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Craftsman 33525982 drill press stand

Craftsman 33525982 drill press stand Parts

Here are the diagrams and repair parts for Craftsman 33525982 drill press stand, as well as links to manuals and error code tables, if available.

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Browse Parts for 33525982 Power Tools

  • Collar for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5024

    Unit parts diagram

    Collar

    Part #5024

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Gear Housing Cover for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5008-1

    Unit parts diagram

    Gear Housing Cover

    Part #5008-1

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Head Hsng for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5004-1

    Unit parts diagram

    Head Hsng

    Part #5004-1

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Drill Rack for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5005-5

    Unit parts diagram

    Drill Rack

    Part #5005-5

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Column for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5003

    Unit parts diagram

    Column

    Part #5003

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Depth Shaft for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5023

    Unit parts diagram

    Depth Shaft

    Part #5023

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Drill Housing for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5021-3

    Unit parts diagram

    Drill Housing

    Part #5021-3

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Spring for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5014

    Unit parts diagram

    Spring

    Part #5014

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Spacer for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5020

    Unit parts diagram

    Spacer

    Part #5020

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

  • Pinion Sprng for Craftsman 33525982 - Part 5007

    Unit parts diagram

    Pinion Sprng

    Part #5007

    The manufacturer no longer makes this part, and there's no substitute part

Craftsman Drill Press Stand 33525982 FAQs

The 4-inch rule for a drill press is a safety best practice: we keep our hands and fingers at least 4 inches away from the rotating drill bit and cutting area. On a Craftsman drill press stand model 33525982, this helps prevent slips, grabs, and contact injuries.

What the rule means in real use

Use the rule any time the bit is spinning or the workpiece could shift.

  • Keep hands 4 inches or more from the bit, chuck, and rotating work
  • Clamp the workpiece; do not “hand-hold” small stock
  • Use a vise or drill press clamps for round, short, or narrow pieces
  • Remove the chuck key before turning the tool on
  • Stop the spindle completely before clearing chips or measuring
How to keep your hands 4 inches away

These habits make the 4-inch rule easy to follow:

  • Position a drill press vise so your hands stay on the vise handle, not near the bit
  • Use a scrap backer board to reduce tear-out and sudden grabbing
  • Set the table height so you are not reaching under the bit
  • Use a brush or chip hook to clear swarf (never your fingers)
  • Tie back hair, avoid gloves near rotating parts, and secure loose sleeves
Quick guide: safer holding methods
Task Risk if hand-held Better option
Small parts drilling Part spins and pulls fingers in Vise + clamp
Round stock drilling Stock rolls and “catches” V-block in a vise
Thin sheet drilling Sheet lifts and cuts hands Clamp to backer board
Why it matters

A drill bit can grab the workpiece instantly, especially with larger bits, dull bits, or high feed pressure. Keeping a 4-inch buffer and using clamps reduces the chance of the workpiece spinning, breaking bits, and causing hand injuries.

Related DIY help

For general electrical safety checks on powered tools and cords, we use how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026

The slots on the base of a Craftsman drill press stand model 33525982 are clamping and mounting slots (often T-slots). We use them to bolt the drill press down to a bench or to clamp large or awkward workpieces directly to the base when the table is moved out of the way.

What you can do with the base slots
  • Bolt the drill press to a stand or bench for stability and reduced vibration.
  • Clamp a workpiece to the base when it is too tall or wide for the table.
  • Use step blocks and strap clamps to hold irregular shapes securely.
  • Mount a drill press vise or fixture plate (when the table is removed or swung aside).
  • Add stops or jigs for repeatable hole spacing.
Common setups (quick comparison)
Setup When it helps What you gain
Bolting the base down Any drilling, especially larger bits Less walking, less chatter, better accuracy
Clamping to the base Tall work, long stock, table clearance issues More vertical clearance under the chuck
Fixture plate on base Repetitive drilling Faster positioning and consistent results
Why it matters

Using the base slots correctly improves safety and accuracy. A secured drill press and a firmly clamped workpiece reduce spinning, grabbing, and bit breakage, which also helps protect the quill, chuck, and bearings.

Safety and best practices
  • Unplug the drill press before changing setups, bits, or clamps.
  • Keep clamps and bolt heads clear of the bit path and rotating chuck.
  • Use a backing board under the workpiece to reduce tear-out.
  • Clamp the work; do not hold it by hand.
  • If the workpiece rocks, shim it flat before tightening clamps.

For general DIY safety and setup habits that apply to shop tools, we recommend reviewing are diy appliance repairs safe.

Last updated: February 2026

A good horsepower (HP) for a drill press depends on the hole size, material, and bit type you plan to use. For most home-shop drilling on wood and light metal, we recommend about 1/2 to 3/4 HP; for frequent larger holes in steel, 1 to 1-1/2 HP is the practical step up.

Quick horsepower guide (what we recommend)
  • 1/4 to 1/3 HP: light-duty work (small bits, softwood, plastics)
  • 1/2 HP: general DIY drilling; good all-around choice for most users
  • 3/4 HP: better torque for larger bits, Forstner bits, hole saws, and mild steel
  • 1 to 1-1/2 HP: frequent metal drilling, larger diameters, tougher alloys
  • 2+ HP: heavy-duty production work; often paired with industrial machines
What matters more than HP (especially on a stand setup)

Because the Craftsman 33525982 is a drill press stand, the “right HP” is really about the drill you mount and how you use it. These factors often matter as much as motor size:

  • Low-speed capability (torque comes from slower RPM with the right bit)
  • Sharp bits (dull bits make any motor feel underpowered)
  • Proper feed pressure (steady pressure, no forcing)
  • Workholding (vise or clamps to prevent grabbing and spinning)
  • Bit choice (step bits, brad-point, Forstner, hole saws all load differently)
Simple selection table
Your typical work Recommended HP Notes
Small holes in wood/plastic 1/4 to 1/3 Prioritize speed control and sharp bits
General DIY (wood, aluminum, light steel) 1/2 to 3/4 Best balance of power and control
Larger holes in steel, frequent use 1 to 1-1/2 Choose lower RPM options and quality bits
Why it matters

Choosing enough HP helps prevent stalling, overheating, and rough holes. Just as important, matching speed and bit type to the material reduces grabbing and improves accuracy, which is critical on any drill press stand.

Related DIY reading

Last updated: February 2026

On the Craftsman 33525982 drill press stand, spindle repair typically means removing the quill assembly, inspecting the spindle and bearings, then replacing worn bearings or the spindle so the chuck runs true again. This job requires careful alignment and safe handling of press-fit parts.

Before you start (safety and setup)
  • Unplug the drill press and remove the chuck and bit.
  • Lower the table or remove it for working room.
  • Mark the depth stop and return spring housing positions so you can reassemble consistently.
  • Take photos as you go; small washers and spacers must go back in the same order.
  • If the spindle is bent or the taper is damaged, plan on replacing the spindle, not just the bearings.
Spindle repair steps (typical process)
  1. Remove the belt cover and release belt tension; slip the belt off the pulleys.
  2. Remove the return spring tension (control the spring so it does not snap back).
  3. Remove the quill retaining hardware (often a retaining ring or collar, depending on design).
  4. Slide the quill out of the head.
  5. Separate the spindle from the quill (usually by driving the spindle out with a soft mallet and proper support).
  6. Remove and replace spindle bearings (use an arbor press or bearing puller as needed).
  7. Reinstall the spindle into the quill, reinstall the quill, then reset spring tension and belt tension.
What to inspect while it’s apart
  • Bearings: roughness, play, noise, heat discoloration
  • Spindle taper: scoring, rust, wobble at the chuck mount
  • Quill bore: wear or galling that causes side-to-side movement
  • Pulley and keyway: looseness that mimics spindle wobble
Quick symptom-to-cause guide
Symptom Most common cause Typical fix
Chuck wobble bent spindle or worn bearings replace spindle and/or bearings
Grinding noise failing bearings replace bearings
Quill won’t return return spring mis-set or damaged reset/replace spring
Runout changes with belt tension pulley/belt issue replace belt or tighten pulley
Why it matters

A worn spindle or bearing set increases runout, overheats the quill, and makes accurate drilling difficult. Fixing the spindle restores smooth feed, safer operation, and cleaner holes in wood or metal.

For tool and test basics that help during teardown and reassembly, we recommend must have tools for appliance repair.

Last updated: February 2026

The Craftsman 33525982 listing is for a drill press stand/parts model, and the assembled weight depends on the exact drill press configuration (bench vs. floor style, motor size, and castings). Most drill presses with a stand fall in a broad 50 to 200 lb range; weigh your unit for an exact number.

Best way to get the exact weight (at home)

Use one of these methods to get a reliable number for moving, shipping, or a lift gate.

  • Bathroom scale method: weigh yourself, then weigh yourself holding a removed component; subtract.
  • Component method: remove the head, table, and base (if possible) and weigh each piece separately.
  • Hanging scale method: sling one component at a time and lift just enough to read the scale.
  • Crate method: if it is boxed, weigh the boxed unit, then subtract packaging weight.
Typical weight ranges (planning numbers)

Use these ranges for planning only; your exact weight depends on whether your setup is benchtop or floor-standing.

Drill press type Typical assembled weight What drives the weight
Benchtop drill press 40 to 90 lb Smaller base and motor
Floor drill press with stand 90 to 200 lb Larger base/column and heavier head
Safe moving and setup tips

Weight affects tipping risk and injury risk, especially with a top-heavy head and column.

  • Plan on two-person lifting for the head/motor assembly.
  • Remove the table and head first to reduce top-heavy tipping.
  • Keep the column upright during transport.
  • Use a dolly/hand truck and secure the load with straps.
  • Set the base on a level surface and tighten all fasteners before use.
Why it matters

Knowing the real weight helps you choose the right moving method, prevents tip-overs, and improves stability and drilling accuracy once installed.

If you need to confirm you are matching parts to the correct Craftsman model number, use how to find your appliance model number (and what it means for parts).

Last updated: February 2026

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