Craftsman 35122638 2 x 8" belt & disc sander/grinder Parts

A 4x36 belt sander works for knife making, mainly for rough shaping, handle scales, and cleanup, but it is slower and less precise than a 2x72 grinder. Your Craftsman model 35122638 is a 2 x 8 inch belt and disc sander; it is best for small parts and light grinding, not primary bevel grinding.

How a 4x36 compares to Craftsman 35122638 (2 x 8 belt and disc)

A 4x36 gives you a longer belt and more usable platen area, which helps with smoother bevels and better belt life. The 35122638 uses a very short 2 x 8 belt, so it heats up faster and is harder to control on long blade bevels.

Tool type	Best knife making uses	Main limitation
4x36 belt sander	Profiling, rough bevels on small blades, handle shaping	Slower than 2x72; limited belt selection
Craftsman 35122638 (2 x 8 belt and disc)	Handle scales, small profiling, deburring, sharpening touch-ups	Very short belt; fast heat buildup; difficult to keep bevels even
2x72 belt grinder	Bevel grinding, fast stock removal, consistent geometry	Higher cost and space

What we recommend for best results

• Use the belt sander for handles, profiling, and light cleanup; use the disc for flattening and squaring small parts
• Keep pressure light and make short passes to avoid overheating the edge
• Change belts often; dull abrasives create heat and chatter
• Use a simple grinding jig or tool rest whenever possible for repeatable bevel angles
• Keep a water cup nearby and cool the blade frequently during grinding

Belt grit starting points (general)

• 60 to 80 grit: rough shaping
• 120 to 220 grit: refine scratches and geometry
• 400 grit and up: pre-finish blending (light pressure)

Why it matters

Knife steel loses performance when the edge overheats during grinding. With short-belt machines like the Craftsman 35122638, heat control and light passes are the difference between a usable blade and a softened edge.

For general safety practices before doing any DIY work, use are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026

A belt sander like the Craftsman 35122638 2 x 8" belt & disc sander/grinder removes material fast, so the main disadvantages are reduced finesse on delicate work, a higher chance of gouging, and more dust and heat compared with lighter sanding methods.

Common disadvantages (and what they look like)

• Too aggressive for fine detail: it can round over edges and erase crisp corners quickly.
• Easy to gouge or create dips: pausing in one spot can leave a low spot that is hard to blend.
• Heat buildup: friction can scorch wood, soften finishes, or glaze the abrasive.
• Dust and debris: belt sanding produces a lot of fine dust that needs good collection and cleanup.
• Noise and vibration: extended use can be tiring and can reduce control.
• Consumable cost: belts wear, clog, and tear; coarse grits get used up quickly on heavy stock removal.

How we reduce the downsides on a 2 x 8 belt and disc sander

• Start with the least aggressive grit that will still do the job.
• Keep the work moving; use light, even pressure.
• Use the disc for controlled edge work and the belt for flattening and shaping.
• Clean belts often (a belt cleaning stick helps) and replace belts that are glazed or torn.
• Use dust collection and wear eye and dust protection.

Quick comparison: belt sander vs lighter sanding options

Tool/method	Main strength	Main drawback
Belt sanding	Fast stock removal, flattening	Easy to over-sand and gouge
Random-orbit sanding	Smoother finish, fewer swirl marks	Slower material removal
Hand sanding	Best control on details	Slowest, inconsistent on large flats

Why it matters

Belt sanders are designed for speed. When you match grit, pressure, and technique to the task, you get the benefit (rapid shaping) without the common problems (dips, burn marks, and uneven surfaces).

For general DIY safety practices before working on power tools, see are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026

On the Craftsman 35122638 2 x 8" belt & disc sander/grinder, the main belt-sanding parts are the abrasive sanding belt, two rollers (drive and idler), the motor that turns the drive roller, and the belt-tracking/tension hardware that keeps the belt centered and tight during use. For a quick safety refresher before servicing, see are diy appliance repairs safe.

Main parts you will see on most belt sanders

• Abrasive sanding belt: The consumable belt that does the cutting.
• Drive roller (lower pulley/roller): Connected to the motor; pulls the belt.
• Idler roller (upper pulley/roller): Free-spinning roller that supports the belt and helps maintain tension.
• Tensioning mechanism: Spring, lever, or screw system that tightens the belt so it does not slip.
• Tracking adjustment: Fine adjustment that keeps the belt running centered on the rollers.
• Belt platen (backing plate): Flat support behind the belt for more even sanding (common on many designs).

How these parts work together

The motor spins the drive roller, which moves the abrasive belt around the roller pair. The idler roller and tension system keep the belt tight, while the tracking adjustment prevents the belt from walking off the rollers.

Part	What it does	Common symptom if it fails/misadjusts
Sanding belt	Removes material	Poor cutting, glazing, burning wood
Drive roller	Moves the belt	Belt stalls or slips under load
Idler roller	Supports belt path	Belt wobbles, uneven sanding
Tension system	Keeps belt tight	Belt slips, squeals, won’t start smoothly
Tracking adjuster	Centers the belt	Belt runs off one side

Why it matters

Knowing the drive roller, idler roller, tension, and tracking parts helps you diagnose the most common belt-sander issues (belt slipping, belt wandering, vibration) and choose the right repair approach before replacing components.

Last updated: February 2026

To replace the sanding belt on your Craftsman 35122638 2 x 8" belt and disc sander/grinder, we unplug the tool, release belt tension, remove the old belt, install the new belt in the correct direction, then re-tension and adjust tracking so the belt runs centered without rubbing.

Safety first

• Unplug the sander before opening guards or touching the belt path
• Wear eye protection and a dust mask; sanding dust is hazardous
• Keep loose clothing, hair, and jewelry away from rotating parts
• Keep fingers clear of the belt and rollers when test-running
• Reinstall all guards and covers before normal use

Belt replacement procedure (typical for this Craftsman style)

• Disconnect power (unplug).
• Open the belt guard/cover to access the belt and rollers.
• Release belt tension using the tension lever/knob (or spring-loaded idler release).
• Slide the old belt off the drive roller and idler roller.
• Install the new belt:
  • Use the correct replacement belt size for the machine (most 2 x 8" belt and disc sanders use a 2-inch wide belt that is much longer than 8 inches).
  • Follow the directional arrow printed on the belt, if present.
  • Make sure the belt is fully seated on both rollers.
• Reapply tension by returning the tension lever/knob to the operating position.
• Track the belt: plug in, stand to the side, bump the switch on briefly, then turn the tracking knob in small increments until the belt runs centered.

Tracking quick guide

Symptom	Likely cause	Fix
Belt walks to one side	Tracking needs adjustment	Turn tracking knob slightly; re-test
Belt rubs a guard	Belt not centered or not seated	Stop, re-seat belt, then re-track
Belt flutters or hops	Belt damaged or tension incorrect	Replace belt; confirm tension is set

Why it matters

Correct belt tension and tracking reduce vibration, prevent premature belt wear, and protect the rollers and platen. A centered belt also sands flatter and keeps the tool safer to use.

For general DIY safety practices before servicing power tools, use are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026