Roper RS20EKXDW01 refrigerator Parts

For a Roper side-by-side refrigerator like model RS20EKXDW01, the most expensive repair is typically the sealed-system work, most often the compressor replacement. It is labor-intensive, requires specialized tools, and the part itself is one of the highest-cost components.

The compressor is the “heart” of the cooling system; when it fails, the repair often includes extra sealed-system steps (evacuation, brazing, recharging) that drive up total cost.

Common high-cost refrigerator repairs include:

• Compressor replacement (part plus sealed-system labor)
• Sealed-system issues (refrigerant leak detection and repair, drier replacement, recharge)
• Evaporator or condenser tubing repairs (sealed-system labor)
• Electronic control problems (on models that use a main control board)

On this RS20EKXDW01 parts list, the compressor is available as refrigerator compressor W10309990.

Actual totals vary by region and access, but this is the usual pattern:

We use these quick checks to guide the decision:

• If the refrigerator is cooling poorly in both sections, sealed-system or compressor issues move to the top of the list.
• If only the freezer is cold and the fresh-food side is warm, airflow parts like the evaporator fan are more likely.
• If you see heavy frost buildup, defrost components can be the real culprit.
• If the unit runs constantly and temperatures swing, a control like the thermostat can be involved.

For airflow troubleshooting steps, use how to fix your evaporator cooling fan.

Misdiagnosing a sealed-system problem can lead to replacing lower-cost parts (like a thermostat or defrost timer) without restoring cooling. Identifying whether the issue is airflow, defrost, or sealed-system helps you spend money once and fix it right.

Last updated: February 2026

In a Roper side-by-side refrigerator like model RS20EKXDW01, the most commonly replaced parts are the ones that affect temperature control, airflow, defrosting, and door sealing. These parts wear over time, get blocked by ice or debris, or fail electrically, causing warm temperatures, frost buildup, leaks, or door-closing issues.

Here are the parts we see replaced most often on side-by-side refrigerators:

• Temperature control parts (thermostat, sensors): help maintain safe food temperatures
• Airflow parts (evaporator fan motor, air diffuser/damper): move cold air through both compartments
• Defrost system parts (defrost timer, heater, thermostat): prevent the evaporator from icing over
• Door sealing and closing parts (gasket, door cams): keep warm air out and help doors shut fully
• Water and ice parts (water filter, ice maker, inlet valve): affect ice production and water dispensing
• Condenser fan motor: removes heat from the sealed system area

If you are troubleshooting cooling, frosting, or door problems, these RS20EKXDW01 parts are common starting points:

• Temperature swings or warm fridge: refrigerator thermostat WP2198202
• Frost buildup or intermittent defrost: refrigerator defrost timer W10822278
• Warm fridge but freezer seems colder: refrigerator diffuser WPW10151374
• Noisy or weak airflow in freezer: refrigerator evaporator motor 4389144
• Door not closing smoothly: refrigerator door closer cam WPW10329686 or refrigerator door cam (black) 4318165

These parts directly affect food safety temperatures, energy use, and compressor run time. Fixing a worn gasket, weak fan motor, or defrost issue early helps prevent bigger problems like chronic icing, constant running, and poor cooling performance.

For water-related maintenance that often prevents service calls, use our guide: how to replace the water filter in a Roper refrigerator.

Last updated: February 2026

Yes. On a Roper RS20EKXDW01 side-by-side refrigerator, we can replace many common parts ourselves (door cams, door switch, thermostat, diffuser, and some fan components) using basic hand tools. Repairs involving refrigerant lines or sealed-system components should be handled by a technician.

Here is a practical way to decide what is safe and realistic.

• Good DIY: door not closing, light not working, warm fridge due to airflow issues, minor leaks from a drain issue
• Usually DIY with care: replacing a defrost timer or thermostat (unplug first, label wires)
• Technician-only: sealed-system work (refrigerant), compressor replacement, brazing/soldering, refrigerant recovery

• Unplug the refrigerator (or shut off power at the breaker) before removing panels or handling wiring.
• Confirm the symptom (door issue, no light, frost buildup, warm temps) so you replace the right part.
• Take photos and label wires before disconnecting anything.
• Use a small container for screws so nothing drops into the drain pan area.
• Restore settings and monitor temps after the repair; allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.

These are common wear items for RS20EKXDW01 that match typical symptoms:

• Door not self-closing: refrigerator door closer cam WPW10329686 or refrigerator door cam (black) 4318165
• Light problems: refrigerator door switch WP2149705
• Defrost issues (frost blanket on evaporator cover): refrigerator defrost timer W10822278
• Temperature control issues: refrigerator thermostat WP2198202

DIY replacement of accessible parts can restore proper door sealing, airflow, and defrost performance, which protects food temperatures and reduces compressor run time. Attempting sealed-system repairs without the right equipment risks damage to the refrigerator and personal injury.

For a DIY walkthrough that fits common refrigerator maintenance, we also use can i fix my own fridge as a starting point.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Roper RS20EKXDW01 side-by-side refrigerator is not cooling, the most common causes are poor airflow (dirty condenser coils or a failed fan), a defrost system problem causing frost buildup, or a temperature control/air damper issue that prevents cold air from moving into the fresh food section.

• Confirm the refrigerator has power and the interior lights work.
• Make sure both doors fully close and seal; warm air leaks quickly reduce cooling.
• Set controls to a normal mid setting and wait 12 to 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.
• Check for heavy frost on the freezer back wall (a strong sign of a defrost problem).
• Listen for fans: the evaporator fan (freezer) and condenser fan (near compressor) should run at times.

Cold air is made in the freezer and moved by the evaporator fan; if airflow is blocked or the fan is weak, both sections warm up.

Parts to consider for RS20EKXDW01:

• Refrigerator evaporator motor 4389144 (moves cold air through the freezer and into the refrigerator)
• Condenser motor 833697 (cools the condenser and helps the compressor shed heat)
• Refrigerator diffuser WPW10151374 (air damper/diffuser that regulates cold air into the fresh food section)

If the evaporator coils ice over, air cannot pass through the coil, so temperatures rise.

• A failed defrost control can stop defrost cycles; for this model, a common control is the refrigerator defrost timer W10822278.
• After manually defrosting (unplug and leave doors open), cooling may return briefly; that pattern strongly supports a defrost failure.

If the compressor and fans do not run when they should, the temperature control can be the cause.

• For RS20EKXDW01, the control to check is the refrigerator thermostat WP2198202.

Running warm can spoil food quickly and forces the compressor to run longer, which increases energy use and can accelerate wear on cooling components like the condenser fan, evaporator fan, and defrost controls.

Last updated: February 2026

Most 24.5 cu. ft. refrigerators are designed for a 36-inch opening; the cabinet (case) width is typically about 35 1/2 to 36 inches. For your Roper RS20EKXDW01 side-by-side refrigerator, use the same approach: measure the case width and door clearance to confirm fit.

Capacity does not set an exact width, but these ranges are the most common for 24 to 26 cu. ft. units:

• Standard-depth side-by-side: 35 1/2 to 36 inches
• Standard-depth French door: 35 1/2 to 36 inches
• Narrow or special-fit designs: around 33 inches (less common at 24.5 cu. ft.)
• Older 24-inch-class cabinets: typically 23 1/2 to 24 inches (usually lower capacity)

Measure in three places so you do not get surprised by trim or uneven cabinets:

• Refrigerator case width (main cabinet, not just doors)
• Opening width (front and back of the cutout)
• Door swing clearance (handles, adjacent walls, and countertop overhang)
• Ventilation space (leave at least 1/4 to 1/2 inch per side when possible)

A refrigerator that is even 1/2 inch too wide can rub cabinets, prevent proper leveling, and restrict airflow around the condenser area; restricted airflow makes the compressor work harder and can hurt cooling.

If your RS20EKXDW01 is warm or cycling oddly, a temperature control issue is more likely than cabinet width. A common control component is the refrigerator thermostat WP2198202.

Last updated: February 2026