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Craftsman 351214600 band saw

Craftsman 351214600 band saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 351214600 band saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 351214600 Power Tools

  • Set Screw for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 00351.00

    Frame diagram

    Set Screw

    Part #00351.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Cord Clamp for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20829.00

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    Cord Clamp

    Part #20829.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Shaft for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20834.00

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    Shaft

    Part #20834.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Wheel Band for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20805.00

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    Wheel Band

    Part #20805.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Plate for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20817.00

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    Plate

    Part #20817.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Roll Pin for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 02783.00

    Base diagram

    Roll Pin

    Part #02783.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Wheel Band for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20807.00

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    Wheel Band

    Part #20807.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Bag Clamp for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20777.00

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    Bag Clamp

    Part #20777.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Rack for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 20812.00

    Frame diagram

    Rack

    Part #20812.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Power Tool Power Switch for Craftsman 351214600 - Part 16080.00

    Frame diagram

    Power Tool Power Switch

    Part #16080.00

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman Band Saw 351214600 FAQs

The 3-tooth rule means your Craftsman band saw model 351214600 should use a blade pitch (TPI) that keeps at least three teeth in contact with the workpiece during the cut. This prevents blade shocking and tooth stripping, and it helps the blade cut smoother and last longer (see the owner's manual).

How to apply the 3-tooth rule (quick method)

  1. Measure the material thickness at the cut.
  2. Choose a blade TPI so that, at any moment, 3 or more teeth are engaged.
  3. If the blade chatters, strips teeth, or grabs, move to a finer pitch (more TPI).

Practical tips we use

  • Thin stock (sheet metal, thin wall tubing): use a finer pitch so 3 teeth can engage.
  • Thick stock (solid wood blocks, thick plastics): use a coarser pitch for faster chip clearing.
  • If you see “hammering” or harsh vibration at the start of the cut, the pitch is usually too coarse.
  • If the cut burns, loads up, or slows badly, the pitch can be too fine (gullets pack with debris).
  • Keep feed pressure steady; forcing the cut increases tooth damage.

Typical blade pitch guidance (what the manual emphasizes)

The manual explains that pitch is teeth per inch (TPI) and that the material type determines how many teeth should be in contact with the work. It also notes that blade shocking happens when pitch is too large and a tooth hits too much material at once.

Material and situation What to prioritize Common result if wrong
Soft materials Moderate pitch and good chip clearing Too fine: slow cutting, packed gullets
Hard materials More teeth engaged (finer pitch) Too coarse: shocking, stripped teeth
Any cut 3+ teeth engaged Fewer than 3: chatter and tooth breakage

Why it matters

Keeping at least three teeth engaged spreads cutting forces across multiple teeth. That reduces shock loads, improves tracking and cut quality, and helps protect the blade, guides, and wheels.

If your saw still struggles after choosing the right TPI, use our DIY symptom help for common causes like dull blades, guide adjustment, and feed rate: band saw cutting slowly.

Last updated: February 2026

For your Craftsman band saw model 351214600, the blade size is defined by length, width, and tooth pitch (TPI). The manual lists a blade length of 83-5/8 inches and a blade width range of 1/8 to 1/2 inch; you then choose the TPI based on the material and cut quality you want (see the owner's manual).

What to measure (and how)

  • Blade length: Use the model spec first (83-5/8 inches for 351214600). If you are measuring an existing blade, mark a starting point (often the weld), then follow the blade edge with a tape measure until you return to the mark.
  • Blade width: Measure from the tip of a tooth to the back edge of the blade.
  • TPI (teeth per inch): Count how many teeth fall in 1 inch; that number is the pitch.
  • Thickness (optional but helpful): Thicker blades are typically more rigid; thinner blades flex more easily for tighter curves.

Quick selection guide for width and TPI

Use this as a practical starting point, then fine-tune for your material and cut type.

What you are doing Typical blade width Typical TPI range What you will notice
Tight curves/contour cuts 1/8 to 1/4 inch 6 to 12 TPI Smaller turning radius, less straight-line rigidity
General purpose cutting 1/4 to 3/8 inch 6 to 10 TPI Balanced curve ability and straight tracking
Long straight cuts/resaw-style cuts 3/8 to 1/2 inch 3 to 6 TPI (wood) Straighter cuts, faster feed rate

Why it matters

Getting the blade size right prevents common problems like the blade wandering, cutting slowly, ragged cuts, and the blade slipping off the wheels. Correct blade size also makes guide and thrust bearing adjustments more stable, which improves accuracy and blade life.

Helpful tip before you buy or install a blade

  • Confirm the 83-5/8 inch length for this model.
  • Pick the widest blade that still allows the curve radius you need.
  • Choose a TPI that keeps at least 3 teeth in the cut to reduce tooth stripping and rough cutting.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, you can resaw on a 14-inch class band saw, but the practical resaw height is limited by the saw’s maximum depth of cut and how well the blade is tensioned, tracked, and guided. On the Craftsman 351214600, proper blade tension, tracking, and guide adjustment are required before operation; use the 351214600 owner's manual for the exact setup steps.

What determines resaw success

Resawing is mostly about blade control and feed technique, not just wheel size.

  • Use a sharp blade designed for resawing (typically a wider blade with fewer teeth per inch).
  • Set correct blade tension and confirm the blade tracks centered on the wheels.
  • Adjust blade guides and thrust bearings so the blade is supported without binding.
  • Use a tall, straight fence (or a resaw fence) to keep stock vertical.
  • Feed slowly and steadily; forcing the cut causes drift and heat.
  • Keep wheels clean to prevent poor tracking and blade slippage.

Setup checklist (Craftsman 351214600)

The manual notes the blade must be tensioned and tracked, and the blade guides adjusted before you operate the saw.

Setup item What “good” looks like What happens if it’s off
Blade tension Blade stays stable in the cut Wandering, flutter, drift
Blade tracking Blade runs consistently on wheels Blade walks, slips, or derails
Blade guides Close support without rubbing hard Crooked cuts, overheating
Wheel cleanliness No pitch or sawdust buildup Slippage, poor tracking

Why it matters

Resawing puts a long, continuous load on the blade and wheels. If tracking, guides, or wheel cleanliness are off, the blade drifts, cuts slowly, or can slip off the wheel, which ruins accuracy and can damage the workpiece.

When cuts are slow or wander

If you’re seeing slow feed rates or drift, use our DIY symptom help for band saw cutting slowly and band saw not cutting straight.

Last updated: February 2026

The 4-inch rule is a bandsaw safety guideline: we keep our hands and fingers at least 4 inches away from the moving blade at all times. On the Craftsman 351214600 band saw, that means using push tools and proper setup so the work stays controlled and your hands never drift toward the cut line.

How to follow the 4-inch rule on a Craftsman 351214600

  • Use a push stick or push block whenever the cut would bring your hands within 4 inches of the blade.
  • Keep your hands out of line with the blade path; guide the work from the sides, not directly behind the blade.
  • Let the blade reach full speed before feeding the work.
  • Use a smooth, steady feed; forcing the cut increases the chance your hands slip forward.
  • Never clear scraps near the blade while it is moving; stop the saw first.
  • Wear eye protection; do not wear gloves while operating the saw.

Setup checks that make the rule easier to follow

A well-adjusted saw tracks straighter and needs less “hand correction,” which helps you maintain that 4-inch margin.

Setup item What “good” looks like What happens if it is off
Blade tension Blade is properly tensioned before use Blade wanders, binds, or grabs
Blade tracking Wheels are aligned and blade stays centered Blade can drift or slip
Blade guides Guides are adjusted before operation Poor control and rough cutting
Work support Workpiece is supported flat and stable Tipping and sudden hand movement

For model-specific adjustment steps (tracking, guides, blade changes), use the owner's manual.

Why it matters

Most bandsaw injuries happen when a hand gets too close during a small cut, a bind, or a sudden drift. Keeping a consistent 4-inch buffer, combined with correct blade tracking and guide adjustment, prevents “reflex grabs” near the blade.

If you are struggling to keep your hands back because the saw is fighting the cut, these guides help:

Last updated: February 2026

On the Craftsman band saw model 351214600, the main parts are the blade and wheel system (upper and lower wheels), the table and fence/miter setup for guiding cuts, and the adjustment systems that control blade tension, tracking, and guide alignment. For the exact component names and locations, use the owner's manual.

Main parts you will see on most band saws

These are the core assemblies that make the saw cut and keep the blade running true:

  • Upper wheel and lower (drive) wheel: the wheels the blade rides on; the lower wheel is typically driven by the motor
  • Band saw blade: the cutting loop; tooth style and sharpness strongly affect cut quality and speed
  • Table and blade slot: supports the workpiece and allows the blade to pass through
  • Blade guides and thrust bearing: keep the blade from wandering and reduce twisting during cuts
  • Tension control: tightens the blade so it tracks correctly and does not slip
  • Tracking control: centers the blade on the wheels to prevent it from walking off
  • Motor and drive belt/pulleys (common on many benchtop designs): transfer power to the drive wheel

Model 351214600 parts called out in the manual

Your Craftsman 351214600 documentation also highlights several practical components used for setup and maintenance:

  • Miter gauge assembly (for angled crosscuts)
  • Crank handle (used for an adjustment mechanism during setup)
  • Dust bag (for basic dust collection)
  • Blade cleaning brush (keeps debris off the drive wheel and helps reduce tracking and slippage issues)

Quick “what it does” reference

Part/assembly What it does When it needs attention
Blade tension and tracking controls Keeps blade tight and centered on wheels Blade slips, wanders, or won’t stay on wheels
Blade guides Supports blade during cutting Crooked cuts, rough cuts, blade twisting
Wheels and tires Carry the blade and maintain grip Poor tracking, vibration, blade slipping
Table and miter gauge Supports and guides the workpiece Inaccurate straight or angled cuts

Why it matters

Knowing the major parts helps you diagnose symptoms faster. For example, slow cutting usually points to blade condition or feed technique, while crooked cuts often point to guide adjustment, tracking, or blade selection.

Last updated: February 2026

Symptoms for band saws

Choose a symptom to see related band saw repairs.

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These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your band saw.

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If the motor runs but the blade doesn't move, it could be that the drive belt is broken. Here's how to replace it.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
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How to replace a band saw blade

If the saw blade is dull or damaged and isn't cutting cleanly, replace the blade following these steps.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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