Craftsman 35122676 belt & disc sander Parts

Yes. On the Craftsman 35122676 belt and disc sander, you can restore worn hook-and-loop (often called “Velcro”) on the disc sanding surface by replacing the hook-and-loop disc pad (if it’s a separate pad) or by resurfacing the disc with a new hook-and-loop layer so sanding discs grip correctly again.

What to check on the 35122676 before you buy anything

This model is a belt and disc sander, so focus on the disc side when you’re talking about hook-and-loop.

• Confirm you’re working on the disc platen (not the 1 x 30 belt area)
• Verify your sanding discs are hook-and-loop, not PSA (peel-and-stick)
• Check whether the hook surface is a separate pad or bonded to the disc
• Inspect for wobble/runout; fix looseness before resurfacing
• Note any dust hole pattern your discs require

Two correct ways to replace the hook-and-loop surface

Repair method	Use this when	Result
Replace the disc pad/face	The hook layer is a distinct pad or face you can remove	Like-new grip with the correct thickness and balance
Resurface the disc	The hook layer is bonded and not meant to separate cleanly	Restores grip if the disc face stays flat and true

Safe, practical steps

• Unplug the sander.
• Remove the sanding disc and inspect the disc face for smooth, melted, or missing hooks.
• If replacing a pad: remove fasteners or release the pad as designed, then install the new pad squarely.
• If resurfacing: strip loose hook material and adhesive, clean the face, then apply a new hook-and-loop layer carefully to avoid bubbles.
• Hand-spin the disc to confirm it runs true; then test-run briefly.

Why it matters

A worn hook-and-loop surface lets discs slip, chatter, or fly off. Restoring the disc face improves finish quality, reduces heat buildup, and helps the sander run smoother.

To make sure you’re matching the correct replacement to Craftsman model 35122676, use how to find your appliance model number (and what it means for parts).

Last updated: February 2026

A 4x36 belt sander can work for knife making, especially for profiling, rough bevels, and handle shaping, but it is slower and less versatile than a 2x72 grinder. For a Craftsman 35122676 belt & disc sander, the biggest limits are belt speed, belt tracking, and platen support.

What a 4x36 does well (and where it struggles)

Good uses

• Rough shaping and profiling blanks before heat treat
• Flattening scales and shaping handles
• Cleaning forge scale and smoothing welds
• Basic bevel grinding with light pressure

Common limitations

• Slower stock removal than a typical 2x72 setup
• Shorter belt length runs hotter and loads faster
• Smaller contact area makes it easier to round edges unintentionally
• Tracking and platen flatness can limit how crisp your bevels look

How to get better knife-grinding results on a 4x36

• Use fresh, coarse belts (36 to 60 grit) for roughing; switch to 80 to 120 for refining
• Keep pressure light and let the abrasive cut; heavy pressure overheats the steel
• Quench often (water for rough shaping before heat treat); stop if the edge gets too hot to touch
• Dress or replace the platen backing if it is grooved; a flat platen helps keep bevels even
• Check belt tracking and tension before every session

Belt choice quick guide

Task	Typical grit range	What to watch for
Profiling and heavy removal	36 to 60	Heat buildup, belt loading
Bevel shaping	60 to 120	Rounding the plunge line
Handle shaping	80 to 220	Burning wood/resin
Pre-finish (not mirror)	220 to 400	Belt glazing

Why it matters

Knife grinding is mostly about controlling heat and keeping surfaces flat. A 4x36 can absolutely produce usable blades, but the shorter belt and typical lower belt speed mean you spend more time grinding and more time managing heat.

Related DIY help

If you are troubleshooting power, switches, or wiring on your sander, use how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video to safely check continuity and voltage-related issues.

Last updated: February 2026

A Craftsman belt and disc sander like model 35122676 is built from a drive system (motor and shafts), sanding assemblies (belt and disc hardware), tracking/tension parts, guards, and electrical controls. The exact mix varies by design, but these are the core components you will see on most sanders.

Common sander parts you will find

• Motor (drives the belt and disc)
• Drive belt or direct-drive coupling (transfers power to the sanding assemblies)
• Sanding belt assembly (platen, rollers, tracking/tension mechanism)
• Sanding disc assembly (disc plate, hub, disc guard)
• Bearings and bushings (support rotating shafts and rollers)
• Switch and power cord (on/off control and power delivery)
• Dust collection parts (dust port, bag, or hose connection)

How the main assemblies work together

Assembly	What it includes	What it affects when it fails
Drive system	Motor, shafts, bearings, drive belt	No start, weak power, squeal, overheating
Belt sanding system	Rollers, platen, tracking/tension parts	Belt won’t track, belt slips, uneven sanding
Disc sanding system	Disc plate/hub, guard, table alignment	Vibration, wobble, poor squareness
Electrical system	Switch, cord, internal wiring	Intermittent power, won’t turn on

Why it matters

Knowing the major parts helps you troubleshoot faster. For example, a belt that walks off the rollers points to tracking/tension parts, while a burning smell or loss of torque points to the motor, bearings, or drive belt.

Quick troubleshooting tips (before buying parts)

• Unplug the sander and spin the rollers/disc by hand; roughness usually indicates worn bearings.
• Check belt tracking and tension; a loose belt often slips and overheats.
• Inspect the power cord for cuts and the switch for a “mushy” feel.
• Clear dust buildup around vents and guards; packed dust can cause overheating.
• If you suspect an electrical issue, test safely with a meter using how to use a multimeter to test electrical parts video.

Last updated: February 2026