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Kenmore 2539239716 upright freezer

Kenmore 2539239716 upright freezer Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Kenmore 2539239716 upright freezer, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 2539239716 Freestanding Freezers

  • Refrigerator Filter Dryer for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 5303305677

    Unit diagram

    Filter

    Part #5308000027

    Replaced by #5303305677

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  • Upright Freezer Defrost Timer for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 5308037967

    Unit diagram

    Upright Freezer Defrost Timer

    Part #5308037967

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Gibson Freezer Door Key for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 297147700

    Door diagram

    Key

    Part #5308037402

    Replaced by #297147700

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  • Frigidaire Refrigerator Light Bulb for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 5304517886

    Liner diagram

    Bulb

    Part #5303091423

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  • Refrigerator Run Capacitor for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 5304464438

    Unit diagram

    Capacitor

    Part #216236200

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  • Laundry Appliance Screw, #8-18 X 31/100-in for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 131168200

    Liner diagram

    Grille Screw

    Part #131168200

    Replaced by #131168200

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  • Refrigerator Strap for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 5308000110

    Unit diagram

    Clip

    Part #06599536

    Replaced by #5308000110

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  • Freezer Defrost Drain Pan for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 216999900

    Cabinet diagram

    Freezer Defrost Drain Pan

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  • Freezer Breaker Strip Insulation for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 5303925098

    Cabinet diagram

    Insulation

    Part #09950831

    Replaced by #5303925098

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  • Freezer Cabinet Anchor Nut for Kenmore 2539239716 - Part 301036

    Cabinet diagram

    Nut

    Part #3017666

    Replaced by #301036

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Kenmore Upright Freezer 2539239716 FAQs

On a Kenmore upright freezer like model 2539239716, the model number is printed on the rating label inside the cabinet or around the door opening area. Common spots include an inside side wall, the ceiling of the freezer compartment, behind the toe grille (kick plate), or on the back of the unit.

Most common places to check

Look for a sticker or metal tag with the model number and serial number. Check these areas in order:

  • Inside the freezer compartment on a side wall
  • Inside the cabinet near the door opening (frame area)
  • On the ceiling of the freezer compartment
  • Behind the toe grille or kick plate at the bottom front
  • On the back exterior panel

Quick tips to find it faster

  • Use a flashlight; labels are often low-contrast and easy to miss.
  • Wipe frost or residue off the label area with a damp cloth so the numbers are readable.
  • Write down the full model number and serial number exactly as shown; this helps match the correct Kenmore parts list.

What the label usually looks like

What you’ll see Why it helps
Model number (example: 2539239716) Ensures you get the right parts diagrams and fit
Serial number Helps identify production run details
Electrical ratings (volts/amps) Useful for troubleshooting and safe testing

Why it matters

Kenmore model numbers can be very similar; using the exact model number from the rating label is the most reliable way to choose correct replacement parts and avoid ordering the wrong shelf, handle, or electrical component. For model-specific label location notes and diagrams, check the 2539239716 owner's manual.

Last updated: February 2026

For Kenmore model 2539239716, the most reliable way to get cubic feet is to look up the capacity in the model’s specifications in the owner's manual. Model numbers sometimes resemble capacity, but they are not a dependable cubic-feet code.

Fast ways to find cubic feet

  • Check the specifications/capacity section in the owner's manual.
  • Look for a rating label inside the cabinet (often on a side wall) that may list capacity.
  • Measure the interior and calculate volume (best when specs are missing).
  • Use the model number only to pull up specs, not to decode size.

How to calculate cubic feet from measurements

  1. Empty enough space to measure the usable interior.
  2. Measure height, width, depth in inches (interior only).
  3. Multiply: H x W x D = cubic inches.
  4. Convert to cubic feet: cubic inches ÷ 1728 = cubic feet.

Quick reference table

What you measure Use this Notes
Interior height (in) H Exclude floor humps, ducts, shelves if they reduce usable space
Interior width (in) W Measure the narrowest usable width
Interior depth (in) D Measure to the back wall, not the door bin area
Convert ÷ 1728 12 x 12 x 12 = 1728 cubic inches per cubic foot

Why it matters

Capacity helps you compare storage space, choose the right freezer baskets and shelves, and confirm you are ordering parts for the correct size cabinet. For parts that affect cooling performance (like a defrost heater), matching the exact model is also critical.

If you are checking a “not cold enough” or “frost buildup” issue while confirming capacity, these model-matched parts are commonly involved:

Last updated: February 2026

Water on the floor around your Kenmore 2539239716 upright freezer is usually caused by a blocked defrost drain or a drain pan issue, which lets defrost water overflow and run out at the bottom. Door gasket gaps can also create excess condensation that turns into puddles.

Most common causes (and what to check first)

  • Clogged or frozen defrost drain: Meltwater cannot flow to the drain pan, so it backs up and leaks.
  • Cracked, shifted, or overflowing drain pan: Water reaches the pan but does not stay contained.
  • Door not sealing: Warm, humid air enters, creating heavy frost and extra meltwater.
  • Cabinet not level: Water can miss the pan or run toward the front edge.

Quick troubleshooting steps

  1. Unplug the freezer and protect the floor with towels.
  2. Check for ice buildup on the freezer floor or near the rear interior panel; that points to a drain freeze-up.
  3. Clear the drain path using warm water (a turkey baster works well) and repeat until water flows freely.
  4. Inspect the drain pan underneath for cracks, warping, or being out of position; replace if damaged (this model uses a drain pan such as the freezer defrost drain pan 216999900 when applicable).
  5. Check the door seal for gaps, rips, or debris; clean the gasket and confirm the door closes squarely.

What “normal” vs. “not normal” looks like

Symptom Most likely cause Best next step
Water appears after a defrost cycle Drain restriction Flush drain with warm water
Water only at the front corners Door seal or leveling Clean gasket; level cabinet
Water under the unit near the center Drain pan issue Inspect pan position and condition
Heavy frost plus leaking Door leak causing excess frost Check gasket and door alignment

Why it matters

A leaking defrost system can lead to recurring ice buildup, warmer freezer temperatures, and slippery floors. Fixing the drain and pan issues early helps protect food quality and prevents repeat leaks.

Helpful reference

Use the owner's manual for model-specific guidance on defrost drainage, leveling, and access panels.

Last updated: February 2026

An upright freezer like Kenmore model 2539239716 usually stops freezing because cold air is not being produced or not being circulated. The most common causes are a failed defrost system (ice blocking airflow), a bad temperature control, a weak compressor start device, or dirty condenser components. See the troubleshooting and component locations in the 2539239716 owner's manual.

Quick checks you can do first

  • Confirm the control is set colder and the unit has power (interior light, fan noise, or compressor hum).
  • Make sure the door closes tightly and the gasket is sealing all the way around.
  • Look for heavy frost on the back interior panel; this often points to a defrost problem.
  • Check for blocked vents or overpacked shelves that prevent airflow.
  • Clean dust from the condenser area; restricted heat release can reduce cooling.

Most common causes (and what they look like)

What’s failing Typical symptom What you’ll notice
Defrost system (heater, controls, wiring) Frost buildup stops airflow Back wall iced over; warmer temps in cabinet
Evaporator fan or airflow restriction Cold made but not moved One area colder than others; little air movement
Temperature control or sensor issue Cooling cycles incorrectly Runs too little or runs constantly
Compressor start components (relay/overload) Compressor will not start reliably Clicking, short cycling, warm cabinet
Condenser coil dirty or restricted Poor heat rejection Long run times; gradually warming temps

Parts on this model that relate to “not freezing” symptoms

These parts are commonly involved when an upright freezer loses cooling or ices up:

Why it matters

When a freezer stops freezing, food safety and compressor health are both at risk. Catching airflow and defrost issues early helps prevent extended warm-ups, excessive frost, and unnecessary strain on the sealed system.

Last updated: February 2026

If your Kenmore upright freezer model 2539239716 won’t hold temperature, runs almost constantly, or repeatedly trips the breaker, the compressor system is a top suspect. We confirm it by checking airflow, frost pattern, and the start components before condemning the sealed system; use the 2539239716 owner's manual for model-specific operating checks.

Quick signs the compressor system is the problem

  • Freezer is warm even though the control is set colder
  • Compressor is very hot to the touch and cycles off on overload
  • Clicking or buzzing at the compressor area (start attempt, then stop)
  • Unit runs for long periods with little or no temperature drop
  • Breaker trips or the compressor won’t start at all

Rule out common look-alikes first (fast checks)

Before calling the compressor “bad,” we check these items because they cause the same symptoms and are more serviceable:

  • Condenser airflow: clean dust and confirm the condenser fan (if equipped) runs
  • Evaporator fan: confirm the fan inside the freezer runs when the door switch is closed
  • Defrost failure: heavy frost on the back wall can block airflow and mimic a weak compressor
  • Door sealing: torn gasket or a door not closing fully causes nonstop running
  • Start components: a failed start device/overload can prevent a good compressor from starting

What the symptoms usually mean

What you observe Most likely cause What we do next
Loud click every few minutes, no start Start device/overload issue or locked compressor Test start circuit; check compressor amp draw
Runs constantly, still warm Sealed system issue (low refrigerant, restriction) or weak compressor Check frost pattern and temperatures
Thick frost blanket on evaporator cover Defrost system problem Inspect defrost heater and defrost controls
Hot compressor, then shuts off Overheating from poor airflow or overload trip Clean condenser area; verify fans

Parts on this model that can relate to “compressor problems”

These parts won’t fix a failed compressor, but they are commonly involved in cooling complaints and diagnostics:

Why it matters

Replacing a compressor or sealed-system component is a major repair. Doing the quick airflow, frost, and start checks first prevents replacing expensive parts when the real issue is a fan, defrost problem, or restricted airflow.

Last updated: February 2026

Most common symptoms to help you fix your freestanding freezers

Choose a symptom to see related freezer repairs.

Main causes: dirty condenser coils, condenser fan failure, dirty bottom front grill, leaky door or lid gasket…

Main causes: lack of power, control system failure, broken compressor start relay, locked up compressor, compressor moto…

Main causes: leaky door or lid gasket, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, defrost control failure, …

Main causes: lack of power, bad compressor, refrigerant leak, bad thermistor, defrost system failure, dirty condenser co…

Main causes: damaged door or lid gasket, cracked cabinet liner, bad defrost bi-metal thermostat, broken defrost heater, …

Main causes: burned out light bulb, bad door or lid switch, faulty LED light board, wiring failure, control system failu…

Main causes: compressor failure, no refrigerant, faulty sensor, control failure, broken defrost heater, bad defrost bi-m…

Main causes: excessive frost, bad defrost heater, bad defrost bi-metal, control system failure, low refrigerant charge, …

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