DCS Freestanding ice maker Parts — Browse All Models

Common replacement parts for DCS freestanding ice makers

• Electronic control board. The electronic control board is a circuit board that controls the electrical components of the ice maker such as the compressor, cutting grid, recirculation pump and drain pump. The electronic control board receives a signal from the thermistor in the ice storage bin that indicates how much ice is in the storage bin. When the level of ice is low, the electronic control board starts the process of making ice.
• Compressor start relay. The compressor start relay is attached to the motor voltage supply in the compressor. It applies voltage to the start-and-run windings of the compressor motor when voltage is first applied through that circuit. After the compressor starts, the relay stops voltage to the start relay so that the compressor runs using only the run windings.
• Recirculation pump. The recirculation pump continuously picks up water from the water reservoir and circulates the water over the evaporator plate to form a slab of ice during the ice-making process. When the slab of ice is thick enough to be cut into cubes, the recirculation pump stops, and the slab slides onto the wire cutting grid. Then the recirculation pump resumes operation to form a new slab of ice.
• Cutter grid. The wire cutter grid is a square frame with wires arranged in a grid inside the frame. When a slab of ice falls onto the grid from the evaporator plate, the cutting grid’s wires heat up and cut the slab into square cubes.

• Troubleshooting your DCS freestanding ice maker when it runs but makes no ice

  When the ice maker runs but doesn't make any ice, a bad electronic control board, failed water supply, broken recirculation pump, sealed system failure or broken cutting grid could be causing the problem.

  A faulty electronic control board can prevent the ice maker from making any ice. A power surge through the electrical supply line to the ice maker can lock up the control board, so reset the control board by unplugging the ice maker for one minute, then restoring electrical power.

  If the ice maker doesn't start making ice, check the evaporator plate. If the evaporator plate is dry and the water reservoir is full, then the recirculation pump is likely bad. If the reservoir is empty, check the water supply going to the ice maker. To check the water supply, unplug the ice maker and shut off the water supply cut-off valve. Disconnect the water supply line from the ice maker and place the end of the water supply line in a container. Briefly open the water supply cut-off valve and check for water flow from the end of the water supply line. If no water flows through the end of the supply line, have a plumber fix the water supply going to the ice maker. If water does flow through the supply line, you'll likely need to replace the water inlet valve because it's not opening to allow water to flow into the reservoir.

  If the water reservoir and is full and water flows over the evaporator plate but doesn't freeze, then a failed condenser fan, bad compressor or lack of refrigerant could be preventing the evaporator plate from getting cold and freezing the water. Replace the condenser fan if it doesn't run when activated. If the condenser fan runs, you'll need to have a service technician diagnose and repair the sealed system, which includes the compressor and connecting tubes that carry refrigerant. The sealed system should only be repaired by a service technician because the repair involves the recovery and recharge of refrigerant, which is tightly regulated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

  If water freezes on the evaporator plate but the slab of ice sticks on top of the cutting grid and doesn't get cut into cubes and drop down into the bin, then you may need to replace the cutting grid if its grid wires don't heat up when activated.