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Delta 22-560 portable planer

Delta 22-560 portable planer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Delta 22-560 portable planer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 22-560 Power Tools

  • Guard for Delta 22-560 - Part 1342169

    Base/infeed/outfeed diagram

    Guard

    Part #1342169

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Motor Housing for Delta 22-560 - Part 1342150

    Armature/motor/wiring diagram diagram

    Motor Housing

    Part #1342150

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Ball for Delta 22-560 - Part 1343769

    Base/infeed/outfeed diagram

    Ball

    Part #1343769

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • (din 7380) M8 X 16mm Button Hd Scr for Delta 22-560 - Part 1346163

    Armature/motor/wiring diagram diagram

    (din 7380) M8 X 16mm Button Hd Scr

    Part #1346163

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Washer for Delta 22-560 - Part 1243520

    Base/infeed/outfeed diagram

    Washer

    Part #1243520

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Screw for Delta 22-560 - Part 1246135

    Base/infeed/outfeed diagram

    Screw

    Part #1246135

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Stud for Delta 22-560 - Part 1342166

    Base/infeed/outfeed diagram

    Stud

    Part #1342166

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Sprocket for Delta 22-560 - Part 1342137

    Base/infeed/outfeed diagram

    Sprocket

    Part #1342137

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Delta Portable Planer 22-560 FAQs

Yes, you can run a 2x4 through a Delta 22-560 portable planer, as long as it’s straight enough to feed safely and you take light passes; the planer will make the faces parallel, but it will not automatically make the edges square like a jointer. For parts and diagrams for model 22-560, start with the model parts list, or search by model on Sears PartsDirect.

Best practices for planing a 2x4

  • Inspect for nails, staples, grit, and knots; metal will damage the cutterhead knives.
  • Start with the board’s flattest face down; take light cuts to reduce snipe and tear-out.
  • Feed with the grain when possible; reversing grain increases tear-out.
  • Keep the board supported infeed and outfeed; long 2x4s can lever and cause snipe.
  • Stop if you hear chatter or the board stalls; reduce depth of cut.

How to avoid a “trapezoid” 2x4

A planer references the face riding on the bed. If the board is twisted, bowed, or has a crowned edge, the planer can follow that shape and you can end up with faces that are parallel but not truly flat or square to the edges.

Common fixes:

  • Joint one face first (or use a planer sled with shims) so the first face becomes truly flat.
  • After one face is flat, plane the opposite face to thickness.
  • Square one edge on a table saw or jointer after planing.

Quick setup guide (what to do first)

Goal Best tool order Result
Make board thinner, faces parallel Planer only Thickness improves; edges may still be out of square
Make board flat and square Jointer (or sled) then planer, then saw/jointer edge Flat faces and square edge
Reduce snipe on 2x4s Light passes, good support, steady feed Cleaner ends

Why it matters

2x4 lumber is often wet, twisted, and knotty. Taking lighter passes and flattening one face first protects your Delta planer’s knives, improves surface quality, and helps you get predictable, square stock for joinery.

Last updated: February 2026

A planer (like the Delta 22-560 portable planer) is better when you need to flatten boards and reduce thickness fast; a sander is better when you need controlled smoothing and final surface prep. In most shops they are complementary: plane to size, then sand to finish.

Best tool for the job

  • Choose a planer to remove a lot of material quickly, true up rough lumber, and make boards a consistent thickness.
  • Choose a sander (random-orbit, belt, or drum sander) to refine the surface, remove planer marks, and prep for stain or paint.
  • Use both when you want flat stock and a furniture-ready finish.

Planer vs sander: quick comparison

Task Planer (Delta 22-560) Sander
Reduce thickness fast Excellent Slow
Flatten cupped/twisted boards Good (within limits) Poor
Final finish quality Leaves cutter marks Excellent with fine grits
Risk to figured grain Higher (tear-out) Lower
Best use stage Milling Finishing

What to expect from each tool

With a planer

  • Removes material in passes using rotating knives/cutterhead.
  • Can leave snipe at the ends if infeed/outfeed support is poor.
  • Can cause tear-out on curly or highly figured wood.

With a sander

  • Removes small amounts of material with abrasive.
  • Better control on end grain and delicate surfaces.
  • Slower for major thickness changes; can round edges if you linger.

Why it matters

Using the right tool saves time and improves results. Planing gets you flat, consistent stock quickly; sanding is what gets you to a clean, even surface that accepts finish well.

Parts and maintenance note

If your Delta 22-560 is leaving heavy ridges, chattering, or burning, we recommend checking the parts diagram and maintenance items (cutting knives, drive components, and feed system parts) for wear. You can look up parts by model number on Sears PartsDirect.

Last updated: February 2026

Common problems we see with the Delta 22-560 portable planer include snipe at the board ends, uneven thickness, tearout (chipout), and chatter marks. These issues usually trace back to dull or nicked knives, dirty feed rollers, incorrect depth-of-cut, or stock that is warped or fed inconsistently.

Most common planer symptoms and likely causes

  • Snipe (dip at the first or last few inches): infeed/outfeed support not level, board lifting, or feed pressure changes at entry/exit
  • Uneven cut or taper: cutterhead/bed alignment off, dirty bed, or inconsistent pressure while feeding
  • Tearout or chipout: dull knives, taking too deep a pass, or planing against the grain
  • Chatter (ripples): loose fasteners, vibration, worn bearings, or knives not seated evenly
  • Poor feeding or stalling: pitch buildup on feed rollers, glazed rollers, or excessive depth-of-cut
  • Burn marks: dull knives, slow feed, or resin buildup on the bed/rollers

Quick checks we recommend (before buying parts)

  • Unplug the planer; inspect knives for nicks and resin buildup.
  • Clean the bed and feed rollers; wax the bed (avoid getting wax on rollers).
  • Reduce depth-of-cut; for hard woods, take lighter passes.
  • Support long boards with infeed/outfeed stands to prevent lifting.
  • Check that the cutterhead lock (if equipped) is engaged and the height adjustment is not drifting.

Defect-to-fix guide

What you see Most common fix Best first step
Snipe Improve board support, lighter last pass Add outfeed support and take a final skim pass
Tearout Sharper knives, correct grain direction Flip board direction; reduce cut depth
Chatter Tighten, reduce vibration, check bearings Verify knife seating and fastener tightness
Won’t feed Clean rollers, reduce cut depth Clean rollers and try a shallow pass

Why it matters

Planer defects are more than cosmetic. Snipe and taper ruin thickness accuracy, and tearout and chatter can force extra sanding or re-milling. Feeding problems also increase the risk of kickback and flying debris, so consistent setup and maintenance protect both your workpiece and your safety.

Parts help for the Delta 22-560

If cleaning and setup do not solve the issue, we recommend looking up the Delta 22-560 parts breakdown and matching the symptom to wear items (knives, belts, bearings, feed roller components). Use Sears PartsDirect to search by model number and find the correct replacement parts.

Last updated: February 2026

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