Samsung RF28HMEDBSR/AA-14 bottom-mount refrigerator Parts

The Samsung RF28HMEDBSR bottom-mount refrigerator is typically about 35 3/4 in. wide and about 70 in. tall (with hinges). Depth varies based on whether handles and hinges are installed; use the exact configuration measurements listed in the RF28HMEDBSR owner's manual when planning a tight fit.

Common dimension configurations (what to measure)

When you measure for installation, we recommend checking these points:

• Width at the widest point (usually the case width)
• Height to the top of the hinge cover (not just the cabinet)
• Depth with handles (deepest point)
• Depth without handles (for counter-depth planning)
• Door swing clearance (space needed to open doors fully)
• Ventilation clearance behind and above the cabinet

Quick reference table (typical ways dimensions are listed)

Measurement label	What it includes	Why it changes
WxHxD with hinges and handles	Full installed footprint	Deepest and tallest configuration
WxHxD with hinges, no handles	Installed height, reduced depth	Handles removed or recessed
WxHxD without hinges and doors	Cabinet only	Used for moving through doorways

Why it matters

A few inches can determine whether the RF28HMEDBSR fits between cabinets, clears an overhead soffit, or allows the doors and freezer drawer to open without hitting a wall. Using the correct “with handles” or “without handles” depth prevents surprises on delivery day.

Tips before you commit to a space

• Measure the opening in three places (top, middle, bottom) for width.
• Confirm flooring height changes (tile transitions can affect door clearance).
• Plan extra room for the water line and power cord behind the unit.
• If you are replacing an older fridge, verify the doorway and hallway clearance too.

Last updated: February 2026

The Samsung RF28HMEDBSR refrigerator is a full-size, 36-inch-class unit; the exterior width is typically about 35 3/4 inches and the overall height is about 70 inches. Depth varies most by whether the doors and handles are installed; confirm your exact configuration in the RF28HMEDBSR owner's manual.

Dimensions to check before you buy or install

These are the measurements that most often affect fit, door swing, and how far the refrigerator will project past cabinets:

• Width: measure at the widest point (often the hinge area)
• Height: measure floor to the top of the hinge cover (about 70 in. overall)
• Depth: compare with handles vs. without handles
• Door swing clearance: allow room for French doors to open fully
• Rear clearance: leave space for airflow and the water line

Typical configuration differences (what changes)

Configuration	What changes most	Why it matters
With doors and handles	Deepest overall depth	Determines cabinet alignment and “stick-out”
With doors, no handles	Slightly less depth	Helps if you are tight to an island or walkway
Without doors	Much less depth	Useful for moving through doorways

How we recommend measuring (fast and accurate)

• Measure width across the front at the widest point.
• Measure height from the floor to the top hinge cover (do not measure to the top of the door only).
• Measure depth from the back panel to the front of the handle (or to the door face if handles are off).
• Add space for water line routing and ventilation behind the cabinet.

Why it matters

Using the correct height (about 70 inches) and the correct depth for your handle/door setup prevents common problems like cabinet interference, doors hitting walls, and kinking the water supply line.

Last updated: February 2026

Ice at the bottom of your Samsung RF28HMEDBSR bottom-mount refrigerator forms when moisture turns into frost and meltwater cannot drain away, so it refreezes into a sheet of ice. The top causes are a frozen or clogged defrost drain, door air leaks, or blocked airflow.

Quick checks we recommend

• Confirm doors close fully and nothing is pinched in the gasket.
• Look for a solid ice sheet on the freezer floor or water under crispers.
• Make sure interior vents are not blocked by food packages.
• Verify the refrigerator is level; slightly higher in front helps doors self-close.
• Check for heavy frost on the rear interior panel.

Most likely causes and fixes

Frozen or clogged defrost drain

Defrost water should flow to the drain pan; when the drain freezes or clogs, water pools and refreezes.

• Unplug the refrigerator.
• Remove the freezer drawer to access the bottom area.
• Melt ice with warm towels or a hair dryer on low (keep heat moving).
• Flush the drain with hot water using a turkey baster until it runs freely.
• If your unit uses a drain cap and it is damaged or missing, replace it with refrigerator drain cap DA67-01301A.

Door gasket leak (humid air intrusion)

Warm, humid air entering the compartment creates excess frost that later melts and refreezes.

• Clean the gasket with warm soapy water; dry it fully.
• Do the paper test; the paper should resist being pulled out when the door is closed.

Symptom-to-cause guide

What you see	Most common cause	Best next step
Ice sheet on freezer floor	Frozen/clogged drain	Defrost and flush drain
Water under crispers	Drain restriction	Clear drain, recheck in 24 hours
Heavy frost on back wall	Door leak or blocked vents	Check gasket, clear vents

Why it matters

A restricted drain and air leaks create a repeat cycle of frost, meltwater, and refreezing; that can block airflow and cause temperature swings. For model-specific access steps and panel locations, use the RF28HMEDBSR owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Samsung RF28HMEDBSR bottom-mount refrigerator freezer is not freezing, the most common causes are restricted airflow from frost buildup, a failed evaporator fan, a temperature sensor problem, or a sealed-system issue (compressor/inverter). Start with settings and airflow checks before replacing parts; confirm procedures in the RF28HMEDBSR owner's manual.

Quick checks that fix many “not freezing” complaints

• Make sure the freezer is set to about 0°F (typical target).
• Verify the freezer door closes fully; check for gaps in the gasket.
• Avoid overpacking; blocked vents prevent cold air circulation.
• Look for heavy frost on the rear freezer panel (often points to a defrost or airflow problem).
• Listen for the evaporator fan when the door switch is pressed (fan should run during cooling).
• After a power outage or move, allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.

What the symptom usually points to

What you notice	Likely area to check	What to do next
Freezer warm, fresh food also warming	Cooling system not running well	Check condenser area for airflow; listen for compressor operation
Freezer warm, fresh food OK	Airflow/evaporator issue	Check for frost buildup and evaporator fan operation
Frost blanket behind rear panel	Defrost/airflow restriction	Defrost manually (unplug, doors open) and recheck cooling
Ice maker slow, dispenser weak	Water system issue (separate from freezing)	Address water filter and supply, not the freezer temp

Parts that commonly solve the problem (when testing confirms failure)

Only replace parts after basic checks above point to them:

• Temperature sensing issues: a failed sensor can misread temps and reduce cooling; see refrigerator temperature sensor DA32-10104N or refrigerator temperature sensor DA32-00033C.
• Sealed-system or compressor not starting: if the compressor is not running or starts then stops, the overload or inverter can be involved; a confirmed compressor failure may require Samsung refrigerator compressor NC1MV90ALPASH.

Why it matters

A freezer that cannot reach 0°F can cause food spoilage and forces the compressor to run longer, which increases wear on components like the compressor, inverter, and fans. Fixing airflow restrictions early prevents repeat icing and temperature swings.

Last updated: February 2026