White-Westinghouse Electric cooktop Parts — Browse All Models

How to replace a ceramic glass top on your White-Westinghouse electric cooktop

• Shut off the house circuit breakers for the cooktop or unplug the cooktop to disconnect electrical power.
• Remove the screws from the brackets that hold the cooktop in the counter. Carefully lift the cooktop up and set it on the counter.
• Remove the screws that secure the glass top to the burner box. Lift the glass top up slightly and unplug the wire harness connection on the user interface controls. Lift the cooktop off of the burner box and discard it.
• Position the new glass top on the burner box and plug in the user interface control wire harness. Replace the screws to secure the glass top to the burner box.
• Lower the cooktop into the counter. Reinstall the mounting bracket screws.
• Turn on the electric power to the cooktop.

Troubleshooting your White-Westinghouse electric cooktop when a surface element doesn't heat

On a cooktop that uses surface element switches to control the elements, a failed surface element switch can prevent the surface element from heating. On electronically-controlled cooktops, a failed surface element relay on the electronic control board that controls surface elements can keep a surface element from heating.

No matter which type of control your cooktop uses, a broken surface element won't heat. If your cooktop uses coil surface elements, examine the element that isn't heating and replace the coil element if you see a cracked or broken coil. Radiant surface elements are harder to check for damage because they're under the glass cooktop. Unplug the cooktop and remove the burner box to access and check a radiant surface element that isn't heating. Replace the surface element if you see a break in the ribbon element.

A radiant surface element has a limiter switch that cycles the radiant element off to protect the ceramic glass cooktop from overheating. A failed limiter switch won't allow the radiant element to heat. Disconnect electric power to the cooktop and check for continuity through the limiter switch using a multimeter. You should measure near 0-ohms of resistance through the limiter switch indicating that the switch is allowing current to flow through the element. If you measure OL or "open load" indicating that the switch isn't allowing current to flow through the element, then the limiter switch has failed. The limiter switch is often included with a radiant element but not always. Replace the limiter switch if it's a separate part and it's preventing the radiant surface element from heating. If the limiter isn't available as a separate part, replace the radiant surface element.