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MTD 315E640F000 snow thrower

MTD 315E640F000 snow thrower Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for MTD 315E640F000 snow thrower, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 315E640F000 Snowblowers

MTD Snow Thrower 315E640F000 FAQs

A 2-stage snowblower is the better all-around choice for most driveways because it handles deep snow well with fewer moving parts and typically costs less. A 3-stage is better when you regularly hit dense, icy plow banks and want faster intake and throwing in extreme conditions.

Key differences (2-stage vs 3-stage)

  • 2-stage: Front auger pulls snow in; an impeller throws it out the chute.
  • 3-stage: Adds an accelerator auger between the intake auger and impeller to move snow faster.
  • Best use case: 2-stage for most homes; 3-stage for frequent heavy, wet, compacted, or icy snow.
  • Complexity: 3-stage has more components to maintain.
  • Weight and handling: 3-stage units are often heavier, which can matter on slopes or tight storage.

Which one is “better” for your situation?

Use this quick comparison to match the stage to your conditions.

Your typical conditions Better choice Why
4 to 12 inches, mixed powder and wet snow 2-stage Strong performance with simpler design
End-of-driveway plow berms, compacted snow 3-stage Faster, more aggressive snow processing
Long driveway, large clearing area 3-stage (or strong 2-stage) Higher throughput can save time
Tight budget, easier maintenance priority 2-stage Lower cost and fewer wear points

What to consider for your MTD 315E640F000

Even within the same “stage,” performance depends on setup and upkeep. For an MTD snow thrower like model 315E640F000, these factors usually make the biggest difference:

  • Auger and drive belt condition (slipping belts reduce throwing distance)
  • Skid shoe and shave plate adjustment (controls scraping and intake height)
  • Chute control adjustment (keeps aiming smooth and consistent)
  • Shear pins (protect the auger; broken pins reduce clearing power)
  • Engine tune basics (fresh fuel, correct oil level, clean spark plug)

Why it matters

Choosing the right stage is really about matching the machine’s snow intake and throwing capacity to what you see most often. If you rarely deal with icy berms, a 2-stage typically clears just as effectively with less cost and complexity.

For maintenance and performance tips that apply to most snowblowers, we recommend starting with how to make your snowblower last longer.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes, it’s worth fixing an older MTD snow thrower like model 315E640F000 when the problem is a normal wear item (belt, skid shoes, shave plate, spark plug, friction wheel) and the machine is otherwise solid; it’s usually not worth it when the repair is a major drivetrain or engine issue that approaches half the cost of a comparable replacement.

Quick decision checklist

  • Starts and runs well (or likely will with basic tune-up parts)
  • Auger and drive engage without grinding, slipping, or loud knocking
  • No major gearbox damage (oil leakage, seized auger shaft, broken case)
  • Frame and housing are solid (no severe rust-through or cracked welds)
  • Parts availability looks good for your model on Sears PartsDirect

Typical repairs: cost and effort comparison

These are common snowblower repairs and how they usually pencil out.

Repair type Typical DIY difficulty Usually worth fixing? Notes
Belt replacement Medium Yes Common wear item; restores auger or drive function.
Spark plug and fuel refresh Easy Yes Often fixes hard-start or rough-run complaints.
Skid shoes and shave plate Easy Yes Protects the housing and improves scraping performance.
Friction wheel or drive adjustments Medium Often Good value if the engine is strong and the chassis is solid.
Gearbox or engine internal repair Hard Often no Cost and time rise fast; reliability can still be uncertain.

A simple “50% rule” that works

We use this rule of thumb because it keeps the decision practical:

  • Add up parts + any shop labor.
  • If the total is under about 50% of a comparable new snowblower, repair is the better value.
  • If it’s over about 50%, replacement is the better value unless you specifically want to restore the machine.

Why it matters

A snowblower that already fits your driveway and throws well can be cheaper to keep running than replacing, especially when the fix is routine maintenance. Major engine or gearbox work can turn into a long, expensive project with limited payoff.

If you decide to repair: best first steps

  • Drain old fuel; refill with fresh fuel (and stabilizer if stored).
  • Check the spark plug condition and gap.
  • Inspect belts for glazing, cracking, or stretching.
  • Confirm auger shear pins are intact and the auger turns freely.
  • Lubricate key points; see how to lubricate a snowblower drive hex shaft video.

Last updated: February 2026

A gas snowblower like the MTD 315E640F000 typically lasts 10 to 20 years with normal residential use and consistent maintenance. Most replacements happen sooner because of neglected fuel storage, worn belts, or corrosion, not because the machine is “used up.”

Typical lifespan ranges

Lifespan depends most on maintenance, storage conditions, and how often you clear heavy, wet snow.

  • 10 to 20 years: common for well-maintained gas snowblowers
  • 8 to 12 years: typical when maintenance is occasional and storage is damp
  • 15 to 20+ years: common when fuel is stabilized, oil is changed on schedule, and wear items are replaced early
Usage and care level What we typically see What shortens life most
Light use, good care 15 to 20+ years Old fuel, rust from storage
Moderate use, average care 10 to 15 years Belt wear, friction wheel wear
Heavy use, minimal care 8 to 12 years Corrosion, drivetrain wear, carburetor issues

Maintenance that adds the most years

These steps prevent the most common “end of life” failures on a snow thrower: fuel system problems, drive wear, and seized moving parts.

  • Change engine oil regularly; dirty oil accelerates engine wear
  • Use fresh fuel and stabilize fuel before storage to reduce carburetor varnish
  • Inspect and replace worn belts before they slip and overheat
  • Lubricate the drive system and rotating shafts to prevent binding and premature wear
  • Keep skid shoes and the shave plate adjusted so the housing does not grind on pavement

A good maintenance baseline is covered in how to make your snowblower last longer.

When repair vs. replace makes sense

We recommend repairing when the machine still starts reliably and the auger and drive systems are solid. Replacement usually makes sense when multiple major systems are failing at once.

Replace is usually the better call when:

  • The engine has low power plus hard starting (even with fresh fuel and a good spark plug)
  • The auger gearbox or drive system has repeated failures
  • Corrosion has weakened the housing or key mounting points
  • Total repair cost is approaching about half the snowblower’s current value

Why it matters

Knowing the typical lifespan helps you plan maintenance and avoid mid-storm breakdowns. On the MTD 315E640F000, routine oil changes, fuel care, and lubrication usually add more usable years than any single “upgrade.”

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your snowblowers

Choose a symptom to see related snowblower repairs.

Main causes: clogged chute, damaged auger blades, broken shear pins, worn auger belt, damaged gear case, engine problems…

Things to do: replace the spark plug, change the oil, rebuild the carburetor, adjust valve lash, adjust or replace the b…

Main causes: dirty carburetor, stale fuel…

Main causes: clogged chute, snow build-up in auger housing, broken auger shear pins, auger drive belt needs adjustment, …

Main causes: broken shear pins, worn or loose auger drive belt, auger drive cable failure, damaged auger, bad gear case…

Main causes: snow build-up in chute, chute drive mechanism failure, bad chute control assembly…

Main causes: loose drive clutch cable, damaged drive clutch cable, worn friction disc, scraper blade scraping the ground…

Main causes: dirty carburetor, clogged fuel filter, dirty spark plug, incorrect valve lash, leaky engine gaskets…

Repair guides for gas snowblowers

These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your snowblower.

How to adjust snowblower skid shoes

How to adjust snowblower skid shoes

To prevent snowblower auger and shave plate damage, adjust the skid shoes regularly to keep the shave plate ¼-inch high.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to rebuild a snowblower carburetor

How to rebuild a snowblower carburetor

Rebuild the carburetor on your snowblower if the engine isn't getting fuel.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 45 minutes or less
How to replace a snowblower 4-way chute control assembly

How to replace a snowblower 4-way chute control assembly

Replace the 4-way chute control assembly on your snowblower if it’s damaged.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 30 minutes or less

Effective articles & videos to help repair your snowblowers

Use the advice and tips in these articles and videos to get the most out of your snowblower.

How to find the age of your Craftsman snowblower

How to find the age of your Craftsman snowblower

If you're looking for the age of you Craftsman snowblower, our guide will help.…

How to adjust the snowblower drive control cable video

How to adjust the snowblower drive control cable video

Proper drive control cable tension is key to smooth snowblower operation, and you can learn how to test and adjust it yo…

How to lubricate a snowblower drive hex shaft video

How to lubricate a snowblower drive hex shaft video

Avoid costly snowblower repairs this season. Watch how to lubricate the drive hex shaft to prevent friction, improve tra…

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