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Rikon 10-325 band saw

Rikon 10-325 band saw Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Rikon 10-325 band saw, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 10-325 Power Tools

  • Band Saw Bushing for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-JL20042002

    Band Saw Bushing

    Part #1-JL20042002

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Rikon Owner's Manual for Rikon 10-325 - Part 10-325M3

    Main assy diagram

    Rikon Owner's Manual

    Part #10-325M3

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Rikon Relief Nut for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-JL20072102

    Main assy diagram

    Rikon Relief Nut

    Part #1-JL20072102

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Roll Pin for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-PIN3X18GB879B

    Table diagram

    Roll Pin

    Part #1-PIN3X18GB879B

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Knob Cap for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-JL20024001-001S

    Knob Cap

    Part #1-JL20024001-001S

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Tens Wheel for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-JL20014002A

    Main assy diagram

    Tens Wheel

    Part #1-JL20014002A

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Retaining Ring for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-CLP28GB893D1B

    Main assy diagram

    Retaining Ring

    Part #1-CLP28GB893D1B

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Bushing for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-JL26010007

    Main assy diagram

    Bushing

    Part #1-JL26010007

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Rivet 3x7 for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-RVT3X7GB12618A

    Rivet 3x7

    Part #1-RVT3X7GB12618A

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Leaf Spring for Rikon 10-325 - Part 1-JL22010008

    Main assy diagram

    Leaf Spring

    Part #1-JL22010008

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Rikon Band Saw 10-325 FAQs

The 3-tooth rule means you should choose a band saw blade so at least three teeth are in the cut at all times. On a Rikon 10-325 band saw, this helps prevent tooth breakage and rough cutting by keeping the blade supported while still leaving enough gullet space to clear sawdust or chips.

How to use the rule to pick TPI

Match the blade’s teeth-per-inch (TPI) to your material thickness so 3 or more teeth contact the work.

  • Measure the material thickness at the cut line
  • Aim for 3 to 6 teeth engaged for most cuts
  • Use higher TPI for thin stock, tubing, and sheet goods
  • Use lower TPI for thick stock and fast ripping
  • If the cut burns, wanders, or chatters, re-check TPI and blade tension
Quick TPI guide (rule-of-thumb)

Use this as a starting point; then fine-tune tracking, guides, and feed rate.

Material thickness Typical blade choice What you’ll notice if it’s wrong
1/8 to 1/4 in. 14 to 24 TPI Too low TPI strips teeth or snags
1/4 to 1 in. 6 to 10 TPI Too high TPI packs gullets, cuts slow
1 to 3 in. 3 to 6 TPI Too high TPI overheats and drifts
Why it matters

When fewer than three teeth are engaged, each tooth takes too much load and can chip or grab the work. When too many teeth are engaged, the gullets cannot clear debris, so the blade runs hot, cuts slowly, and can start drifting.

Related setup checks that improve cut quality

If you are following the 3-tooth rule and the saw still struggles, these adjustments usually make the difference:

  • Set blade tension to the range recommended in the owner's manual
  • Adjust upper and lower blade guides close to the blade without pinching
  • Confirm blade tracking is centered on the wheels
  • Reduce feed pressure; let the teeth do the work
  • Replace dull blades (dull blades mimic “wrong TPI” symptoms)

For step-by-step blade replacement and setup basics, use our guide: how to replace a band saw blade.

Last updated: February 2026

For a 10-inch band saw, blade size is defined by length, width, and tooth count (TPI); the correct blade length depends on the exact saw model. For your Rikon 10-325, use the blade length listed in the 10-325 owner's manual so the blade tracks correctly on the wheels and the tension system works as designed.

How to choose the right blade size

Use these specs together (not just “10-inch band saw”):

  • Blade length: must match your saw’s wheel spacing and tension range
  • Blade width: narrower for tight curves, wider for straighter resaw cuts
  • TPI (teeth per inch): fewer teeth for thick stock, more teeth for thin stock and smoother cuts
  • Kerf and set: affects cut speed and finish
  • Material type: wood, plastic, or non-ferrous metal (use the blade designed for it)
Typical blade width and TPI guidelines (woodworking)

These are common starting points for many 10-inch class band saws:

What you’re doing Typical blade width Typical TPI range What you’ll notice
Tight curves 1/8 in to 1/4 in 6 to 10 TPI Easier turning, slower feed
General cutting 1/4 in to 3/8 in 6 to 10 TPI Balanced speed and finish
Straight cuts, light resaw 3/8 in to 1/2 in 3 to 6 TPI Straighter tracking, faster feed
Quick checks before you buy

These steps prevent the two most common issues: wrong length and poor tracking.

  • Confirm the exact blade length in the 10-325 owner's manual
  • Match blade width to your cut type (curves vs. straight cuts)
  • Pick TPI based on thickness (thicker stock needs fewer teeth)
  • Inspect your tires and guides; worn parts can make a new blade wander
  • After installing, set tracking and tension, then adjust blade guides
Why it matters

A blade that is even slightly off in length can be hard to tension properly, can slip off the wheel, or can cause drift and rough cuts. Correct length plus proper tracking and guide adjustment is what makes your Rikon 10-325 cut straight and smoothly.

If your saw is cutting slowly or drifting after you install the correct blade, use our troubleshooting steps in band saw not cutting straight or band saw cutting slowly.

Last updated: February 2026

Your Rikon band saw’s model number is typically printed on the machine’s identification label (nameplate). On the Rikon 10-325, check the frame or cabinet area near the motor, lower wheel door, or the back side of the saw; match what you find to the format shown in the [10-325 owner's manual].

Where to look on the saw

Check these common nameplate locations (use a flashlight and wipe off dust):

  • Inside the lower wheel door on the cabinet/frame
  • On the rear of the saw frame or cabinet
  • Near the motor mount area
  • Along the base or stand (if your saw is mounted)
  • Near the power switch box (less common)
What the label looks like

Most band saw ID labels include several fields. Use the model number field for parts lookup.

Label field What it means What to use for parts
Model The saw’s model identifier Use this (example: 10-325)
Serial Unique production number Not required for most parts
Electrical Voltage/amps/Hz Helpful for wiring and motor checks
Tips to avoid mix-ups

Model numbers can be confused with serial numbers or blade specs. Use these checks:

  • The model number is usually shorter and may include dashes (like 10-325).
  • A serial number is often longer and may include letters plus many digits.
  • Blade length, width, and TPI are not the model number.
  • If the label is damaged, compare your saw’s major features (frame style, wheel door layout, fence style) to the diagrams in the manual.
Why it matters

Using the exact model number (10-325) ensures you get the correct Rikon band saw parts and diagrams; small model variations can change items like the switch, tires, guides, and drive components.

Last updated: March 2026

Symptoms for band saws

Choose a symptom to see related band saw repairs.

Main causes: dull blade, using the wrong type of blade, feeding work piece to quickly, loose blade tension…

Main causes: broken saw blade, bad drive belt, damaged rubber tire…

Main causes: damaged rubber tire, worn wheel bearings, loose blade tension, dull saw blade…

Main causes: dull blade, improper feeding, loose blade tension, not using a work piece guide…

Main causes: dull blade, using the wrong type of blade, weak drive motor…

Main causes: angle indicator needs adjustment, dull blade…

Main causes: lack of electrical power, broken power cord, bad on/off switch, faulty drive motor…

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These step-by-step repair guides will help you safely fix what’s broken on your band saw.

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How to replace a band saw on-off switch

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Repair time and Difficulty

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How to replace a band saw drive belt

How to replace a band saw drive belt

If the motor runs but the blade doesn't move, it could be that the drive belt is broken. Here's how to replace it.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less
How to replace a band saw blade

How to replace a band saw blade

If the saw blade is dull or damaged and isn't cutting cleanly, replace the blade following these steps.…

Repair time and Difficulty

 15 minutes or less

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