, icebox fan W11407678
Dispenser not dispensing Listen for motor operation during dispense Dispenser motor W10822606
Frost buildup, poor airflow Defrost system performance Defrost heater W11291124
Interior lights not working LED module operation Refrigerator led light W11683243

Quick checks we recommend before replacing parts

  • Confirm temperature settings and allow 24 hours after changes
  • Clean condenser coils and ensure good airflow around the cabinet
  • Make sure food packages are not blocking interior air vents
  • Inspect door gaskets for gaps, tears, or areas not sealing
  • If the unit is noisy, check for ice contacting a fan shroud or blade

Why it matters

Cooling, ice production, and leak issues often start as simple airflow or maintenance problems; fixing those early helps protect the compressor, prevents ice buildup, and keeps temperatures stable for food safety.

Last updated: January 2026

Yes. On the Jenn-Air JFFCC72EFS03 bottom-mount refrigerator, unplugging the unit (a power cycle) commonly resets the ice maker control and clears minor glitches that stop ice production. Leave it unplugged for about 5 minutes, then restore power and allow time for ice to restart.

How to power-cycle the ice maker safely

  • Unplug the refrigerator or switch the circuit breaker off.
  • Wait 5 minutes (up to 10 minutes is fine).
  • Restore power.
  • Confirm the ice maker is turned on (not in “off” mode).
  • Wait for the freezer to return to normal temperature; ice production can take several hours.

Quick checks if it still will not make ice

  • Make sure the freezer is cold enough; most ice makers need about 0°F to 10°F to cycle normally.
  • Check that the ice bin is seated correctly and not overfilled or jammed.
  • Verify the water supply valve is fully open and the water line is not kinked.
  • Replace the water filter if flow is weak or the filter is overdue; a restricted filter can slow or stop filling.
  • Look for frost buildup or poor airflow that can affect the ice maker compartment.

Common “reset” methods compared

Method What it does When to use it
Unplug for 5 to 10 minutes Reboots the control electronics Ice maker stopped after a power glitch or random no-ice issue
Turn ice maker off, then on Forces a fresh start state Ice maker accidentally switched off
Replace water filter Restores water flow to the ice maker Small cubes, hollow cubes, slow fill, no fill

Why it matters

A simple power cycle often fixes control lockups without replacing parts. If the issue is water-flow related, addressing the filter or supply prevents repeat failures and helps the ice maker cycle consistently.

If you suspect a failed ice maker component (motor, fan, or control), match parts to your model and symptoms; for example, a weak ice compartment airflow issue can involve the assembly, icebox fan W11407678, and water-flow issues often improve after replacing the refrigerator cartridge wrap assembly EDR2RXD1.

Last updated: January 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your refrigerators

Choose a symptom to see related refrigerator repairs.

Main causes: leaky door gasket, defrost system failure, evaporator fan not running, dirty condenser coils, condenser fan…

Main causes: control board or cold control failure, broken compressor start relay, compressor motor failure, defrost tim…

Main causes: blocked vents, defrost system problems, evaporator fan failure, dirty condenser coils, bad sensors, condens…

Main causes: blocked air vents, compressor problems, condenser or evaporator fan not working, control system failure, se…

Main causes: water valve leaking, frozen or broken defrost drain tube, overflowing drain pan, cracked water system tubin…

Main causes: damaged door seal, faulty defrost sensor or bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, bad defrost timer o…

Things to do: clean condenser coils, replace the water filter, clean the interior, adjust doors to prevent air leaks, cl…

Main causes: jammed ice cubes, broken ice maker assembly, dirty water filter, kinked water line, bad water valve, freeze…

Most common repair guides to help fix your refrigerators

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your refrigerator.

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

How to replace a refrigerator temperature control board

If the temperature in your refrigerator doesn't match the temperature you set, the problem could be the temperature cont…

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How to replace a refrigerator water valve

Replace the water valve that feeds water to the ice maker and water dispenser if it no longer controls the flow of water…

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 15 minutes or less
How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

How to clean refrigerator condenser coils

Help your refrigerator run more efficiently by cleaning the condenser coils. It's easy and takes just a few minutes.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your refrigerator.

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