Whirlpool WDTA50SAKZ1 dishwasher Parts

On your Whirlpool dishwasher model WDTA50SAKZ1, the most reliable identifier is the model and serial tag, not a part number. We use that tag’s model number to match the correct replacement parts because many internal parts look similar but vary by revision.

Where to look for the model and serial tag

Check these common locations on Whirlpool dishwashers:

• Along the top or side edge of the door (visible when you open the door)
• On the inner door frame near the latch area
• On the tub rim (the frame around the opening)
• Occasionally on the side of the cabinet (more visible if the unit is pulled out)

Write down the model number exactly as shown (for this unit: WDTA50SAKZ1) and keep the serial number handy for date and revision matching.

How to use that info to get the right part

Once you have the model number, match parts by part name + part ID. For example, if you need a door latch, use the exact listing such as the latch assembly (includes switch) W11412299.

Quick ID checklist

• Confirm the model number matches: WDTA50SAKZ1
• Match the part name to what you’re replacing
• Match the part ID (example: W11412299)
• Compare the old part’s markings (if readable) to the listing
• If the issue is a symptom (won’t start, won’t drain), diagnose first before ordering

Common “part number” vs “model number” confusion

What you’re looking at	What it identifies	Where it’s found
Model number (WDTA50SAKZ1)	The dishwasher	Rating tag on the door/tub frame
Part ID (example: W11412299)	A specific replacement part listing	Parts listing for the model
Manufacturer part number (example: W11091934)	The OEM number for that part	Often on the part or in parts listing

Why it matters

Using the model tag prevents ordering a look-alike part that does not fit your rack, latch, fill system, or control setup. That saves time and avoids return hassles.

Last updated: February 2026

Replacing the drain pump on a Whirlpool dishwasher like model WDTA50SAKZ1 typically costs $150 to $400 total (parts plus labor). If the issue is a clog or a simple drain-path fix instead of a failed pump, the repair is often $50 to $150.

What drives the total cost

• Service call and labor time (accessing the pump usually requires pulling the dishwasher out)
• Whether it is a true pump failure or a blockage in the drain hose, air gap, or disposer inlet
• Extra parts needed (hose, clamps, seals)
• Water damage cleanup if a leak is found during diagnosis

Quick checks before you buy a pump

These steps often solve “not draining” without replacing parts:

• Cancel and drain the cycle; listen for the drain motor sound.
• Check the sink/disposer connection for a knockout plug (new disposer installs are a common cause).
• Inspect for kinks or clogs in the drain line.
• Clean the filter area and remove standing water, then retry a drain.
• If the dishwasher has power but will not run a drain, try a reset sequence.

For step-by-step help, use our guides: dishwasher not draining video and how to reset a Whirlpool dishwasher.

Common parts that affect draining on WDTA50SAKZ1

If you confirm the drain path is clear, these model-matched parts are often involved:

Symptom	Most likely area	Example model-matched part
Hums but drains slowly	Restricted drain path	Hose-drain,e W11414944
Won’t drain and leaves water	Pump or control issue	(Pump not listed in the parts shown)
Fills but then stops with water left	Fill and wash issues can mimic drain problems	Fill valve assembly W11434044

Why it matters

A dishwasher that cannot drain can trigger error codes, leave dirty water in the tub, and strain the pump and motor system. Verifying the drain hose and connection first prevents paying for an unnecessary pump replacement.

Last updated: February 2026

The most common Whirlpool dishwasher problem is a drain issue: water stays in the bottom because the filter area, drain path, or drain pump system is restricted. On Whirlpool WDTA50SAKZ1, we also frequently see “not cleaning well” complaints tied to low fill, spray arm blockage, or a weak wash pump.

Most common symptoms and what they usually mean

• Standing water after the cycle: clogged filter/sump area, kinked drain hose, or a drain pump problem
• Dishes still dirty: blocked spray arms, overloading, low water fill, or wash pump performance issues
• Leaks at the door: worn tub or door seals
• Won’t start or stops mid-cycle: door latch not sensing closed, control issue, or a stuck key
• Poor drying: rinse aid empty, plastic-heavy loads, or cycle selection

Quick checks we recommend first (fast, no parts)

1. Cancel and drain; then check for water movement into the sink/disposer.
2. Inspect the drain hose routing for kinks and a proper high loop/air gap.
3. Clean the filter area and remove debris from the sump.
4. Spin and rinse the spray arms; clear any plugged jets.
5. Run hot water at the sink before starting to improve wash temperature.

Parts that commonly solve these problems on WDTA50SAKZ1

If the basic checks do not fix it, these model-matched parts are common next steps:

Symptom	Likely part area	Model-matched example
Not filling or fills slowly	Water inlet / valve	Fill valve assembly W11434044
Not draining or drains poorly	Drain path / hose	Hose-drain,e W11414944
Leaking at the bottom of the door	Door bottom seal	Seal, door bottom W11664713
Leaking around the tub opening	Tub gasket	Gasket-tub,d W11483553
Won’t start, door won’t “click” shut	Door latch/switch	Latch assembly (includes switch) W11412299

Why it matters

Drain and fill problems can cascade: low water fill reduces cleaning, and poor draining can leave dirty water to redeposit soil. Fixing the root cause protects the wash motor, improves cycle results, and prevents odor buildup.

Helpful troubleshooting resources

• Whirlpool dishwasher error codes
• How to reset a Whirlpool dishwasher
• Dishwasher not draining video

Last updated: February 2026

On the Whirlpool WDTA50SAKZ1 dishwasher, the F6 E1 error code points to a water fill or water level detection problem. In most cases, the control is not seeing the expected water level change during filling, so it pauses or stops the cycle to prevent poor washing or overflow.

What usually causes F6 E1

Common causes we see on Whirlpool dishwashers include:

• Water supply valve under the sink is partially closed
• Kinked supply line or low household water pressure
• Inlet screen at the valve clogged with debris
• Fill system issue (inlet valve not opening consistently)
• Drain issue that siphons water out while filling (high loop/air gap problem)
• Control not getting the right “water present” signal (sensor or wiring related)

Quick checks you can do first

Start with the simplest items before replacing parts:

• Confirm the shutoff valve is fully open.
• Make sure the dishwasher is getting hot water at the sink first (run hot water 30 to 60 seconds).
• Check the supply line for kinks or crushing.
• Verify the drain hose has a proper high loop and is not pushed too far down the disposal or drain.
• Power reset: turn off the breaker for 1 minute, then restore power and try a cycle.

For model-specific code behavior and reset steps, use our how to reset a Whirlpool dishwasher guide.

Parts that commonly fix a fill or level error

If the basic checks do not help, these parts are common suspects on fill-related faults:

Symptom	Most likely area	Part to consider (if applicable)
No water entering at all	Fill valve not opening	Fill valve assembly W11434044
Slow fill or intermittent fill	Restricted inlet or weak valve	Water inlet W11535094
Stops mid-fill and won’t continue	Fill/level detection circuit	Professional diagnosis recommended

Why it matters

A dishwasher that cannot confirm proper fill level will not wash correctly and may stop to protect the pump and heater. Fixing the water supply or fill components restores normal cycle operation and helps prevent repeat error codes.

Last updated: February 2026