How to determine the size of a drill press?
A drill press is typically “sized” by its throat (also called swing), which is the distance from the spindle centerline to the column; on the Craftsman 137229200 20-inch drill press, the manual lists a 10-1/4 inch throat. For capacity, also check spindle travel and maximum height in the owner's manual.
Most drill press size labels refer to throat/swing, not the maximum drilling height.
- Throat (spindle-to-column distance): tells you how far from an edge you can drill into a workpiece
- Swing (often advertised size): typically about 2x the throat (approximate)
- Spindle travel (quill travel): how deep the bit can feed in one stroke
- Overall height: how tall the machine is, not the drilling capacity by itself
| Spec | What it affects | Value |
|---|---|---|
| Throat | Max distance from an edge to hole center | 10-1/4 in. |
| Spindle travel | Max feed depth per stroke | 4-3/4 in. |
| Table size | Work support area | 19-1/4 in. x 18-3/8 in. |
| Base size | Footprint | 17-3/4 in. x 24-1/8 in. |
| Height | Overall machine height | 66-3/4 in. |
If you do not have the spec sheet handy, you can confirm the “size” with a tape measure:
- Unplug the drill press for safety.
- Measure from the center of the chuck/spindle straight back to the front of the column (that is the throat).
- Double that number to estimate the swing (common marketing size).
- Measure spindle travel by lowering the quill from fully up to fully down.
Choosing the right drill press size prevents frustration and unsafe setups. Throat/swing determines whether you can drill where you need on wide boards, while spindle travel and table setup determine whether you can drill cleanly and consistently.
Last updated: February 2026
What is a good horsepower for a drill press?
A good horsepower for a drill press depends on what you drill most often. For general DIY drilling in wood and light metal, about 1/3 to 1/2 HP is a solid target; for frequent larger bits, hole saws, or tougher metal, 3/4 HP and up performs better. For your Craftsman 137229200 20" drill press, use the owner's manual to match speed and setup to the material.
- Woodworking (most hobby use): 1/3 to 1/2 HP
- Light metal (aluminum, thin steel): 1/2 to 3/4 HP
- Heavier metalwork (larger holes in steel): 3/4 to 1-1/2 HP
- Production or industrial drilling: 1-1/2 HP and higher
Horsepower helps prevent stalling, belt slip, and overheating, but drilling results also depend on speed selection, bit type, and how securely the work is held.
- Spindle speed choice: slower for larger bits and harder metals
- Bit sharpness and type: dull bits overload any motor
- Workholding: clamp the workpiece for large holes to prevent grabbing and spinning
- Feed pressure: steady pressure avoids burning and chatter
- Lubrication for metal: a small amount of oil on the bit tip helps prevent overheating
| If you usually drill... | A good HP range | What you gain |
|---|---|---|
| Small holes, mostly wood | 1/3 to 1/2 HP | Smooth drilling, lower cost |
| Mixed wood and light metal | 1/2 to 3/4 HP | Better torque, less bogging |
| Larger bits in steel | 3/4 HP+ | Less stalling, cleaner holes |
Choosing enough horsepower helps you drill safely and accurately. When a drill press is underpowered for the job, it is more likely to stall or grab, which can damage bits and make the workpiece harder to control.
Last updated: February 2026
What is the 4 inch rule for drill press?
The “4-inch rule” is a drill press safety habit: keep your hands and fingers at least 4 inches away from the spinning bit and the point of operation. On the Craftsman 137229200 20-inch drill press, we recommend clamping the work so your hands never need to get close to the bit.
- Clamp the workpiece to the table or hold it in a drill press vise; do not hand-hold small stock.
- Use a fence, stop block, or jig to position the work instead of your fingers.
- Lower the quill using the feed handles only; keep your free hand on the handle, not near the bit.
- Remove the chuck key immediately after tightening the bit.
- Clear the table of tools and scraps before turning the drill press on.
- Let the spindle reach full speed before drilling; stop and unplug if you notice unusual vibration.
The 137229200 owner's manual stresses keeping hands out of the drill bit’s path and securing the work with clamps or a vise. The 4-inch rule is an easy way to enforce those instructions consistently, especially when drilling larger holes where the bit can grab and spin the work.
| Task | Safer choice | Why it helps |
|---|---|---|
| Holding the work | Clamp or vise | Keeps hands away from the bit |
| Small parts | Use a jig or fixture | Prevents slips into the cutting area |
| Clothing/PPE | Eye protection; no gloves or loose clothing | Reduces entanglement and flying-debris risk |
| Setup | Tighten table/head locks | Prevents shifting during drilling |
Most drill press injuries happen when a workpiece shifts, spins, or a hand slips toward the bit. Keeping a 4-inch buffer, plus clamping and proper setup, prevents “reflex grabs” near the rotating tool.
Last updated: February 2026
What are 5 important rules for a drill press?
For the Craftsman 137229200 20" drill press, five key rules are: bolt the drill press down, wear proper eye protection, secure the work with clamps or a vise, keep hands out of the drill bit path, and set the recommended speed for the bit and material. See the owner's manual for the full safety list.
- Bolt it down: Secure the drill press to a sturdy workbench; if the bench can move, secure the bench to the floor.
- Wear the right PPE: Use safety goggles (not regular glasses); add a face or dust mask for dusty drilling and hearing protection for long runs.
- Clamp the work: Use clamps or a vise; if using a drill press vise, fasten it to the table.
- Keep hands clear: Never place fingers where they could contact the bit; avoid awkward hand positions that can slip into the cutting path.
- Use correct speed and start safely: Use the recommended speed for accessories and materials; jog the switch to check for wobble, then let the spindle reach full speed before drilling.
| Check | What to do | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Table and head locks | Tighten table, head, and support locks | Prevents shifting during drilling |
| Clear the table | Remove tools and scraps | Prevents thrown objects and snags |
| Bit condition and setup | Use a straight bit, seated correctly in the chuck | Reduces wobble and breakage |
| Workholding | Clamp or vise the workpiece | Prevents spinning and kickback |
Most drill press injuries come from the workpiece spinning, a hand slipping into the bit path, or debris striking your eyes. Following these rules keeps the work stable, the tool running smoothly, and your hands and face protected.
Last updated: February 2026
Can you replace the chuck on a drill press?
Yes. On the Craftsman 137229200 20" drill press, you can replace the chuck (and arbor) by ejecting it from the spindle using the built-in wedge/keyhole method, then installing the replacement chuck/arbor cleanly and fully seated. Follow the safety and chuck-handling steps in the owner's manual.
Our manual describes a straightforward removal process using the spindle and quill keyholes:
- Turn the switch OFF and unplug the drill press before any adjustment or accessory change.
- Set the depth stop to hold the quill at about 3 inches down.
- Rotate the chuck by hand to align the keyholes in the spindle and quill.
- Insert the key wedge into the aligned keyholes.
- Tap the wedge lightly with a plastic-tipped hammer until the chuck and arbor drop free (catch it with your other hand).
A replacement chuck only runs true when the tapers are clean and fully seated.
- Clean the tapered surfaces (chuck and spindle/arbor) to remove dirt, grease, and oil.
- Seat the chuck/arbor straight; avoid cocking it at an angle.
- Do not strike the chuck body with a steel hammer.
- After installation, run the drill press briefly and check for wobble.
- Always remove the chuck key before turning power on; this model specifies using the self-ejecting chuck key.
| Symptom | Most common cause | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Bit wobbles (runout) | Taper not fully seated or dirty | Clean tapers; reseat chuck firmly |
| Chuck falls out | Oil/grease on taper or poor seating | Degrease; reinstall and seat fully |
| Vibration/noise | Bent bit or bearing issue | Try a straight bit; inspect bearings |
A worn or poorly seated chuck can cause runout, oversized holes, broken bits, and unsafe workpiece grabbing. A correct chuck swap restores accuracy and helps the spindle and bearings last longer.
Last updated: February 2026
